Built Speed6 w/ Meth Injected S4. The Dragon Slayer Setup.

N

Nox

Greenie N00B Member
Havent made the switch over to MSO yet but let this be the start. It will also be on MSF so if you reply to one thread, dont worry about replying on the other. I'll transpose whats needed and keep the second post updated.

This wont be like most builds and I could use any and all advices! Everyone is going for big power these days. Its impressive and I love it. But that doesn't suit my needs nor long-term desires. I carve the tail of the dragon twice a year and I need that quick spool and sharp engine response. I will also start to autocross despite, with this setup, being in a retarded class. All that said, here are my prerequisites for this build:

- 450 AWHP
- Strong focus on turbo spool and engine response
- 100k+ mile motor life
- Daily driveability must be maintained

With my current mods, which I'll list, Vdyno puts me around 375awhp/385awtq: BNR S3v2, AP V3, Autotechs, 3" HTP SRI, ETS TMIC, DO Meth D07 @ 100%, ACT6 Puck w/ Streetlight FW, Turbosmart BPV, SLS Test Pipe, Bosch 3Bar, Grimspeed EBCS. Miltuned.

So you know where I'm at now and what I want in the future. Heres how I hope to get there:

Motor
- E-btech built motor. Rated for 700hp.
- I am considering having the head ported to increase flow. Thoughts? What real-world benefit would I see?
- I would like to keep the balance shaft intact. Because daily driver. How much of a difference does this make on engine response?
- I need to pass emissions. So I can only delete one code in ATR, and cannot have a CEL. If downpipe 02 doesn't need deleting I can pull the EGR or swap in a ported stock intake mani. (VTCS delete throws CEL)

Turbo
- BNR S4
- For spool and fuck oil drain line fabbing and heater hose leaks.

Clutch
- Keeping the sprung ACT6 Puck w/ Streetlight FW.

Intake
- HTP 4" SRI
- Battery to the trunk
- Ported Stock Intake Mani - only if my downpipe does not require code delete in ATR. Because emissions.

Exhaust
- Full Race Exhaust Mani w/ 2k degree ceramic coating & wrapped
- 3" Ebay DP
- CS 80mm Catless Dual Exhaust

Fuel
- Cooling Mist Meth Stage 3 w/ Failsafe Box

Other
- CPE Injector Seals
- Guardian Angel
- If at all possible, I want to keep the TMIC

There will also be more Suspension Changes:
- BC Racing rear perches w/ 700lb springs
- Racing Beat 28.5mm MS6 Front Sway Bar
- SPC Adjustable Front Camber Arms
- Adjustable Rear Camber Arms (is there a real benefit here?)
- Stealing Clints second RSB late one night. Just gotta get @brohanna; on board to distract.

@Enki; and @phate; both have been the biggest influences on my setup plans. Enkis MZResponse thread and driving Clints retarded badass speed6. If you gents have any suggestions or can shoot any holes in my plans I would greatly appreciate it.

Anything that will help me spool faster and have sharper engine response I would love to hear. Any concerns anyone has, please speak up. The motor may be e-btec built, but the car is NATOR inspired and NATOR built!
 
Don't wrap the exhaust mani. Though you don't really need the ceramic either, it will further reduce engine bay temps; the nickel steel that FR uses in their manis doesn't radiate much heat already, especially compared to the stock cast iron shit.

What are you considering good spool? The EFR 7163 will hit your boost target at/below 3k RPM, and still spin out past 7k.

By now everyone should know that anytime anyone says "response" I will always say "EFR." It's like that word association thing.
 
Enki said:
Don't wrap the exhaust mani. Though you don't really need the ceramic either, it will further reduce engine bay temps; the nickel steel that FR uses in their manis doesn't radiate much heat already, especially compared to the stock cast iron shit.

What are you considering good spool? The EFR 7163 will hit your boost target at/below 3k RPM, and still spin out past 7k.

By now everyone should know that anytime anyone says "response" I will always say "EFR." It's like that word association thing.
Click to expand...

Heat Wrap - Noted. I will not wrap the exhaust mani. Thank you. I wanted to get ceramic coating to try and help the baking of the TMIC thats inevitable.
Spool - I'm hopng for full boost by 3.5k rpms.
EFR sweetness - God knows I want an EFR. If I could stab someone in the neck for an installed EFR I would be shanking a bitch. But the price and more importantly install depth is way out of my scope. I've read your thread a couple times and no way am I on your install level. I would like to keep things as simple as possible.

Thank you for the input sir!
 
Also, 450 AWHP is asking much from a TMIC flow wise, but if you have a CPE or better yet an ETS you *might* be able to get there. Worst case, you can have a custom TMIC and ducting made like what I'll be trying on my car.
[doublepost=1461631354][/doublepost]
Nox said:
I've read your thread a couple times and no way am I on your install level. I would like to keep things as simple as possible.
Click to expand...

Once you've done it once, it's not really that bad. Did another EFR install a few weeks ago and the kit has improved quite a bit.
 
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Enki said:
Also, 450 AWHP is asking much from a TMIC flow wise, but if you have a CPE or better yet an ETS you *might* be able to get there. Worst case, you can have a custom TMIC and ducting made like what I'll be trying on my car.
[doublepost=1461631354][/doublepost]

Once you've done it once, it's not really that bad. Did another EFR install a few weeks ago and the kit has improved quite a bit.
Click to expand...

I'm running the ETS TMIC. Otherwise I wouldn't even consider it. I believe 450 is its max rating. I know the Full Race mani is rated @ 500. Custom TMIC ducting you say......
 
Nox said:
- Racing Beat 28.5mm MS6 Front Sway Bar
Click to expand...
That's a lot of front bar that will need a lot of rear bar to compensate. I'll probably try out one of these eventually, but it may be too much bar and you could end pulling a wheel off the ground too easily.

Edit: The Steeda bar needed some "massaging" of the downpipe to get things to fit without interference. It looks like the RB bar may be more similar to OE than the Steeda, so it might not need much work. In any case, a custom downpipe or some custom hammer work on the dp might be necessary.

Nox said:
- SPC Adjustable Front Camber Arms
Click to expand...
Yes, but you just need the ball joints (SPC 67115).

Nox said:
- Adjustable Rear Camber Arms (is there a real benefit here?)
Click to expand...
I love these things. The car needs a lot of camber, a lot more than you think. These make camber adjustment pretty easy because they don't have any significant cross talk with toe, so you can change camber without worrying about anything else. Nice for when you need to dial in -5° in the rear, but don't want to run that on the street :)

Nox said:
- Stealing Clints second RSB late one night. Just gotta get @brohanna; on board to distract.
Click to expand...
No need to steal ;)
 
Nox said:
I'm running the ETS TMIC. Otherwise I wouldn't even consider it. I believe 450 is its max rating. I know the Full Race mani is rated @ 500. Custom TMIC ducting you say......
Click to expand...

Yeah I go over it a bit in my MZResponse thread here; all said and done I'll be the only one that can drive around with my hood off and still get normal cooling through the TMIC. Where I'm at now will require a totally custom mounting bracket, but that's OK because the stock shit is bulky and mostly in the way of a bunch of stuff.
 
phate said:
That's a lot of front bar that will need a lot of rear bar to compensate. I'll probably try out one of these eventually, but it may be too much bar and you could end pulling a wheel off the ground too easily.

Edit: The Steeda bar needed some "massaging" of the downpipe to get things to fit without interference. It looks like the RB bar may be more similar to OE than the Steeda, so it might not need much work. In any case, a custom downpipe or some custom hammer work on the dp might be necessary.

Yes, but you just need the ball joints (SPC 67115).

I love these things. The car needs a lot of camber, a lot more than you think. These make camber adjustment pretty easy because they don't have any significant cross talk with toe, so you can change camber without worrying about anything else. Nice for when you need to dial in -5° in the rear, but don't want to run that on the street :)

No need to steal ;)
Click to expand...
So much noted.
FSB - How would one make the rear more stiff than it already is? Whiteline is on the stiffest setting. I will be prepared to smack my downpipe up.
Adj Front Camber Arms - Noted on the ball joints.
Rear Camber Arms - I have no idea how to adjust my shit on my own. I have a lifetime alignment from Tires Plus lol. How does this affect your opinion? Would i just tell them what I want the rear set to? Sorry for my alignment ignorance.
Phates RSB - My heart skipped a beat...

Enki said:
Yeah I go over it a bit in my MZResponse thread here; all said and done I'll be the only one that can drive around with my hood off and still get normal cooling through the TMIC. Where I'm at now will require a totally custom mounting bracket, but that's OK because the stock shit is bulky and mostly in the way of a bunch of stuff.
Click to expand...

Oh snap. This I must see!
 
Nox said:
So much noted.
FSB - How would one make the rear more stiff than it already is? Whiteline is on the stiffest setting. I will be prepared to smack my downpipe up.
Adj Front Camber Arms - Noted on the ball joints.
Rear Camber Arms - I have no idea how to adjust my shit on my own. I have a lifetime alignment from Tires Plus lol. How does this affect your opinion? Would i just tell them what I want the rear set to? Sorry for my alignment ignorance.
Phates RSB - My heart skipped a beat...
Click to expand...

You'll need a bar similar to mine to make up for that huge front bar :D I'll shoot you a PM.

The rear arms thing is probably something I'd wait on. The camber adjustment available from the stock LCA adjuster will get you in the ball park while you figure the car out. Down the road, if you find that you're to a point where you need more camber or are interested in playing with alignment things, then consider the arms. If you can find an alignment shop that will work with your parts and do alignments to your specs, all the better even if you don't have the arms.

Don't forget bushings! http://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/ms6-front-and-rear-polyurethane-suspension-bushings.887/
 
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phate said:
You'll need a bar similar to mine to make up for that huge front bar :D I'll shoot you a PM.

The rear arms thing is probably something I'd wait on. The camber adjustment available from the stock LCA adjuster will get you in the ball park while you figure the car out. Down the road, if you find that you're to a point where you need more camber or are interested in playing with alignment things, then consider the arms. If you can find an alignment shop that will work with your parts and do alignments to your specs, all the better even if you don't have the arms.

Don't forget bushings! http://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/ms6-front-and-rear-polyurethane-suspension-bushings.887/
Click to expand...

Noted on the rear control arms. I'll put them on hold until I know how to really utilize them.

THANK YOU FOR REMINDING ME ON THE BUSHINGS!! I forgot about that! How the hell did you press those bushings in??
 
You could use Pyrogel sheet on top of the manifold.
It can withstand a blowtorch directly and would definitely reduce the heat soak to the TMIC.

Sent from my Nexus 6P
 
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phate said:
I have a 12 ton press from harbor freight. Probably one of the best tool purchases I've ever made, I use it all the time.
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I've been considering getting one of those. Theyre under $200 if i remember right, Definitely worth it. What did the full bushing replacement end up costing you?
CmdrShepard said:
You could use Pyrogel sheet on top of the manifold.
It can withstand a blowtorch directly and would definitely reduce the heat soak to the TMIC.

Sent from my Nexus 6P
Click to expand...
Now thats something I would have never thought of. Lay a rubber gel mat on the mani lol. Its brilliant.
Enki said:
Or he could get his valve cover ceramic coated.
Click to expand...
You guys are blowing my mind with heat reduction ideas.
 
Nox said:
You guys are blowing my mind with heat reduction ideas.
Click to expand...
Wait till you see how low my BATs are with a TMIC after sitting in traffic for a few mins, no TIGs either. If my TMIC idea works out, lots of neckbeards will be stroked in contemplation.
 
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Nox said:
I've been considering getting one of those. Theyre under $200 if i remember right, Definitely worth it. What did the full bushing replacement end up costing you?
Click to expand...

I think I paid something like $110 for my press. It was on sale plus the 20% off one item coupon. A full bushing set is around $250 with shipping.

@Nox did you get the PM/Conversation thing?
 
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