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Hey y’all. Not new to the forum or the mzr engines. Just picked up a 2007 MS6. I learned my lesson on my ms3 that I still daily and checked compression before buying. 160psi across the board no fluctuation. The car has a AEM CAI and a bnr stage 1 turbo. Other than that it’s stock. It runs...

Yea I do know better. I’ve just gotten really used to not going above 5k (which is where I get knock). So is there a possibility of the actual tunes being bad rather than a mechanical issue. I’m going to drive it again sometime to see if it’s still not knocking.

Something very odd happened tonight. I found the launch control feature on my AP so I had to try it out. I also adjusted the wastegate duty multiplier just to see what happened. I boosted it around launch after launch just having some fun. Then it wouldn’t rev past 5k rpms. Sounded the exact...

Just wanted to update the page. The problem is still unresolved. I thought that my extreme post intercooler temps were to blame for my knocking. So I installed a 250cc methonal jet with a fully “custom” kit that I pieced together. It definitely helped with the temps. In this weather a 0 to 100...

It was simply a bad reman alt. I’ll know from now on to have them test the alt before I leave the store. It comes with a lifetime warranty so I’ll be good for as long as I own the car.

I found on the parts store website that the alternator that “fits my car” in the discription says it’s externally regulated so I’ve found my problem halfway. I’m gonna call and either get F***** with a 500 dollar alternator or find another part store that’s more inclined.

Well that’s what I don’t know. I called the parts store and asked if they still had my core. (They didn’t) Because the alt was still charging with half a thrown belt. The alternator plug is a 3 prong plug but has one blank with 1 grey and 1 faded green and sometimes blue wire. Can anyone give...

(2007 Mazdaspeed 3) I recently threw a belt after I had just replaced it. I don’t know what caused what but the alternator was stiff afterwards. I ordered a reman from a local parts store. (I’m not spending 500 on a new one). The old alternator was charging fine before all of this happened. (The...

It was just a loose connector on the injector. The car is running pretty well actually. I cant say if its fixed the knock issue as I've seen some knock but not as much. I know the ecu pokes and prods to find the balance between gas mileage and throwing a rod so I figure hitting 2 degrees every...

I just went back out and it ran normally for a few seconds and then went back to runnign stupid lean. Im getting the normal codes of egr vtcs stuck abs code. i do have one "injector cyl 4 eletrical malfunction" so im guessing its with that injector. still wouldnt explain running normaly then...

Just got my injectors back they weren't that bad. Injector rx really screwed one of them up with a vice or pliers. (Not to happy about that) Instaled some rockauto seals and put it back together last night. The car wouldn't start. I read that the high pressure system takes a bit of cranking...

I posted a new one becuase this one has tons of cluttery guesses and unrelated stuff. I learned alot about tuning and turbo car since I first posted this question. I sent my injectors off. Im running a reman factory turbo with factory boost controller. Id like to keep all discussion on the new...

At first I thought AUS meant Australia too. Their actual based in Tempe Arizona. Not local to me as I'm from oklahoma but at least there in the US. I think ill give them a shot.

I pulled the injectors. They look pretty nasty. The intake valves aren't any better either. Anyone know anything about a company called AUS injection? They offer a full DI injector service for 25 bucks a peice. New orings, cleaning, and flow matching.

A leaking injector would cuase the negative fuel trims at idle. I have no idea how healthy the injectors are. So ill be pulling them before any more damage is done. I'll get back to yall with anything I find. Thank yall.

I put a little bit of auto trans fluid and repeated the test on that cylinder. It now shows 160psi. Im sure the knock issue has played a part in this. It doesn't loose any oil what so ever so it could be just the top rings right? No matter what I have to get rid of the knock issue before...

I just preformed a compressions test. Bone cold, 5 revolutions. Counting from the drivers side cylinder 1 175 Cylinder 2 135 Cylinder 3 175 Cylinder 4 160. I definitely don't like the 135 but thats not enough to cuase these issues right?

I've also noticed the high temps. My engine is missing the top cover that goes around the intercooler so I think the air is going around rather than through the intercooler. It will heat soak on a sunny day as much as 130-140 at cruise. I've thought mabye a very small methonal jet could help...

Okay I'm starting a new thread becuase I've learned alot since I first got my hatchback. I have a 2007 mazdaspeed 3. It has a no name Sri with straightener, Autotech internals, just did a fuel pump seal kit, a tubular header, aluminum flywheel, reproduction factory turbo, egr delete, deleted...

I apologize I brought it up in google sheets to trim off the excess overrun and non boosted cells. Here is the stage 1 sf data logs. The Stage 2 maps weren't as bad.