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I have Autotechs installed right now. Doesn't look too bad that way. For some reason I didnt see the box end wrench on that photo. Smart! @Enki, ah I see...after removing the collar, you can pull the internals and spring out as one assembly and clean like that. Is it okay to clean using...

This was a super handy thread. Thanks @Enki and @Awafrican for the info and links. I'd struggle a bit with releasing those retainer clips on the internals for sure. I can't recall what all the pieces are called. I need to finish welding my bench so I can mount my vice already.

Well that's good to know...goes to check oil bottle for Dexos label... Forgive my tiny brain, still trying to figure out the HPFP cleaning process. Do you need to completely disassemble the HPFP and the Autotech Internals? I shudder at the thought of that for how stuck my stock internals were...

@Enki, post the pictures...I never mind learning something new. I was going off info I remembered from MSF days...everyone had a hard-on for Rotella back then, so it's likely people that ran e85 were running Rotella as well, contributing to the problem and made some cause and effect assumptions...

1) You'll lose maybe 1-3 mpg running the e30 mix and tune. It's pretty safe to be honest...tuning in the range of e25 - e40 likely won't result in the HPFP issues that others speak about. I'll have to dig into some of the other comments regarding oil though...I didn't know about those issues...

I'm certainly no expert on corrosion (who really is?), but speak with a reputable autobody supply shop to discuss your plans and they should be able to help you out. Your basic premise seems correct though...I was going to say a wire wheel and other wire attachments for your drill will be your...

I also despise rust as well, but I live in Canada where we salt the roads continuously throughout the winter. My Gen 2 has started a rust problem as well. Personally, i may not bother with the bumper since it's a replaceable part. You may want to check a local junkyard to see if they have...

@rang-a-stang, You've received a lot of good advice here, so I won't be able to add much to the discussion. For starters, most benefit and least harm is found in e25-e35 mixes. I think there are mods and other considerations you would need to consider for corn mixes above that (black death...

E85 would be amazing on the S3 I bet. Makes a huge difference even on the K04. I've been debating doing the S3 install...even ordered the supporting mods (3 bar MAP and harness, 3-port EBCS, Forge V1 BPV), but my quarters and doors are starting to rust. Trying to decide if I proceed with the...

Sorry for the old thread revival, but did your autobody shop cut out the rear quarters and weld in new ones? I'm assuming you had a rust issue there?

@SyntheticAtmosphere, yeah my autobody skills are garbage...I definitely know I didn't miss a calling to that profession and I can 100% understand why they charge what they charge. Unfortunately I only started the Krown treatment this past year, only after I noticed the start of corrosion...

Well, I finished the paint repairs as best I could. What should have taken me a couple days turned into 8 days of frustration. I'm really not too sure how the repairs will hold up. So, I spoke to another autobody supply shop that was incredibly helpful and we confirmed the following: 1) It...

@SyntheticAtmosphere, is there a way to spray oil in between the outer quarter panel and inner panel inside the wheel housing without drilling a hole? It sounds like you're very experienced with this kind of work. With the way this has gone for me, I can't say I'll ever try it again. There's...

@Raider, I'm applying POR-15 right as we speak and it's already failing. I followed every step, cleaned the metal, used their degreaser multiple times, metal etched, rinsed thoroughly, let dry overnight and there is still a film or material preventing proper application. It's that, or it's the...

Hey guys, Over this past week, I've been trying to 'fix' a rust issue on my rear wheel arches and interior side bottom of the passenger front door, which is also starting to rust bubble on the exterior side as well. I live in the snow / salt belt that is Canada, so this isnt avoidable. I say...

I'd go with that then...wasn't worth the $40ish I saved making it myself and now dealing with troubleshooting the leaks, haha.

I put mine together for about $65. It worked pretty good especially for the clutch because I was nervous about the two stage reservoir we have. Near the end of the flush, I started to spring a slow / small leak at the reservoir cap. It also took a lot of time to troubleshoot leaks when I...

Changed my brake and clutch fluid and removed a decent amount of air in one of the brake lines. Next up is some paint repair in the rear wheel arches and passenger side door bottom that are starting to show signs of rust. After that, valve cleaning. After that...hopefully a turbo upgrade :cool:

Well...I successfully changed the brake/clutch fluid. There was a shit-ton of air in my rear drivers brake line. Glad I bought 2 liters of fluid because that one line took a long time to bleed. Pedal feels much better now. Overall it went great and my power bleeder worked quite well! Thanks...

Reviving my old thread because I finally got around to building my power bleeder. Life has been super busy for me...recently got engaged and have been learning to weld and have been slowly building a welding table/workbench when I get time. I ended up going with Pentosin Super DOT 4 fluid as...