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If you have the time and patience building a motor is not that bad. I go through the entire process in my build. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/

Why is your bore 87.75 and not just 88? I am sure they are fine if you did not smash them too much, they see some pretty serious shit when the engine is running.

I used one just like this but mine was 88 with 88 pistons and bores. I didn't have any issues. 87.5 is oem size. ://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Tapered-Piston-Ring-Compressor-RCS08750-87-5MM-/272636191375?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

There is def some slop on it and that is normal. I have not seen anyone replace the bearing but it seems like you could as there does appear to be a part # for it.

They will not sit flat as the lobe of the cam will be pressing down on some buckets at all times. Start from the center bolts and tighten it down slowly . working your way out and back to the center. The manual tells you how to do it and so does the video from oddball.

The round side that is not "touching" the bucket is where it needs to be to measure it. See this pic.

Your lean is from the tune not the injectors. These cars are direct injected and they don't make bigger ones for it. The stock injectors are good too about 375 whp. Yes do the other mods before getting a tune.

You need a real tune, the cobb tunes are not great. If that AEM intake is not the same diameter at the MAF as OEM those tunes will also not work. You are going super lean at WOT. Do not drive it like this "at least don't floor it, you can still drive like a granny". Get Purple Drank or Freek...

Car is fixed, I ended up cutting the harness off the bad resistor and soldering it. That worked well. I also fixed my wobble / shake on acceleration. It was the passenger axle. It must have something internally wrong causing it to get out of center when TQ is applied. Here is a video of the...

Yeah I don't think it is necessary for what I am doing. I will make a nicer bypass like I had before with the actual pins, maybe I can find what plug it is and just get one. I could cut the bad resistor up too and use that plug.

Smol Update: Brakes are working great, car decided to do a start and idle and NO MORE FUEL PRESSURE, then ded. I had my cousin give me a ride home as it was already dark out and figured I would look at it the next day. I put out the call and @andale927 said to check the fuel pump resistor on...

Like you get it into gear but then it is slow to grab? Or it is just hard to get into gear?

It's possible the AWD system is throwing a code that the AP can't read? If that is doing something wonky it could put the car into some sort of limp mode. Do you know anyone with a better scan tool?

Something like this would help, it probably didn't go to far and is sitting at the bottom.

I have noticed now that it is cold out the car does not want to idle at cold start "30f and lower" unless I manually hold it at 2k rpm for about 10 seconds. I will be switching back to stock values for he cold months and see if that fixes it.

I have re-used CS seals about 4 times without issue. You will want your mafcal touched up if you had a bad injector as it can only compensate so much. I would let you tuner know this and see what they can do for you. Glad you are making some progress.

I fixed two I saw were bad , are there still more? Are you sure you are looking at the device manager to see what Com Port the USB to Serial is creating?

Bro, that dipstick end is broken.