6262, Manley 88, Ported head, Crower springs DD build

[drew10101010]

Built 2618 build with a goal of a fun DD. Basically I chose parts to withstand 750 hp. It would've been 900 with h-tuff plus rods that I ordered but they were out of stock so I settled for h-tuff's. It's probably too much power for the street anyways but I just wanted to overbuild it for futureproofing and strength. Plus why not dial it down for the street then turn it up at the track?

2012 Speed 3
Manley extreme 88 mm (upgraded pins) .021 top .024 bot gaps with Manley recommended P2W ty Sho!
Freek confirmed my whole build and said it will be fine (besides the porting which I added later)
H-tuff rods. Rotating assembly balanced.
Clevite Main bearings MS-2245A
Clevite H rod bearings CB-1925H
ARP Main studs
Crower 68195-16 springs, Ecotec retainers
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/cheap-valve-spring-option.3921/
Head ported n polished. Bowl was opened and I should get it back in a few days.
Stock cams
Valves were ground to set lash. This saved me a ton of headache of swapping buckets.
New generic stem seals
Head milled 4 thou
OEM head gasket
Freek H11 headstuds with ARP lube
All new OEM timing components including friction washers, crank bolt, crank gears and cam bolts.
Massive speed timing install kit
New Ford oil pump
Oil cap breather, breather on other valve cover port.
Will need to source a large intake or build one.
Will go PI later. Most likely with Damond ST manifold kit.
Will run stock everything for now to pass inspection because I just got the car and it's not registered.
Stock intake manifold ported and vtcs removed.
Damond EGR delete.

Trans
Fidanaza
ACT 6 puck disc (hopefully this works with oem PP)
New TOB and pilot
Trans appears to be a reman that is about a year old which is nice.

Turbo
PTE 6262 Journal .63 (used from FB. If it chokes top end I'll swap in a .82 housing)
Turbine housing ported and gasket matched. Not 100% perfect but should work fine.
Planning on using a turbo blanket and wrapping the downpipe.
Will have to custom build a downpipe and dump tube (3" vband) and will prob run a 3" High flow cat and a cutout.
Controversial Ebay Focus Mazda 3 log manifold. Got this ported. Flanges were checked and they are perfectly flat. @Easter Bunny
Another guy had to mill the flange where the turbo mounts so it doesn't sit so close to the firewall. Hopefully I won't have to do that. We'll see.
Not sure what gate to run. Maybe weld on a 44 mm flange and Ebay gate.
FP Red oil feed filter. This is for break in.
Mamba ebay oil feed kit
I'm probably forgetting things.

 

[drew10101010]

Well I finally got some work done on this bitch. Got some pics of the ported head and intake mani. Exhaust is very smooth almost mirror like but the intake is still a little rough which is needed when I go PI eventually. I also got the engine up on the stand and will be doing plastigauge checking of the crank. I also got pics of the cast ebay manifold but I think I'm just going to run the stock mani and k04 for now and run a Freektune OTS+ for the time being. The 6262 turned out to be a dud as the dude ripped me off. The turbine blades are all chewed up. So pissed about that.

Can someone confirm if this is the right guide for this engine? https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/mzr-engine-assembly-manual.13140/
and also this: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/engine-tq-specs.962/ Thanks

 

[Awafrican]

Sorry about the turbo luck, yes those are for the speed engine, you should also check out JTs build thread he's got a shit ton of info in there.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/

He also created a few how to threads in the how to section

 

[drew10101010]

Well all the main clearances came out to .002.

It appears to be looser than standard but below max which is fine. Am I reading this right? .0007 <.0015 < .002 < .0039


She's a squirter Also installed BSD delete plug and oil squirters with blue harbor freight threadlocker. Hopefully this doesn't blow my motor kappa.

 

[drew10101010]

Some pics of the balanced rods and pistons. All came out to 1156g!
They ground down the bottom of the rod to achieve balance.

 

[drew10101010]

Measured the ring gaps that the shop gapped for me. Asked for .021 and .024 but seems I got much larger gaps. Seems the top is .025 for 3 of them and 1 is larger at .026 or 7.
Then second ring with the dot is .029 -.0.30. Are these too loose? Or will it be fine?


Alright what I think I'm going to do is open up the rings slightly so they all match with the largest. This will make it so each cylinder has even compression. And I think these gaps will be fine. Might have more blowby but no chance of touching. Feel free to add comments to tell me I'm horribly wrong.

edit: I could've possibly measured it wrong as I pushed the rings pretty far down. Instructions says to go only 1" so I will remeasure. Seems to be a taper where the cylinder gets tighter.

 

[jdab555]

Measured the ring gaps that the shop gapped for me. Asked for .021 and .024 but seems I got much larger gaps. Seems the top is .025 for 3 of them and 1 is larger at .026 or 7.
Then second ring with the dot is .029 -.0.30. Are these too loose? Or will it be fine?
View attachment 21650

Alright what I think I'm going to do is open up the rings slightly so they all match with the largest. This will make it so each cylinder has even compression. And I think these gaps will be fine. Might have more blowby but no chance of touching. Feel free to add comments to tell me I'm horribly wrong.

edit: I could've possibly measured it wrong as I pushed the rings pretty far down. Instructions says to go only 1" so I will remeasure. Seems to be a taper where the cylinder gets tighter.

You should ask the shop why you didn't get what you asked for, even if it might work. I assume you had a justification for your ask, don't toss it just because the shop didn't listen.

 

[Awafrican]

You should ask the shop why you didn't get what you asked for, even if it might work. I assume you had a justification for your ask, don't toss it just because the shop didn't listen.

100% this talk to them, you asked for specs and it seems they're quite off. Did they tell you what their tolerances for the process is?

 

[drew10101010]

I'll ask the shop. They didn't tell me about tolerances.
Seems the max is .039. Stock is hilariously tight. Before the rebuild the motor had cracked ringlands and a spun bearing.

So remeasured again at 1" down and seems I can make them all even at .028 top .032 bot.

 

[drew10101010]

Dropped off the block and rings to the machine shop and he said he will check it.

 

[drew10101010]

Ok got the rings back. He remeasured and assured me it was ok. Although I'm getting different readings than he is. I did make a mistake the first time which I guess lead to the wild readings. This time I used an old piston with the first ring removed and 2nd still there. He said I could use this method. First Time I used the old stock piston but with all rings removed. This time every ring is uniformly pressed down. It appears 3 are .022 top and .028 bot and 1 is . 023 top .027 bot. Should I leave it like this? I suppose cyl 3 could get the looser one as in my experience in Honda's Cyl 3 is always the one to fail from detonation. I'm not sure how it will work here. Here you can see .022 fits and .023 doesn't and the bare ring.



2nd ring where .028 fits snugly.


Ring squaring tool

Old piston with cracked ringlands!!!


Old motor had rod knock and cracked ring lands so I'm guessing the rings touched and also detonation which can cause a spun bearing. What is the usual cause of spun bearings on this motor? I know oil starvation is one.

 

[drew10101010]

The more I read about ring gaps, the more I think it will be ok. I might just slap these in as they are. .022 and .023 is perfectly fine for the top with high boost. and .028 is fine for bot as well. Although I think .0026 would've been better but what can ya do? One weird thing though is one of the 2nd rings is brown. Why is that???? You can see in the first pic of the previous post. Is it rusted? I'll have to inspect it again closer.

 

[drew10101010]

Machine shop came though and got me a new set of rings for no charge! Fuckin awesome.



Assembled the pistons. Installing the snap rings was a piece of cake. I used a pick and pried on the clip using leverage by placing the pick end in the little cutout. Also coated with lots of Lucas assembly lube which I think should be good because it contains ZDDP which I don't think Redline lube has.
Lucas 10152
https://www.redlineoil.com/assembly-lube
I rebuilt an H22 a few months ago and used the Redline lube and it worked fine. The engine runs fantastic with 240 psi compression and around 90 psi oil pressure cold 5-20 warm idle and basically no oil consumption. I'm not sure how accurate my oil pressure gauge is as it's an ebay analog gauge with an electric Glowshift sender. I've heard of inaccuracies with electric units. I also recently redid the ground and the numbers have gone up. It seems they are sensitive to ground.

Old vs new. Notice the wrist pin No wonder these pencil thin rods always window the block. I believe they are powder forged as all oem rods are but just not beefy enough.

 

[Awafrican]

Glad the shop took care of you. When you see the rods side by side the OEM ones really do look like chicken bones if only they were tougher....

 

[drew10101010]

Yeah the shop owner is great. Pretty much every OEM rod from all cars look like this as far as I've seen. It happened to me too lol

Here my stock B18b pistons at 300 whp that bent a rod LOL. Sounds like rod knock btw

 

[yeet123]

Did you end up refiling your rings yourself or did you decide to go with the ones the shop originally filed?

 

[drew10101010]

Did you end up refiling your rings yourself or did you decide to go with the ones the shop originally filed?

I refiled new rings to .020 .024 exactly. Using a dremel . 3rd time I've done it with a dremel. Place it into vice and have steady hands and go slow because it works fast. The 2nd ring goes quickly but top ring takes alot longer. Then deburr with fine grit sandpaper. I used what I had laying around which was 2000 grit. This part is important to not have burrs that will scratch the walls or keep the ring from moving around freely in the piston. I had to deburr all of them because they wouldn't move around freely in the piston. There's alot of youtube vids on doing this with a dremel. Some made jigs using nails and such to hold it steady but I just used my hands.

 

[drew10101010]

Plastigauged the rods and they came out to .0015. I think .002 would've been better but iamareios used the same rod clearance https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/endgame-setup-bw-s257sxe.11417/
and he's making tons of power so I'm happy. I ended up using Clevite extra clearance bearings CB1925HX which have .001 more clearance.

Bought an expensive ass rod ARP rod stretch gauge and got them all to .006 stretch.

It took a surprising amount of torque to get there. About 80lbs for most but some needed only 60ish. So I would highly recommend a stretch gauge. I had a Lunati stretch gauge before this ARP and it was poor quality and unusable. The allen bolt stripped out and the lower mount was too short anyways. The ARP is amazing quality. Super smooth spring, the thumb hole is handy and the bottom mount works great. My torque wrench is a Harbor freight pittsburgh pro. I think it reads about 5 lbs too low as I verified with my digital torque adapter and was getting different readings. At lower torque like say 20 its accurate. It has the normal 4% error of most torque wrenches. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html?
Torque is inaccurate because of friction. There's a ton of Google material out there on this topic. Big ups to HF because they replaced my old torque wrench for free under lifetime warranty. I used the new one here.

Hmmm