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With the front wheels off the ground, turn the output shaft of the Tcase. It should be smooth. If there is any grinding or crunchy action there is big trouble. Also feel for changes in how smooth it turns. If the vibes were short lived it is possible they came from the joint failure. You...

now even better...a rotary Pinto!!?! More spending than any Pinto deserves, lol

A missed opportunity. Ive seen 2.3Lturbo pintos do 13s with stock parts. It was a slam dunk swap too.

I was on that project in the early 2000s. I had gutted an 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe. Rebuilt the 2.3L EFI turbo intercooled engine and was looking for a body. I was looking for a 74 Pinto or a MustangII. The hotrod scene has all the front suspension options for cheap. Sold all the...

I am completely green with envy here! That is my #2 want car, immediately behind a classic 911 (equally spendy) You have same taste too. spoiler less, the round fogs, rims. I like it all...Ive always wanted Innocent Blue tho ;) Keep us informed...Ill be watching!

I had the same issue on my MS6...Also, when blleding the cutch system, there is a connection point where the line goes from hardline to flex. crack that connection and bleed to that point. Then tighten and bleed to the slave. The master dosent have enough piston throw to completely bleed the...

And track vids too!

Youve worked hard on this. Its nice to see it coming together. I think the patience is because you get to sit back and see what your work rewards you with! Need more of that exhaust...That is the best sounding Honda I have heard yet! I hope it screams up top too...that would be cake!

Aug Mosport weekend is in my calendar now. My son & I might come be spectator for a bit. ;)

I dont think your 1-2 issues will be rectified by replacing the mount, these cars are cable shifted.

Lift the trans lightly with a jack and a piece of wood, just enough to see the play in that transmission mount. Its bad. If that mount is bad also check the dogbone shaped mount at the back of the engine from underneath.

Although Im not a good log reader, I tried looking at the logs in the OP. I see your LTFT runs between 0 & -10. Although that isnt optimal and should be tightened up, its not grossly out of whack. Its bad, but not that bad. Have you spoken to your tuner? Your STFT do fluctuate a lot under...

What are you running for a BPV? Can you swap it out for another? It is normal for the AFR to richen when the brakes are applied, the booster is putting an air load on the engine which is post MAF. Something else is the issue making it hard for the computer to maintain proper AFR.

Are you still going lean with brake application, still having the same issues? Or do you mean that nothing changes when the brakes are applied?

Looks great! Keep it up and the work will pay off long term. I have posted some threads in the 3/6 Detailing section if you are interested. I hope to get back at it once my new garage is completed.

Dont change things until you know that is the source of the problem. You need to plug the intake port and see if the situation improves. As for right now its just a hunch. If the problems are because of the power brakes system, plugging the intake port will answer that question. Then you...

Sweet :hambre:. Thank you, info is always good!

I dont have a picture of the valve, its built into the hose. I would block @ the intake manifold first. If you symptoms improve, the hose, check valve or booster are the issue. If no change, hose/check valve/booster are not your issue.

My opinion is OEM axles are commonly better quality than A/M brands. Ive dealt with too many fitment issues and engineering differences to trust them, especially when low priced. However I have found a shop through a friend at my local NAPA that makes custom shafts. They will weld on new...

Yes, plug the connection point at the engine and see if your issues improve. Edit: GP9A43490A is the part number for the hose with built in check valve, which is regrettably discontinued by Mazda.