Car not starting after mod installstion

[JoshNajmi]

So I recently went on a journey to installation a bunch of mods on to my car.

Mod list:

• KN Cold Air Intake System: https://www.knfilters.com/mazda/mazdaspeed3/2.3l-l4-gas/2010/
• Autotech High Pressure Fuel Pump
• NGK Iridium LTR7IX-11 Spark Plugs - Gapped to .026"
• Corksport Turbo Inlet Pipe: https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-turbo-inlet-pipe.html
• Cpe qkspl 3" catless downpipe: https://cp-e.com/shop/product/mazdaspeed3-qkspl-downpipe/
• Corksport ST4 Turbo: https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-3-turbocharger-upgrade.html
• Corksport Electronic Boost Control (Interrupt Mode): https://corksport.com/mazda-boost-control-solenoid.html
• Corksport Bypass valve: https://corksport.com/corksport-mazdaspeed-mzr-bypass-valve.html
• Corksport 3.5 bar map sensor: https://corksport.com/free-mazdaspeed-3.5-bar-map-sensor-pnp.html
• Damond Motorsports PCV plate
• Corksport Oil Catch Can: https://corksport.com/corksport-aluminum-oil-catch-can.html
• Corksport race rear motor mount: https://corksport.com/corksport-mazdaspeed-3-mazda-3-race-rear-motor-mount.html
• Corksport sway bar: https://corksport.com/corksport-mazda3-mazdaspeed-3-rear-adjustable-swaybar.html

After installing all of these mods, my car would not start up. The starter motor is kicking. Sounds like the engine is turning over and the fuel pressure went up to max 1300psi. After installing the autotec hpfp, I tried priming the fuel system by turning the car on 3 or 4 times without kicking the engine on. It still would not run.

Also, earlier in the day, I had just installed my new accessport v3 and flash tuned it with the OTS stage 2 map from Cobb. What could be the problem?

 

[L337TurboZ]

Damn dude thats a lot to do at one time. Props for doing all of that stuff but start with basics.

Check all your power and grounds
Are there any DTC's set?
Do you have fuel pressure going to the HPFP and if so what is it at?
Do you have spark?

You also HAVE to calibrate the MAP sensor in the tune. A different MAP reading will cause a car not to run properly or start.

 

[Solarsurge]

More than likely the MAP calibration or coil pack ground wire not connected. Either way, you are 100% in territory of needing a custom tune. OTS maps are not for you, my friend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoshNajmi]

So I actually just got a custom tune from Justin at freektune with all the mods considered. I flashed my ecu, so the map should be calibrated correctly right?

When I tried starting the car again, I was reading like 700 psi. When the ignition was on but engine not running, it was around 100psi. Is this normal? I was reading the corksport article on troubleshooting hpfp, they said I should be reading 55-71 psi at when ignition is on and engine off.

I haven't checked if I have spark but I do have them gapped wider at .026". What is the process for checking spark?

There were no dtcs when I checked after flashing the new tires and trying to start the car.

 

[Eroler1]

check the coil pack ground wire, its in the bracket where the two main harness is bolted down

 

[JoshNajmi]

check the coil pack ground wire, its in the bracket where the two main harness is bolted down

The coil pack ground wire is getting good connection. I even pulled a spark plug and checked for spark and it was good. So im kind of ruling out the spark.

The only other thing I can think of is the hpfp. I did put the autotec internals in. I can only think of accidentally doing the installation wrong or something. When I have the accessport plugged on with the engine off and ignition on, it was reading 60psi then I tried starting the car and it shot up to around 400psi. It would not start so I went back to key on, engine off and it stayed at 386psi. Is this normal? Could there be a problem with my installation?

Damn dude thats a lot to do at one time. Props for doing all of that stuff but start with basics.

Check all your power and grounds
Are there any DTC's set?
Do you have fuel pressure going to the HPFP and if so what is it at?
Do you have spark?

You also HAVE to calibrate the MAP sensor in the tune. A different MAP reading will cause a car not to run properly or start.

I have spark. I checked the ground coil pack wire and it is held on good and making ground connection.

My battery is kind of dying because of trying to kick it on multiple times. I'm charging it right now and going to try to kick it back on after it is fully charged.

Wires and hpfp fuses look good.

There were not dtcs that I read from the accessport.

Today when trying to kick on the car. The fuel pressure was at 65psi with key on engine off. Then after trying to kick on the engine, it shot up to around 400psi. My battery was low so I didn't get many turnovers out of the starter. After that, I went back to key on engine off and I was reading 386psi. I did read a higher psi when my battery was fully charged and I tried kicking over the other day. It maxed at around 1300psi but engine did not start.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Did you check spark with a spark tester or check a plug removed from the cylinder? Have you tried reinstalling the old MAP sensor and seeing if that changes anything?

 

[JoshNajmi]

Did you check spark with a spark tester or check a plug removed from the cylinder? Have you tried reinstalling the old MAP sensor and seeing if that changes anything?

I removed one plug and checked to see a spark and it was sparking. I tried the engine again and it caught idle for a sec but then died.

I haven't switched out for the old map sensor. I will try it.

 

[Binary Assault]

I currently have this issue and haven't had a chance to troubleshoot it. But, for me at least, it's probably a gross vacuum leak. My favorite overlooked vacuum leak is the PCV hose. People forget it all the time, or have a kink in it starving the engine of air.
Also, to clarify, the coil ground is (assuming) the ground on the bracket directly below the HPFP. It's pretty much the most common ground people have issues with.