Best Engine Oil - All Mod Levels

Just be careful when you’re buying oil because retailers are still selling through old stock, some of which does not meet SN Plus specifications. If it doesn’t say Dexos Gen2 on the label, chances are it’s not the SN Plus rated stuff. It’s also a good indicator of how long that oil’s been sitting on the shelf. Some oils like Mobil 1 have a shelf life of 5 years. Any oil that should be labeled SN Plus and isn’t has been sitting there quite a while if SN Plus came out in 2018. All SN Plus labeled oil is fresh.


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Well, not exactly empirical evidence or anything yet, but I can tell you she LOVES the 5w30 Castrol EDGE with Titanium SN Plus stuff. Just changed over from Brotella and this is easily the smoothest and quietest it’s run since I built it. Also the exhaust smells clean like it’s not burning off oil.


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Is Rotella no longer on the "cool" list? They finally came otu with a T6 15W40, which is what I consider the ideal weight for the DISI in summes/hot climates. The 5W40 was more of a winter oil for me. However, I've been running T5 semi-synth 15W40 and it's been great and priced well.
 
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I'm still running a 5w30, but Rotella had really bad fuel dilution issues which can (help) cause the LSPI crap.
 
I am running Tribodyn 5w40 it performed the same in the hot summer as it has in the balls cold ass winter. My oil pressure is close to 100 on a cold start and usually 40 psi over engine rpm when warmed up. I will be switching to Royal Purp 5w30 as I don't really need my pressure to be that high and I can get Royal Purp local much easier plus gen 2 has had really good reviews. I will let you know when I make the switch what oil pressure looks like. I know there is more to it then that but it seems like a pretty good indicator of how the oil is holding up.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I am running Tribodyn 5w40 it performed the same in the hot summer as it has in the balls cold ass winter. My oil pressure is close to 100 on a cold start and usually 40 psi over engine rpm when warmed up. I will be switching to Royal Purp 5w30 as I don't really need my pressure to be that high and I can get Royal Purp local much easier plus gen 2 has had really good reviews. I will let you know when I make the switch what oil pressure looks like. I know there is more to it then that but it seems like a pretty good indicator of how the oil is holding up.
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The local “Rural King” store here in town started carrying Amsoil High performance oil in 5w30 and 10w40 I think. Isn’t amsoil awesome to run especially if I can get it locally? It’s about $12/qt.
 
I ran a couple of different Amsoil types when I was still stock power wise. Nothing fancy to write home about. Longest interval that Blackstone told me to run on was 9k miles. I have the oil reports somewhere, I just have to dig them up.

If you can get it cheap enough, sure go for it. It is not bad stuff at all. But if you are willing to spend the extra couple of bucks, there are better oils out there.
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
I ran a couple of different Amsoil types when I was still stock power wise. Nothing fancy to write home about. Longest interval that Blackstone told me to run on was 9k miles. I have the oil reports somewhere, I just have to dig them up.

If you can get it cheap enough, sure go for it. It is not bad stuff at all. But if you are willing to spend the extra couple of bucks, there are better oils out there.
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Same same, don't over think it. Go to walmart and buy Penz Plat or Royal Purp , 5w30 or 5w40 and then just send it. With a built motor and looser tolerances you will need to top off once in a while so get something cheapish and easy.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
The local “Rural King” store here in town started carrying Amsoil High performance oil in 5w30 and 10w40 I think. Isn’t amsoil awesome to run especially if I can get it locally? It’s about $12/qt.
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I can’t speak for their regular oil, but I can tell you I used Amsoil break in oil in my fresh build and the old girl was not happy with that stuff at all. Immediately switched it out for regular ol’ conventional 5w30 and she was much happier immediately. I don’t care how well the oil lubricates on paper if it feels and sounds like a god damn farm tractor on startup. lol



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using redline 5w40 oil, 4000 street km's of driving, and 2 full track days where the oil saw a lot of 280f+ temperatures. i guess this report is decent?
oil_report.png
 
i've been religiously using PUP 145k miles. but after reading virgin and used uoa's on kirkland 5w-30 i am seriously considering trying it. right now Costco is selling two 5qt jugs for 21.99. its formulated by warren, pretty much same stuff as supertech. carries sn plus and d1g2 (haven't seen any SP yet. for a street driven car on low mileage OCI's it seems good enough.
 
If they or supertech made a synthetic 15w40 and 5w40 for that kind of money it would be amazing

Just checked, they do sell a 15w40 dino diesel oil, and for $33/3 gallon pack it just may be worth it, even with 2-3k intervals.
 
Enki said:
See second post for instructions on adding to this list.
Items are rated based on additive analysis and overall user success.

Current Leaderboards:
1. Tribodyn 15w40
2. Royal Purple 5w30 DEXOS
3. Brad Penn Semi-Synthetic 10w40




Royal Purple 5w30 DEXOS
@VashEXE Added 2-25-2019; > 500 WHP, E50+ fuel; 6th Port.

Calcium: Excellent
Molybdenum: Good
Sodium: Excellent
Zinc: Excellent

Link for UOA:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/the-buttstallion-build.5659/page-7#post-64746



Tribodyn 15w40
@Sho Added 4-25-2019; >550 WHP, E48+ fuel; PI.

Calcium: Excellent
Molybdenum: Excellent
Sodium: Excellent
Zinc: Excellent

Link for UOA:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/#post-67172



Brad Penn Semi-Synthetic 10w40
@Sho Added 4-25-2019; >550 WHP, E48+ fuel; PI.

Calcium: Excellent
Molybdenum: Low
Sodium: Excellent
Zinc: Excellent

Link for UOA:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/#post-67172
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I’m still new to this platform and the website. I’ve been trying to find out what oil is recommended for slowing down smoke(turbo) and what’s recommended in general unless the 3 listed are the ones I should look into. I have some bolt ons and tuned on 93 octane pump gas. I’m not sure if this is the right thread to write this on so my apologies if I’m out of place here
 
Jerome said:
I’m still new to this platform and the website. I’ve been trying to find out what oil is recommended for slowing down smoke(turbo) and what’s recommended in general unless the 3 listed are the ones I should look into. I have some bolt ons and tuned on 93 octane pump gas. I’m not sure if this is the right thread to write this on so my apologies if I’m out of place here
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Not so much about the oil type any of the top 3 will do well, its about the oil weight, the TSB is for 5w40 which is what people have run for years to help reduce smoke. So grab you Tribodyn, Royal purple or Penzoil ulra plat and put in 5w40 and toss it in. If that does not help you can use a oil restrictor bolt which is a BANDAID at this point in time you need to replace the turbo as the seals are shot but it will buy you some time until you can.
 
Awafrican said:
Not so much about the oil type any of the top 3 will do well, its about the oil weight, the TSB is for 5w40 which is what people have run for years to help reduce smoke. So grab you Tribodyn, Royal purple or Penzoil ulra plat and put in 5w40 and toss it in. If that does not help you can use a oil restrictor bolt which is a BANDAID at this point in time you need to replace the turbo as the seals are shot but it will buy you some time until you can.
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So if I've been running 5w-40 brotella ever since I got the car, would dropping to 5w-30 and checking for oil consumption give me an indication of if the turbo's on it's way out?
 
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