The pictures of the wrist pin are showing oil residue and the pins a securely lock down with the c clips. Just finished putting a stock short block in while I sort this mess out.
Freektune was the tuner. Also i always logged and monitored KR on the coob when doing pulls for tune logs. Time to tear it all apart and see about sleeving the block.
It was indeed a 88mm over bore. Running new cpe mag 2 pistons and eagal rods. I will go grab some pictures. The damage being on the pin side caught me off gaurd too. Also both cylinder 2 and 3 have the damages in the same area.
Pictures of cylinder 3 piston
Just finish building my speed 6 engine a few months ago. Once the motor was broken in I proceeded to get it tuned. Everything was going well. Compression was 150 across the board. Changed the oil and it looked good as well. Right around 1000miles I noticed when starting the car cold I could hear...
Awesome,lots of good info Eroler, that's an interesting trick to pull the cams with out removal of the timing cover. Also thanks for the update on the retorquing procedure being needed to prevent head lift.
I will be running oem thickness cometic mls head gasket. The studs I plan on running are l19 arps from edgeautosports. Not sure on the torque as there web site doesn't specify.
I'm building a motor and want to know if I will have to tear back into the engine to retorque aftermarket head studs down the road. Anyone know? If so I'd assume the cams have to be pulled out to and then retime everything Thanks in advance