Injector Seal Replacement Question

Duey1083

Duey1083

Greenie N00B Member
Hey guys,

I was curious you could give me some points on pulling the fuel rail and injectors. I'll be cleaning my intake valves (myself, for the first time) and installing a new PCV and my OCC.

Since the last time I had the injectors cleaned was almost 60,000 miles ago, I figure it's time again.

So, as it stands, I pulled the fuse/relay for the fuel pump, started the car and let it die. I'm just tearing into it to remove the intake manifold.

As for the fuel rail, are there any techniques to get it removed from the injectors? Are there any other difficult parts to remove? Please note, I'll be doing this myself...hopefully it's possible.

For the injectors crows feet, is the torx bit size a T-40?

I also purchased the Overspeed seals this time...do they click into place when installed on the injector, or are they kind of loose and end up being a compression fit when I torque the injectors down.

Last question about media blasting the valves; is it necessary to change the oil afterwards? I'm only 1500 miles into my interval.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
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overspeed Injector seals slide on just like the CS ones: https://corksport.com/support/instructions/GEN-6-991-WEB.pdf as usual their install instructions are good.

get the whole fuel rail disconnected then try and pull out straight you may need to wiggle it a little, once it's off check for any seals left behind as the top blue seals may stay.

T40 for the crow feet yes, make sure those torx holes are clean, once I get the torx bit in I give it a tap to make sure its fully seated then you can unbolt. when you go to reinstall the fuel rail it must be straight and parallel, sometimes a SMALL touch of engine oil on the top seal can help it slide in.
 
Good info Awafrican! The only thing I would add, is oil the inside of the fuel rail after cleaning. I did mine last week, and it tried to hang up there, with only oiling the o-ring.
I also take a piece of Scotchbright pad, and tape it around a 3/8" long extension. Use this to clean the injector seat/bore. Use it like a valve lapped, it'll clean it up nice!
 
This may be a stupid question, but should I clean my valves first and then pull the injectors?

Reason I ask, is because I would want to avoid getting anything inside the cylinder through the injector port.

Or should I just plug and tape off the holes? On a compression stroke, this could break the tape or whatever away from the head and unseal it.
 
I would, always best to keep more of the engine sealed, and especially the fuel system! There's no dumb questions....
 
If they're out getting cleaned just tape of the Injector port no big deal. I personally like using metal duct tape because it doesn't rip apart when removing it.
 
Awafrican said:
If they're out getting cleaned just tape of the Injector port no big deal. I personally like using metal duct tape because it doesn't rip apart when removing it.
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Nice, I just so happen to have some lying around. So that'll be perfect.

EDIT: I'm checking to see if Stratified can do me a solid by sending me a revision to the last OTS map they sold me for the test pipe and TMIC I installed last summer. I want to see if they can revise the map to account for the 3 bar MAP sensor install.

I'd rather do it now when the manifold is off the car.
 
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Awafrican covered it already, but the hardest thing is getting those torx bolts off. I cannot stress enough how important it is to have a good torx socket to get this done properly. I went through several cheap ones from various kits before I finally bought one from Autozone that was close to $10 for just the single socket. I gave it a few love taps with a hammer to get it fully seated, grabbed my breaker bar (yes, I used a breaker bar, bitch is tight) and when using the proper tools and technique the bolts came right off.
 
Thank you guys very much for all the advice. I'll get a good socket for it...hopefully master crap does better than Princess Auto.

Why are those bolts so tight? I didn't think the torque spec was high on the.. Is it just the heat cycling?
 
Torque specs are all in the CS how too. Not very high like 18ftlbs iirc.

Princess Auto stuff is better than mastercraft on my experience however the master craft maximum stuff if better. I've had decent success with Tekton as far as cheap tools go
 
Awafrican said:
Torque specs are all in the CS how too. Not very high like 18ftlbs iirc.

Princess Auto stuff is better than mastercraft on my experience however the master craft maximum stuff if better. I've had decent success with Tekton as far as cheap tools go
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+10 for Tekton...they are amazing tools.
 
So, as you guys have probably figured out by now, my injector removal was a disaster.

I've damaged one of the injectors plastic sleeve and was hoping you guys could tell me if it is still salvageable. It was being an absolute idiot and tried prying up on the sharp edge corner where the crows foot surrounds.

The break in the plastic goes right through and I can see the metal sub-surface. Cam anyone comment if this would impact the function of the injector?

If so, has anyone purchased any of the remanufactured units from Rock Auto before? Are they generally okay value?

The dealership wants $462 CAD per injector.

Can I replace just the damaged one(s) and have them flow tested together?
 

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yeah you can just replace one and be good to go if they're all tested. you may be able to pull one form a junk yard or see if they have on pulled. always guys on facebook selling used injectors

looks like it's just the plastic that's a little banged up flow test would be the real tell as to how that injector is doing.
 
@Awafrican and @Enki, I've uploaded a better photo.

Injector guy thinks it should be okay, but I'd love a third opinion.

I'm willing to buy one of the remanufactured units from Rock Auto if needed.

EDIT: my local injector guy has a couple spares, so no need to order from across the border.
 
I think it'll be okay worth having the injector dude test it and see what it does, just looks like the edge is a little damaged
 
Injectors are expensive; worst case a break like that could result in misfiring or a burned out injector if air gets to the coil (IIRC it takes 700w to fire an injector so coil exposure to oxygen could be detrimental to life).
 
Okay...so are you thinking I should swap that one out?

I don't mind paying for the peace of mind. At 127,000 miles I am NEVER doing these again, and I'm certainly not keen to pay another $200 for an set of four injector seals if I need to replace it.

Injector guy thinks it's just cosmetic, but you raised good points about the coil and electrical doo-dads.
 
Enki said:
I'm saying if you don't you should have a replacement on hand just in case.
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Cost of a reman'd unit is $150 - $200 CAD...cost of on replacement injector seal is $200 USD with 3 spares.

This is an easy decision for me. I'll replace the injector...dang it!
 
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