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The wiring you're testing is for the actual gas pedal. If you have a circuit not showing the voltage as expected in the manual, that would mean your gas pedal is bad, not the throttlebody. There are no shared wires between the APP and the throttlebody. I would test for a short before...

Look for oil in your coolant or coolant in the oil, almost always have one or the other with a bad head gasket. Significant long term oil loss sounds like rings to me.

Is the sway bar or the endlink bent? Sounds like you need to replace the endlink.

That's a big turbo for the stock bottom end. Unless your building the motor soon, you're just asking for trouble going that big.

Bad wiring at the maf connector has been a common issue.

The coolant temp sensor and wastegate solenoid both terminate in connector 2 of the PCM, as do the CAN bus wires. Check the connector for corrosion or damaged pins.

Resistor can be bypassed by just jumping across the connector. It will not cause any issues to run the pump at full voltage all the time.

Three unrelated issues at once, with two being circuit high codes. I would start by looking for damage/corrosion around the pcm connectors.

These would be the easiest. Or you can get some normal 1mm pin test leads that will fit in the back of the connectors.

P2138 is only caused by the throttle pedal or bad wiring between it and the pcm. Test the pedal and it's wiring to find your issue.

I'd rather they just wrap them in a shirt and throw it in a padded envelope. It would probably cost less; and you'd have a corksport shirt.

You can pass 4g through the same hole as the hood release cable. Just seal it back up with silicon or strip caulk as the oem grommet wont fit with your wire also in the hole.

The switch is on the transmission.

The wire to test is in pin 1s(it's voilet)at the ECM. Should have 12v when the transmission is in any gear, and drop to ground in neutral.

At the neutral position switch in the transmission.

Looks really good.

https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/heat-shrink-tubing-2-1?pid=1370&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoo2ciqOv5gIVgZ-zCh3z6QWFEAQYAiABEgIfIvD_BwE

I used a cutoff wheel to cut the silicone intakes line to length. I use black heatshrink to finish the ends of the line so I can cut the black sleeve back a little farther from the fitting.

Over the transmission the only place to leak would be the hpfp housing bolted to the head, there is a gasket there that could be leaking. Could also just be fuel dilution and bigger ring gaps burning some of the oil. My built motor would use about a quart of royal purple in 1000 miles...