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Those problems are likely the cause of the failure. When you see stuff that that indicates installation problems you can't blame the part at that point.. Doesn't matter what it's reputation is.

a leak down test is your best friend for telling what kinda health the engine is in. (Compression tests don't show everything) If you are worried about the ECU stuff, contact who ever you are going to use for tuning in the future and ask them about it.. Otherwsie, With a small paid...

When it comes to the rust on the plugs.. I wouldn't be to worried about that... I've seen water creep down into the plugs through the inter cooler ducting during some big rain storms and lots of hwy driving.. It's not something to worry about being a major problem... Replace the plugs and...

That's awesome he's helped out. Every little bit of help like that goes a long way to keeping something alive.

It's interesting Fortune Auto is having to ask you questions about the certificate of origin. That doesn't make sense to me.

I've seen this kind of mistake a bunch.. When mechanics don't clean a previous oil leak a bunch while diagnosing a leak... Last month I found a leak a friends Subaru that 2 shops couldn't find.. Clean it all up as spotless as possible..

Full on retirement doesn't sound like an enjoyable path.. A way to move on and get into something else would be a good idea.

The engine bay especially everywhere you see oil present.. You want it clean, with no signs of oil residue.. Usually takes a pressure washer and super clean, then some brake clean and compressed air.. this way you'll see fresh oil and know for sure where its coming from.

JB weld can work miracles. It might work if you use something between the two pieces and epoxy that in as well.. Kinda like a split for a broken arm.. when I busted mine. I almost had to buy a whole car with a bad motor to get one.. lol.

I was able to install a normal Mazda6 rad support on my Speed6 after I had a dumb mishap with my floor jack.

I've got a spread sheet I use for building MAF cals from logs.. When it comes to data logging get your self Megalogviewer HD.. You can get the Non HD version for free, but trust me. Pay for the full version, it's super cheap. If you want I've been working on a series talking about tuning in...

Looks like you are using one of the Versatuner base maps as your starting point.. Looking at your tune, you haven't done much yet.. Even though your AFR's look good, your MAF calibration is choppy. I've seen worse and this might not cause issues, but it's not correct either.. It needs to be...

UV Die can be miss leading. Engine oil will glow with out the die in it. Even though it wont be as bright. Coolant will glow brightly. Old leaks that were fixed but not well cleaned up can show up and send you down rabbit holes.. The key to finding leaks is to clean everything very very well..

If we want to understand how various maps work and when they are in effect, we need a starting place. For now we are going to assume everything is working normally, targets are being hit without any issues, there's zero knock present. Let's start with the APP tables. It's important to know that...

Waste gate duty cycle is the key to understanding what you experience.. When you have all the boost, your duty cycle is 0... This is because something is sticking.. Either the Wastegate it's self stuck closed or the boost control solenoid got stuck.. The duty cycle goes to 0 because the...

No it wont.. We aren't talking about some kind of massive leak.. If your turbo was leaking, you'd likely be loosing more oil then that... 1/2 a quart in 3 - 4000 miles is pretty good for a used motor. Brand new cars can burn that much oil and the manufacture would consider it "normal"

It's the line going from the valve cover to the intake before the turbo. It's part of the PCV system. even if this isn't your problem it's go to do this kind of health check before going down the rabbit hole of an upgraded turbo. When you've got 2 cylinder that show good compression but have...

Before condemning the turbo make sure you don't have any leaks above it. Also pull the intake off and look for oil inside possibly coming from the Valve cover vent. After that do a leak down test on the motor. Not just a compression check. My speed 6 had a leak like that, the motor had blow by...

Remember a previous post I made where I showed you how it was possible to calculate the theoretical crank HP? I started with the stock WOT air load command, Sent it through some basic calculations, dove into the stock VE map a little bit.. and spit out this image? If you don't go back 1...

FORScan with a subscription should allow you to do a factory reflash yourself.. It's been a long time since I've done it so I can't guide you on the process. This will erase what ever tune might be on it and let you start from scratch..