AJKulish's build thread

ajkulish

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Copied from the other forum, figured id put this here as well.

As some of you may know, I had some shit luck and a valve seat shattered unexpectedly, mashing my piston faces and scraping up my cylinder walls. I also recently graduated and got salaried so its time to say fuck it. Lets build this thing.

Last summer I bought a 06 VRM MS6 after wrecking the genwon and fell in love. So much more sophisticated of a vehicle, IMO. It is a very clean shell, has only seen one winter, no rust, straight body, etc. So it is the perfect candidate to pour money into. I acknowledge that i will never get my money back on this thing, so I figured why not just throw money at it and really enjoy it before i move on.

My work owns and operates an engine shop, very popular in the Viper community, Arrow Racing Engines. So I took my block there for inspection and machining. I also took full advantage of the huge discount we get on parts through my employer. I believe, at this point, I have everything needed to put this build together. The purchased list is as follows

GTX3076r
Manley Rods
Manley Pistons
Stage 1 OEM rebuild kit with bolts (edge)
AEM WMI w/ Damond Motorsports spacer
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch with streelite flywheel
CX Racing FMIC
Massive speed BSD
JBR TB gasket
ATP turbo line kit
3 bar map sensor w/ harness
OEM Water pump
AEM Uego Wideband
Prosport Evo boost
Prosport Evo oil pressure with Damond motorsports adapter
3 inch intake (forgot brand)
Darton repair sleeve (for strange inclusion in bore)

I am certain that there is more, but this is this the running list i have been keeping. I also have been doing a mild port and polish on my replacement cylinder head. I put more emphasis on opening up the exhaust ports, but was more-so just port matching the intake runners. I also now have very clean valves.

The darton sleeve is to repair my #2 cylinder which had a strange hard spot in the bore. I did not want to buy a new block, so I sourced a repair sleeve from Darton. It was not an advertised part, but it does exist, in case anyone else was wondering. You can see the strange spot (ground down) in the pics below.

I am making this thread as a resource for questions that pop up, and for documentation of the whole process. If anyone sees things that i dont have listed and should, or anything like that please speak up!

Below are some of the pictures i have taken to this point.
 

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Some pictures of the carnage that took me down this annoying path.
[doublepost=1500309551][/doublepost]I do have a few questions though, if anyone can shed some light:

1: I have heard the IWG ATP turbos can have issues with the flap colliding with the diverter on the Corksport down pipe. Can anyone shed light on this? Or know how much this needs to be ground down to clear?

2: Anyone have a template for keying the crank? I'd like to do it, but dont want to send it out since it is already at a race shop. I just want to make sure the sun gears are oriented properly to the crank.

3. Similarly, anyone have a template for a oil pan baffle? Im just gonna make my own, no need in spending 75 bucks on one when i can do it for free.
 

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Got to do some work at the engine shop yesterday. Crank is micropolished and inspected, block is bored and honed, and 3 sets of pistons and rods are installed. Unfortunately, the Manley second ring on the cylinder 3 piston had a bit of a flared end (not sure if it was something i did when putting the piston in the ring compressor, or if it was a fault in machining) but it got stuck in the groove, and ultimately snapped trying to get it out. So I have expedited a ring set to my house, hopefully I can get back to the shop and finish the short block this weekend.
 

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Got the mechanical part of the WMI kit installed last night. Very sturdy and I am happy with the cleanliness of the setup.

Also decided to hack the shit out of my dash board flip top so that my triple gauge pod would still flip open, and allow me to continue utilizing that space. It was a lot of work, and it ended up about 1/4" above the rest of the dash, but the fact that i don't have to sacrifice that storage space makes me very happy with it. Let me know what y'all think.
 

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That's gonna be a beast of engine, looking forward to seeing you complete this.
I got a couple parts on the way, like an ecoboost Mustang oil pump, but once that's here the long block will be wrapped up. I'm shooting for motor install next weekend. Fingers crossed!

Sent from my Galaxy S7
 
Got the cylinder head on, and put the ecoboost Mustang oil pump in. That pump, compared to my tired factory pump, has a looser gap in the pickup of the oil compressor. You can see the difference in the pictures below. It should, theoretically, outflow our factory pump all while costing 15% of the price of a new OEM one.

Happy to be moving along but it's a shame I will never see those shiny piston faces again (hopefully). Timing tonight.
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Sent from my Galaxy S7
 
The root problem may be the loosely meshed gear and its method of manufacture, so perhaps applicable?
 
The root problem may be the loosely meshed gear and its method of manufacture, so perhaps applicable?

I just got in touch with an EBM owner, and he said that it is not a problem on their platform. He also went as far as to ask his engineer friends at Ford if there is any inherent difference between the MZR and EBM pump. He said that they both said with 99% confidence that there is no difference. The pump is also the same for the 2.0 ST. I will continue to keep everyone updated, but this seems like a drop in replacement for a significant price saving.
 
putting my car together as we speak, fuck is this piece? Cant find anywhere it should bolt up
 

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very close to the build being done, but i need help identifying 3 clips that i cant seem to find the other end of the connection to.

1. the ambient air temp sensor is at the end, but one before that is a clip i cant find the other end to.
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2. this is off the same part that clips into the EGR, cant find anything close enough to plug into it.

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3. This is near the headlight, and come to think of it, there may be a matching one on the passenger side.
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Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks!
 
3 inch HTP intake crashing hard. any suggestions
 

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How much wider is the 3076 than the K04? Could that be causing the offset you see?
 
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