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I'm not sure your regulator can work properly that way. Usually they control pressure by opening to dump the excess through the regulator into the return; your drawing would mean the regulator opens to increase/maintain pressure. What I'm suggesting is that you go pump>new feed...

It's interfering, and you don't even know it. Ever feel like your'e giving it gas and the car just won't go?

McMaster ships same day for 99% of things. You'll probably have it Wednesday or earlier if your order is already in.

Ask Dan @silvapain . He replaced his hard line with AN hose.

I hadn't seen the table before. The table and graph don't match. smdh

Nothing complicated about it. Simple way: Run big wire from battery to pump, see if it holds pressure at full demand. Scientific way: 1. Check voltage at pump idling. That's your baseline. 2. Check at full demand, it shouldn't drop "much". I'll try to dig into what drop is acceptable. 3...

I don't understand how you're drawing that conclusion. You maintain pressure when you reduce flow demand, so you know your regulator is operating fine (though it might need a pressure tweak). When you increase flow demand (still well under what the pump *should* be capable of) you lose...

Didn't think to ask till now, and haven't looked at your logs or anything. What lambda/AFR are you running?

@Maisonvi Follow the math/data. -You already KNOW that pump design is keeping up on another engine with the same setup, making more power. (You're using an AN tee, not a 1/8npt fitting, correct?) -The math says you should be flowing sufficient fuel if the pump is keeping up with DW's...

That is an adjusting regulator. It has a reference for manifold pressure.

You can ballpark that math real quick based on horsepower (with assumptions and rounding, of course). Say ~350g/kwh bsfc. Use fuel density of ~700 g/L. kw*bsfc/density=required flow lph Which model AEM regulator are you looking at? The ones I've seen have a manifold reference. Fuel lines...

"Blah blah blah running out of pump blah blah." Rough math says you need 200 lph for what you're trying to do. You want close to 75 psi fuel pressure(~30 boost psi + ~45 delta p across injector to rail), and the chart says you will get about 265 lph there. Should be plenty of fuel if the...

35psi boost out of 200 psi WMI is nbd. 35 PSI boost out of 50psi PI rail pressure is a no go. Big difference. Kozmic's kit doesn't compensate for that. You have to scale up the PI IDC as the delta P across the injector drops. As long as you don't go below ~40 psi delta P from PI rail to IM...

You should definitely have more fuel than that. The pressure you're dropping to is effectively below what most injector manufacturers will tell you is a minimum. You're basically "dropping off the map" of known flows. Obviously, you aren't flowing enough. Crush that regulator.

You guys need to follow Edge on FB. They aren't fucking around when it comes to that ST of theirs.

I assumed you had more in the ST, that gives Alan some room to play with the RS. It'd be a good show.

You'll have to go up against the FoST if you do. Would be cool to compare total buy/build price vs performance. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Not knocking it, glad he's using it, but he needs seat time. If a 250whp MS6 can do high 1.6/1.7 all day without driver aids, he should cut 1.7, 1.8 at most. This thing is going to rip once he gets the hang of it. Very jelly. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Phalic knob? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

What you're saying is don't mess with one unless you're BT. Noted. Needs driver mod. That's easily a 12 second car. Edit: unless those are corrected numbers. Then disregard the 12 comment. I'd like to see raw numbers if that's the case Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk