BPV Boost Leak??

Porterhouse07

Greenie N00B Member
So I've had a lot of trouble so far with my SSQV4 w/CPE kit that I installed and I need some input.

First issue was that I didn't have the snap ring fully seated so it blew the valve out of the flange. Obviously user error. Got a new o-ring from Edge, reinstalled, problem solved.

Now that I have it installed correctly for about 300 miles, I seem to be running extremely rich when I shift or let out of the throttle, which I thought was odd considering that I didn't run that rich when I had my 50/50 valve installed. Under part throttle, when I let off, my AFR drops down to the 9's. The car will bog down a little and then kick back up to 14.7ish. Idle AFR holds well at 14.7. My LTFTs have slipped down to -7 and go further negative week to week. I have lost 2mpg as well. I am also getting some afterfires when shifting that are larger than with the 50/50 valve. I have checked all connections and they are tight. The valve is tight in the flange and all vacuum lines are in good shape.

I talked with my tuner (Freek) and he suspects a boost leak somewhere. How do I check for a leak and what tools do I need to do it? Or does anyone know of anything else I can check for?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
Basically you'll need:

- Closed PCV pipe end
- Silicone coupler to attach said PCV pipe end to your turbo inlet.
- Your choice of air input method (bike pump, air compressor, etc) and the fitting to attach it to the PCV pipe end.

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Then pressurize your system to 20psi or so and spray soapy water and look for bubbles.

You can also purchase them fully assembled for 20-30 bucks.
 
To add to Neganox, these videos are pretty good too.


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and

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The videos describe the pieces used. You are looking at Home Depot/Lowes for most parts. You can source the couplers from local nator probably or ebay. silioneintakes.com is another place to look at for a coupler if needed.

PVC pipe, coupler, air valve and teflon tape.
 
Ahh yea. Duh. Thanks. Was just curious. I'll get this done and see what I can find out. Hopefully this weekend
[doublepost=1462992507][/doublepost]So random thought. Could I just remove the hot pipe and connect the tester to the vertical pipe that runs next to the IM? This obviously bypasses the turbo but the suspect area is around the BPV.
 
So I am awaiting the leak tester to arrive. In the meantime, I put my 50/50 valve back on the fuel trims went back to normal.

I was thinking that maybe the recirc hose was putting too much pressure on the valve in the flange and causing a tiny leak. So I put the valve on in VTA. Same thing. LTFTs went back to -8. It's obviously something related to the valve itself. Everything else about the car is normal. It runs good and trims are normal except for at idle. Hopefully I can figure this out when the tester arrives.
 
So I got the leak tester in and it finally quit raining. Hooked it up and could find nothing wrong. Started with the 5psi test and couldn't hear anything. The pressure dropped slowly as expected. Went up to 15psi and still nothing. So I put my 50/50 valve back on and I'll just stick with it.
 
I had a lot of compressor surge issues with the HKS valve under low load, everyday driving. I tried everything to fix it but nothing worked. Bitch would flutter like a god damn turkey after every shift an cause the worst AFR's. I sold it after a week and bought a Cobb XLE. I haven't had a single issue since.
 
I had a lot of compressor surge issues with the HKS valve under low load, everyday driving. I tried everything to fix it but nothing worked. Bitch would flutter like a god damn turkey after every shift an cause the worst AFR's. I sold it after a week and bought a Cobb XLE. I haven't had a single issue since.
Did it flutter bad and buck at wot?
 
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