Search results

Wow I wish I had thought about this when i had the subframe loose for installing my front sway bar! How much extra caster did you get?

The two weeks comment may have come up during a conversation about their upcoming intake manifold. I'd be willing to bet I'll be down there for a test fit next week or maybe the week after (2 weeks, really, like 14 days) Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

They did say 2 weeks when I was there. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

As usual Raider is a stand up guy!

Word of warning, cutting the shock towers for camber plates pretty much sucks, I had issues with the hole saw kicking back and due to the small spaces and my laziness of not wanting to pull the hood the drill handle got a few good shots on me. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Damn. Raider do you need anything from us to cover the cost of the new batch? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Any time Barett, we all love the stuff you guys make! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I think they'll just need to shave the legs off the bottom of the bracket and maybe cut a relief for some of the weld material that's piled on to the vestigial bracket. Regardless I think they'll figure out a way to make it work. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Be cool man; you're freaking Brett out. You got to ease him into having the door handle licked. In other news Barett said he got the measurements they needed and would give me a buzz to do a test fit in the future. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Guess where I am! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

as mentioned before suspension and mounts are a huge component but also being smooth with the throttle and clutch engagement will yield a lot of traction improvements. Finally you can also reduce the air pressure in your front tires to gain a bigger contact patch. For cheap anti-squat I...

I think @Barett@CorkSport has some email!

Haha I reached in front of the wheel while it was on the ground with the splash shield in tact as well... took me a few tries though!

I usually just tell them to zero out the toe as much as possible and make sure the camber is even between the sides. If you're looking for a street alignment this may let your tires survive to see 30k. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Confirmed that the 2011 (at least mine with a build date of 10/10) also has the vestigial driver side bracket. If Corksport needs any more cars to help do a trial fit I'd be happy to stop by with mine. Seems like you could just cut about 1/4" off the legs on the brace though to clear the bracket.

Nooo... say it isn't so! As a side note I don't remember seeing anything about what the brackets themselves were made of (kind of looks like stainless). They also look pretty stout so they should be plenty strong to hold the bumper up at speed.

I have not seen a different spec for the alignment on the 2010 vs the 2011+ but since the suspension parts are the same you should be able to adjust to either spec (assuming they're different). Are you trying to address a specific problem or just getting it aligned since its been a while?

Not sure what equipment you have handy but if you have a clamp on ammeter you could measure the current the pump is pulling from a 12v battery without a controller. I'll check mine later tonight but I think it should be less than 10amps. Any more and it could fry the controller. Sent from my...

The other thing to figure out would be rotors since we have 5x114.3 vs the cts v which is 5x120 Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Another random thought, I wonder if the Mazda 5 rear brake conversion would be enough to get the bias close to right. I have the CS BBK right now and it really doesn't need an adjustment to the stock bias but they also sized the combined area of the pistons to be similar to the single piston of...