Stuff Needed:
-21mm socket (rear attach bolts)
-17mm socket (front attach & RMM bolts)
-Torque Wrench that covers at least 75 ft/lbs & 120 ft/lbs
-1/2" impact wrench if you have access to one
-Large prybar
-6x25mm+ bolt/screw w/ plain nut or STD equiv.
-wrench to match bolt
-ruler
-Two 3T jackstands
-Floor jack (I used ramps and the jack)
-Brick to chock the rear wheel (use the parking brake too)
Setup
I'm assuming at this point you already know that you'll need to shift your subframe, you have cross camber and/or can't otherwise get both sides camber to match.
***Item of note: Move the subframe to the side you desire more negative camber. You are moving the lower control arm ball joint farther outboard on the desired side which will give you more negative camber.
Get the car up on jack stands, you do not want to support the car by any part of the subframe.
Loosen the subframe bolts and the RMM bolt. Front two bolts located below near the shock tower. 17mm and 12" long extension (1/2" recommended). You only need to loosen them a few turns, enough to allow the subframe to move. The star washers may be loose. While you have the 17mm loosen the RMM bolt.
Loosen the rear subframe bolts (21mm), again you only need to loosen a few turns. Use an impact or a 1/2" breaker bar, these are tight.
I took off both wheels because it was convenient but you don't absolutely need to. You're looking for the hole that is designed for the plastic brake line clip. Here's the clip that installed on the right side. If like me you need to shift your subframe to the left you will have to remove the plastic clip that holds the right brake hard line. Either a small pick or small needle nose pliers will help disengage the two ears, set aside for reinstall later.
Put together your adjustment tool, also known as a bolt and plain nut. Assemble it inside of the hole as you see below. Snug it up on the subframe with the appropriate tools.
Adjustment
Using the tool start shifting the subframe. I measured the gap between the body tab where the adjustment bolt/screw goes and the FWD subframe bushing collar. I knew my subframe needed to be moved to the left to equalize my ability to adjust camber and then adjust in as much caster possible (mentioned later). I may be overestimating Mazda's quality control on the manufacture of the body and subframe but my initial plan was to equalize the measurement for both sides, in my case it was approximately 17.5mm for each side.
When it reaches the measurement you desire you're almost done. Now I bring up shifting the subframe forward to maximize whatever caster you can muster. With the adjustment bolt still in place grab a decent sized pry bar and the ratchet with the extension and 17mm and start with the front attach bolts. What you're going to do is use the pry bar in the radius of the body and pry on the back side of the forward subframe tower to force the subframe forward, this will increase your caster as much as possible. While holding pressure on the pry bar to keep the frame as far forward as possible snug up the bolt. Repeat on the opposite side. Double check your measurements and tighten and torque the subframe mount bolts, 65-85 ft/lbs for the front, 99-129 ft/lbs for the rear.and 54-66 ft/lbs for the RMM.
Here is a pic showing the subframe moved as far forward as possible to maximize the available caster. You can see there is a pretty substantial amount of movement in my case.
Reinstall any wheels removed and take the car off the jack stands, torque your lugs to 65-87 ft/lbs. Now it's time for an alignment, either do you own string alignment or take it to a reputable shop that will set the specs exactly as you want them.
If you have all the tooling on hand and ready this can be done fairly quickly and should you need to adjust further it'll be easier the second time.
-21mm socket (rear attach bolts)
-17mm socket (front attach & RMM bolts)
-Torque Wrench that covers at least 75 ft/lbs & 120 ft/lbs
-1/2" impact wrench if you have access to one
-Large prybar
-6x25mm+ bolt/screw w/ plain nut or STD equiv.
-wrench to match bolt
-ruler
-Two 3T jackstands
-Floor jack (I used ramps and the jack)
-Brick to chock the rear wheel (use the parking brake too)
Setup
I'm assuming at this point you already know that you'll need to shift your subframe, you have cross camber and/or can't otherwise get both sides camber to match.
***Item of note: Move the subframe to the side you desire more negative camber. You are moving the lower control arm ball joint farther outboard on the desired side which will give you more negative camber.
Get the car up on jack stands, you do not want to support the car by any part of the subframe.
Loosen the subframe bolts and the RMM bolt. Front two bolts located below near the shock tower. 17mm and 12" long extension (1/2" recommended). You only need to loosen them a few turns, enough to allow the subframe to move. The star washers may be loose. While you have the 17mm loosen the RMM bolt.
Loosen the rear subframe bolts (21mm), again you only need to loosen a few turns. Use an impact or a 1/2" breaker bar, these are tight.
I took off both wheels because it was convenient but you don't absolutely need to. You're looking for the hole that is designed for the plastic brake line clip. Here's the clip that installed on the right side. If like me you need to shift your subframe to the left you will have to remove the plastic clip that holds the right brake hard line. Either a small pick or small needle nose pliers will help disengage the two ears, set aside for reinstall later.
Put together your adjustment tool, also known as a bolt and plain nut. Assemble it inside of the hole as you see below. Snug it up on the subframe with the appropriate tools.
Adjustment
Using the tool start shifting the subframe. I measured the gap between the body tab where the adjustment bolt/screw goes and the FWD subframe bushing collar. I knew my subframe needed to be moved to the left to equalize my ability to adjust camber and then adjust in as much caster possible (mentioned later). I may be overestimating Mazda's quality control on the manufacture of the body and subframe but my initial plan was to equalize the measurement for both sides, in my case it was approximately 17.5mm for each side.
When it reaches the measurement you desire you're almost done. Now I bring up shifting the subframe forward to maximize whatever caster you can muster. With the adjustment bolt still in place grab a decent sized pry bar and the ratchet with the extension and 17mm and start with the front attach bolts. What you're going to do is use the pry bar in the radius of the body and pry on the back side of the forward subframe tower to force the subframe forward, this will increase your caster as much as possible. While holding pressure on the pry bar to keep the frame as far forward as possible snug up the bolt. Repeat on the opposite side. Double check your measurements and tighten and torque the subframe mount bolts, 65-85 ft/lbs for the front, 99-129 ft/lbs for the rear.and 54-66 ft/lbs for the RMM.
Here is a pic showing the subframe moved as far forward as possible to maximize the available caster. You can see there is a pretty substantial amount of movement in my case.
Reinstall any wheels removed and take the car off the jack stands, torque your lugs to 65-87 ft/lbs. Now it's time for an alignment, either do you own string alignment or take it to a reputable shop that will set the specs exactly as you want them.
If you have all the tooling on hand and ready this can be done fairly quickly and should you need to adjust further it'll be easier the second time.
