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Front Camber is at about -2 up front, rear the same. Have a set of SPC Camber arms that I might use to hit that number, and go in for a better alignment with the exact specs I want. Just got these tires, probably should have gotten at least 235s looking back on it. Wheels won't hold much...

Car did really well at the last event - I was only like 1.5 seconds behind my buddy who was .5 a second behind FTD for the day in his 2022 GR86. Notes to consider: Tires - Falken Rt660s were awesome, super pleased with the performance and it seems like just about everyone is running them...

9k front and rear

They honestly ride just as nice on the street as my old CS Shock/Eibach spring kit did, but without that wallowing feel from the springs. Very pleased so far, and quality is top notch.

Also, I put yet another valve cover gasket on with new O-rings from Adapted Performance, followed all his instructions, torqued exactly to spec, and still the gasket wants to explode out the timing cover side. Very disappointed, and will be getting Corksport VC hardware probably end of summer...

Been a while, here's an update of where I'm at: Picture from a buddy of my last Danville trip - next one coming June 25-26. Picked up a set of Fortune Autos (Not sure if 500 or 510s) from a Gen2 with less than 10k miles on them. Had to use washers to make the rear fit in the perch...

If you're going to run a Cobb tune, keep it on Stage 0, Cobb tunes are known hot trash. But really, since you've already sprung the $400+ for a Cobb AP, you should look at a Freektune OTS+ map. Safer, and you get a couple revisions for Justin to tweak and make sure your car is running well...

If you were tuned by PD or Freek, that's probably accurate.

WOT in 6th is a good way to bend a rod/blow the motor, so don't do that. The motor will naturally pull timing via knock in normal driving conditions for fuel efficiency as I understand it, which is totally normal. Unless you are in boost/at WOT, knock is not worth paying attention to.

I might be retarded, but on my current speed and my previous speed, every time I've done a coolant drain/refill, a stubborn bubble has gotten stuck and required multiple heat up/cool down cycles to work it out. Coolant vacuum thingy from HF, boom easy done no bubbles.

fax

These coolant systems have always been a nightmare for me to burp. I found a vacuum filler at harbor freight that worked wonders to get it totally air free.

Fantastic weekend in Danville, VA at the Autocross event there. Buddy who just sold his Speed3 waiting on a GR86 order co-drove, so the car was put through 10 runs per day, 20 runs total for the weekend. Got beaten in my own car on Saturday, got the one-up on Sunday. Car did fantastic - I...

May be true, but he over-spent by about $100, save money and peace of mind.

I would return that and get an OEM sensor - 2010-2013 Mazda 3 Oxygen Sensor L3CE-18-8G1 | RealMazdaParts.com

To add to this, was it an OEM O2 sensor?

Okay so things that pop out to me right away- -Boost leak test - have you done it? -LTFT - what is it at idle fully warmed up? What is it under normal driving conditions when the car is fully warmed up? -Don't get try to romp on it until Justin takes a look at some of your logs if you have...

KBB doesn't reflect the used market. If the car is in pretty good cosmetic condition, and you have a solid compression test, with that mileage you can probably get closer to 8k for it. A VVT job at a shop shouldn't cost more than $1500 and does not require engine out, those shops are high (in...

Samesies - I don't know what it is about this VC gasket, but I hate everything about it. Curious to see what your gasket looks like, mine looked like (and probably now that I'm redoing it yet again) a cat chewed on it all around

Fog light plug is loose, flickers and goes off when I jiggle the wire. Anyone know where to get a replacement plug I could snap in? Question: I keep blowing out my valve cover gasket, in a pretty catastrophic way, as seen in the pics below: I am using the AP valve cover kit, and...