Broken injector seals

GOTTHEFUZZ

GOTTHEFUZZ

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
The title pretty much says it all, my injector seals are dead, and I was wondering just how fast can you really fix it? I mean after watching a video of the process it looks pretty easy, but most people are saying it's a two day job, so what's the hold up?

And is the whole Toyota seals thing really true? Or should I shell out the big bucks and buy the CS ones?

Oh and lastly how bad is it that I drive the car around on vacuum only, I can only hear it under 15+psi

Sooooo here's a doozy, who here in central Florida is willing to help me replace my crappy stock injector seals?

I'll buy you dinner, and fill it with lots of love
 

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Buy the CS ones. Toyota are pretty hit or miss on how long they'll last.

It's not too bad of a process but the bolts that hold down the crows feet sometimes strip because they're torx bolts for some retarded reason. If that happens you'll waste a ton of time trying to get them out.
 
You may as well replace the bolts for studs while in there. Assuming you dont end up having to replace anyways due to a broken/fucked bolt. ARP 400-8004 is what was recommended on the other place. Works just fine.

Edit: Also, if you dont explode by next weekend I may be available to assist.
 
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jsmith said:
You may as well replace the bolts for studs while in there. Assuming you dont end up having to replace anyways due to a broken/fucked bolt. ARP 400-8004 is what was recommended on the other place. Works just fine.

Edit: Also, if you dont explode by next weekend I may be available to assist.
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Do the bolts commonly break/strip? And do you think this would be my second blown motor?
 
Yes, they are a commonish issue. As are the torx bits breaking off in them. I've never driven with seals I could "hear" so..I dont know.
 
Yeah I could see it being a pain if they broke inside, as for how the engine is, I haven't seen any knock which although is a good thing it also worries me because I normally would see a .43kr during a drive to work and back, and this time it was 0.0 the whole way.

I pretty much drove it in vacuum when I figured out what it was. It seems to only rattle at 8+psi, even then I'm not going to risk hitting boost at all.

I'll probably revert to the OTS safe tune too.
 
Start soaking those bolts with pb blaster now. I started soaking mine like a week or two before I replaced my seals and had no issues pulling them out. Also make sure you have an injector removal tool. 3 of mine came out fine without it but one needed that tool bad.
 
Yea 0 isn't anything to be concerned about either. If you're concerned about the health of your engine then do a leakdown test.
 
Question, does the coolant temperature sensor have anything to do with the computer reading Kr?

Edit, I'm on CS's page for the injector seals, and of course there's more to it, but do injectors often get stuck in the head? I know you guys just told me to hit it with PB blaster now.
 
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GOTTHEFUZZ said:
Question, does the coolant temperature sensor have anything to do with the computer reading Kr?

Edit, I'm on CS's page for the injector seals, and of course there's more to it, but do injectors often get stuck in the head? I know you guys just told me to hit it with PB blaster now.
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You spray the torx bolt not the injector. And id say more often then not an injector gets stuck in the head.
 
It’s hit or miss. At least CS sells a puller


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
neganox said:
Don't use a puller. Show those injectors who has the manly forearms.
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You would have never been able to pull my stuck injector. Guaranteed. Took a solid 3 or 4 good hits with the injector tool to get it out.
 
So I ended up just shelling out the big bucks to get the CS ones just because I want this to sorta be a one and done type of thing. I ended up not getting the puller just because I put those injectors in 3-4 months ago when I did the engine swap, so I'm kinda crossing my fingers that they're loose enough.

I suppose I could update you guys when it's all done with.
 
It is not a 2 day job. Just have patience so you don't fuck anything up, and clean everything well before reassembling.

For the crows feet, soak in PB blaster like everyone suggested and give each bolt some very light love taps with a hammer. Make sure the Torx socket is sitting completely flush on the bolt head before attempting to break loose. I know it sounds like common sense, but you would be surprised at some people.

If you're not going to use a tool for pulling the injectors, have an assortment of vice grips. You will want to rotate the injectors and SLOWLY pull up as you do, so you don't botch them up. This will be the longest part of your day.

When removing the fuel rail make sure you have all the seals accounted for on the rail side. There are blue Orings, and a nylon snap ring that holds them in place.

Good choice on the corksport seals, they are tough and virtually idiot proof. Worth every penny.
 
I would suggest just pulling the trigger on the o-rings and grommets while you're in there. It's a dumb expense for those o-rings but worth the piece of mind in my opinion
 
If you pop one of the various orings I have spares. Wasn't a problem when I pulled mine.
 
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