Retorquing head studs required?

Rotormike

Rotormike

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I'm building a motor and want to know if I will have to tear back into the engine to retorque aftermarket head studs down the road. Anyone know? If so I'd assume the cams have to be pulled out to and then retime everything Thanks in advance
 
what head gasket are you using? thickness? type?
also what headstuds? and torque numbers?
 
I will be running oem thickness cometic mls head gasket. The studs I plan on running are l19 arps from edgeautosports. Not sure on the torque as there web site doesn't specify.
 
you can go on Freektune on the intruction with the headstuds, L19/H11 should be same and even the Custom Age 625+ pretty much all have the same installation specs. 65 lbs.
https://www.freektune.com/products/custom-l19-head-studs-mazdaspeed3-6

for the gasket, is there a way for you to get a MLX style instead or are you lock in at a certain head gasket? I would recommend Cometic MLX gasket over the mls although the lead time is 5-6 weeks

And to answer your questions, yes the cams have to be remove to retighten although the timing cover doesnt have to be uninstalled, if you loosen the chain by putting a bolt in the timing cover then you could remove the exhaust cam gear only and youll be able to remove both cams.

Retorquing HS is mainly you choice tho, most people dont
but for me I have to everytime. and if I dont retorque I always end up head lifting which is not fun.
 
Awesome,lots of good info Eroler, that's an interesting trick to pull the cams with out removal of the timing cover. Also thanks for the update on the retorquing procedure being needed to prevent head lift.
 
Rotormike said:
Awesome,lots of good info Eroler, that's an interesting trick to pull the cams with out removal of the timing cover. Also thanks for the update on the retorquing procedure being needed to prevent head lift.
Click to expand...
search for the thread that had the VVT replacement, the instruction is actually there on how to do it, it doesnt show that the cams are remove but the exhaust/intake gear were remove and thats how you can remove the cam,

many will argue on the reason of headlift, knock, improper torque, etc

but for me Ill just retorque it,
(p.s I'm currently dealing with headlifting right now lol)
 
Rotormike said:
What hardware are you currently using that's having a lifting issue?
Click to expand...
-Custom Age 625+ 10mm (stock size) head studs torque to 100 lbs with ARP lube.
-Cometic MLX Gasket (custom style with water jackets modified)


head lifted because I didnt retorqued it, I normally retorqued after 3 heat cycles then another retorque after 5 WOT logs but this time I got very very lazy.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top