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Nope, i have built that myself, and yes it helps some. I was thinking something mounted to the bumper beam itself with a small gap between the condenser either from the top of the fmic or the top of the beam, to possibly get better flow. i might model something this weekend and try both...

Those with FMIC, Has anyone thought to make a divider from the top of the bumper beam straight back to the condenser. We know that the FM adds substantial turbulence, just a thought to smooth out the flow. Already added guides to the side to replace the factory plastic that's removed.

As a cheap stay putter, A little mild Velcro on the bottom did wonders for my 60-70 ish sealed setup. Just keeps it from sliding.

the only thing i notice is late WOT. Add the Actual throttle position to you logging tables. Then get another log and go WOT around 3k

Nice, I ended up going sealed with my sub selection. I was ported and loud but not clean sounding. as soon as it met the sealed box it was night and day. But my sub is preferd for a small sealed enclosure.

That was my thoughts as well, it would be nice to be able to run a standard plug gap and still be able to not have blow out

The accel coils advertise the same or similar. But have you found the Becker ignition anywhere besides ebay and amazon?

I think what we need is something like the CD ignitions. allowed for a longer dwell for more stable spark. Makes you wonder if we could adapt the 05-06 mazda 3 coil and get a accel coil pack

I really don't think it matters. electrical current travels on the surface of the wire, think of it this way. you battery cable going to the starter is multi-strand, high performance audio uses even finer wire. That's why i went strand. kept the spring as a holder and a guide to the length.

A small hole maybe a 1/4" or so for the spring to set in. ( the hole has a metal cup that the spring resides in)

Correct, the factory spring just rests on the top of the plug. the boot has a little retention spot to help hold the spring. and the coil itself has a small indent to retain the spring as well. A lot of guys remove the spring all together and replace with a solid piece of copper.

The coilpack has a little pocket. you cut the copper wire to meat inside the coilpack and rest slightly above the the plug so when you insert the coilpack you get a solid connection.

That's basically what i'm doing. I run 8 gauge wire inside the spring, since the current travels on the outside of the wire this should significantly reduce the resistance.

Crap, I'll pull a pack as soon as I get home from work. I prefer it over the solid wire set up.

From what i found it seemed to be something to do with their pcv system.

I think that the endlinks on the front mounting to the strut is partial to blame for the short life. on most vehicles I've worked on the sway bar endlink mounts to the lower control arm. This allows for a shorter endlink as well.

That's sex

not bad

Still, that weld may have looked pretty but dang, absolutely no penetration.

So, is this dead now