Haven’t been on here in a minute but still keep in touch with a lot of the guys.
In April I picked up a 2019 Bullitt. I was looking for a 18+ PP1 GT but this Bullitt has literally every option from a GT Premium - 12 speaker B&O, heated cooled seats, blind spot, digital cluster, mag ride shocks, active exhaust, PP1 package. In addition to the standard GT it comes stock with a GT350 Intake manifold/throttle body/intake. So for the few extra dollars (for real it was like well within 10% of a basic bitch PP1) it seemed like a no brainer.
drove it stock for a minute then threw the sink at it. I mostly spend time in 7000 feet DA with no E85 so NA build seemed wasted. At sea level, bolt on 10a cars make almost 500 whp and run 10s. Absolute nuts. But forced induction was for me. I wanted to keep the manageable power delivery and also keep my GT350 intake mani/tb. I also wanted a separate drive system. So that left me with procharger.
did a P1X with kooks 1 7/8” headers and green cats along with a corsa X pipe. Baseline was 424, now makes 623. It was tuned by palm beach dyno with their U cal. The work was done at cordes in Phoenix.
Just got the car back last night. Had some issues with weird rattling and noises after install. The shop stopped what they were doing and re racked the car like 3 times. We found an extension left by whoever did the battery right before I took it to the shop, primary that needed a little clearance-ing, and a collector clamp that could use tightened. There’s still a noise/vibration but I think it was there before and I never noticed. Shop thinks it’s a strut top. Like 3 of the guys drove it and that’s what we all think. Part of the fender liner is gone now due to the long tubes so makes sense it would be louder now. And I’m hypersensitive to it after the work and other noises.
I feel bad wasting their time with a pre existing issue but we didn’t know, and they really didn’t either. Owner said “yep that’s a new noise, didn’t notice that on my road test” real happy with how they handled the situation. Speaks volumes about their work. All the bolts on the procharger have torque paint and the owner was SUPER communicative with me during install. These guys are a serious shop. They have Cleetus’s C7 in right now. And they treated me every bit as good as their 1000+ whp ZL1 and Z06 builds.
so onto the car. It’s loud…. A little too loud for my liking. But it doesn’t drone at all in quiet mode so it’s livable. Might see if resonators can be added. originally I wasn’t going to do headers so I opted for the X pipe. But then I decided on headers too for efficiency.
The power is super manageable. It feels like a stock car with a bit more torque down low. The procharger really shines up top, like 6000-8000 rpm. I’ve only done one hit. It was a 3rd gear roll and man it just pulls harder and harder as it revs higher. This setup on a 10a car would be absolutely insane. Since I’m PP1 I have 3.73 but might need to go up to 4.09. The car is fast but top of 3rd is 130 now. Hard to use the power. 4.09 would lower the speeds and add some torque.
other mods on the way are a steeda subframe bushing support system, subframe alignment pins, and BMR vertical links. I haven’t had traction issues yet but I’m sure if I hit it in 1st or 2nd I will, and this should eliminate wheelhop.
I also have the center gauges from a GT350 on the way. My track pack gauge is oil pressure and vacuum. Vac was useless before and now it’s extra useless. The GT350 has oil pressure and oil temp. One kinda weird but beat thing is the oil temp is inferred, no sensor. Uses oil pressure, load, coolant temp etc. to spit out a temp on the gauge. But should be fine for me. I just want to know oil is warm enough or not too hot for pulls. My smooth brain can’t calculate temp from pressure on the fly
In April I picked up a 2019 Bullitt. I was looking for a 18+ PP1 GT but this Bullitt has literally every option from a GT Premium - 12 speaker B&O, heated cooled seats, blind spot, digital cluster, mag ride shocks, active exhaust, PP1 package. In addition to the standard GT it comes stock with a GT350 Intake manifold/throttle body/intake. So for the few extra dollars (for real it was like well within 10% of a basic bitch PP1) it seemed like a no brainer.
drove it stock for a minute then threw the sink at it. I mostly spend time in 7000 feet DA with no E85 so NA build seemed wasted. At sea level, bolt on 10a cars make almost 500 whp and run 10s. Absolute nuts. But forced induction was for me. I wanted to keep the manageable power delivery and also keep my GT350 intake mani/tb. I also wanted a separate drive system. So that left me with procharger.
did a P1X with kooks 1 7/8” headers and green cats along with a corsa X pipe. Baseline was 424, now makes 623. It was tuned by palm beach dyno with their U cal. The work was done at cordes in Phoenix.
Just got the car back last night. Had some issues with weird rattling and noises after install. The shop stopped what they were doing and re racked the car like 3 times. We found an extension left by whoever did the battery right before I took it to the shop, primary that needed a little clearance-ing, and a collector clamp that could use tightened. There’s still a noise/vibration but I think it was there before and I never noticed. Shop thinks it’s a strut top. Like 3 of the guys drove it and that’s what we all think. Part of the fender liner is gone now due to the long tubes so makes sense it would be louder now. And I’m hypersensitive to it after the work and other noises.
I feel bad wasting their time with a pre existing issue but we didn’t know, and they really didn’t either. Owner said “yep that’s a new noise, didn’t notice that on my road test” real happy with how they handled the situation. Speaks volumes about their work. All the bolts on the procharger have torque paint and the owner was SUPER communicative with me during install. These guys are a serious shop. They have Cleetus’s C7 in right now. And they treated me every bit as good as their 1000+ whp ZL1 and Z06 builds.
so onto the car. It’s loud…. A little too loud for my liking. But it doesn’t drone at all in quiet mode so it’s livable. Might see if resonators can be added. originally I wasn’t going to do headers so I opted for the X pipe. But then I decided on headers too for efficiency.
The power is super manageable. It feels like a stock car with a bit more torque down low. The procharger really shines up top, like 6000-8000 rpm. I’ve only done one hit. It was a 3rd gear roll and man it just pulls harder and harder as it revs higher. This setup on a 10a car would be absolutely insane. Since I’m PP1 I have 3.73 but might need to go up to 4.09. The car is fast but top of 3rd is 130 now. Hard to use the power. 4.09 would lower the speeds and add some torque.
other mods on the way are a steeda subframe bushing support system, subframe alignment pins, and BMR vertical links. I haven’t had traction issues yet but I’m sure if I hit it in 1st or 2nd I will, and this should eliminate wheelhop.
I also have the center gauges from a GT350 on the way. My track pack gauge is oil pressure and vacuum. Vac was useless before and now it’s extra useless. The GT350 has oil pressure and oil temp. One kinda weird but beat thing is the oil temp is inferred, no sensor. Uses oil pressure, load, coolant temp etc. to spit out a temp on the gauge. But should be fine for me. I just want to know oil is warm enough or not too hot for pulls. My smooth brain can’t calculate temp from pressure on the fly
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