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Cost of a reman'd unit is $150 - $200 CAD...cost of on replacement injector seal is $200 USD with 3 spares. This is an easy decision for me. I'll replace the injector...dang it!

Okay...so are you thinking I should swap that one out? I don't mind paying for the peace of mind. At 127,000 miles I am NEVER doing these again, and I'm certainly not keen to pay another $200 for an set of four injector seals if I need to replace it. Injector guy thinks it's just cosmetic...

@Awafrican and @Enki, I've uploaded a better photo. Injector guy thinks it should be okay, but I'd love a third opinion. I'm willing to buy one of the remanufactured units from Rock Auto if needed. EDIT: my local injector guy has a couple spares, so no need to order from across the border.

So, as you guys have probably figured out by now, my injector removal was a disaster. I've damaged one of the injectors plastic sleeve and was hoping you guys could tell me if it is still salvageable. It was being an absolute idiot and tried prying up on the sharp edge corner where the crows...

+10 for Tekton...they are amazing tools.

Thank you guys very much for all the advice. I'll get a good socket for it...hopefully master crap does better than Princess Auto. Why are those bolts so tight? I didn't think the torque spec was high on the.. Is it just the heat cycling?

Nice, I just so happen to have some lying around. So that'll be perfect. EDIT: I'm checking to see if Stratified can do me a solid by sending me a revision to the last OTS map they sold me for the test pipe and TMIC I installed last summer. I want to see if they can revise the map to account...

This may be a stupid question, but should I clean my valves first and then pull the injectors? Reason I ask, is because I would want to avoid getting anything inside the cylinder through the injector port. Or should I just plug and tape off the holes? On a compression stroke, this could break...

Hey guys, I was curious you could give me some points on pulling the fuel rail and injectors. I'll be cleaning my intake valves (myself, for the first time) and installing a new PCV and my OCC. Since the last time I had the injectors cleaned was almost 60,000 miles ago, I figure it's time...

And what about me? I spouted off with a bunch of useless crap ideas. I mean, that has to be worth a crumb or sloppy seconds or thirds. If there's air coming out of my mouth, it might as well be hot. LOL :p

So glad you figured it out!!! Was it an aftermarket or OEM cam sensor? May help a guy or gal out in the future to avoid the particular brand you bought.

Sorry I'm not much help here; I wish you luck. Having owned one BMW before, I can sense the amount of frustration you're having with those strong words, lol. The only other things I can think of: 1) HPFP issue(s) 2) Possibly an aftermarket car starter or immobilizer device malfunction that is...

Also check that you didnt leave your VTCS unplugged, which may be why you're having better luck with starting by choking the air intake. EDIT: I agree...i was definitely grasping at straws with this one. Since you're smelling fuel under the hood, maybe make sure you didnt unclip or damage one...

You mentioned it catches sometimes when you're trying to start the car...do you mean it occasionally fires every once in a while? If not, do you smell any unburned fuel out of the exhaust or cylinders when you pull the plugs? I'm curious if you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber.

What spark plugs did you use and have they been gapped correctly? Pictures of your engine bay would also be super helpful, just in case there is something you may have missed. EDIT: basically, pictures of all the harnesses, etc. Have you checked to ensure you battery is fully charged...it's...

@Enki, any chance he could have fouled his plugs by cranking the engine with no start?

Can you pull the TMIC (if you have one...sorry, can't see your mods or signature using the phone) and take some pictures of everything for us? To add to what @Awafrican posted, check each and every connector you disconnected and reconnected to ensure it is fully connected. I once had a rough...

I found a VOA for Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 on BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pp-euro-5w40-sn-plus-formulation-voa.322868/ Based on the goals of this thread, this oil is good in calcium, sodium and zinc levels, but low on moly. To clarify, I wasn't recommending the...

I have been running Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40, which has an API SP and ACEA B3/C4 rating. To be honest, I just assumed it was the Pennzoil a lot of people recommended. It does not have the Dexos certification, but I don't see this oil harming anything on my car (I hope). I should keep my...

After spending all that money, just careful about watching relative humidity in your garage. I live in the snow belt that is Canada and was so excited once I had my garage. Well, in the winter, when the car brought in snow and salt, the humidity would peak at greater than 80%. Pretty sure...