Year/Make/Model: 2006 Mazda Speed 6
Mileage: 100'000 miles
Location: U.S
Concern:
DTC's: None
Modifications Cold Air Intake
ECU/Tuning Software: Cobb Access Port, currently no tune
Tuner: N/A
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs:
Correction:
Okay currently took the time this weekend to clean the valves. I followed the common guide on mazdaspeeds.org and watched the YouTube video by corksport.
I did not use the media blaster and just stuck with using b12 chem tool and long picks. I also redid the power steering system in the vehicle but I do not think this is related to the issue.
Car will crank but will not start. The following is what I have gathered or believe to be true.
I am very confident I did not drop anything into the engine. After removing the intake valve 4 was open and the other three were closed. I cleaned the first three and then manually rotated the crankshaft pully until valve 2 had opened and valve 4 was closed, i then repeated the process. Regardless I am confident that nothing fell past the valves.
There were no major complications when putting everything back together. Visually, I don't see any potential vacuum leaks or weak hose clamps, but I will admit I am not seasoned on this and may be missing something. If there is a potential vacuum leak, how to find it and where are common places that can occur.
Car is currently throwing no codes.
I double- checked the ground wire near the coil packs and ensured it was clean and tightly bolted.
Access port is showing throttle body position with 7-10%.
AP RPM is showing 114, dashboard tachometer is not moving.
Serpentine belt and crankshaft pulley are visibly moving while trying to start the car.
Battery is at 13.7 volts, also tried with other vehicle.
AFR is reading 14.85 and does not fluctuate from that value.
Cam sensor defintely reading the gears, I can hear it whurring when it senses a tooth.
Does the cam sensor have to be properly alligned in order to work? Could this be the issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, hoping to drive to work this weekend.
I haven't troubleshooted plugs, but I can't imagine why they would be acting up, all the coil packs are secure and properly plugged in.
Edit:
Some additional information:
I’ve had the nose end of the car jacked up for a few days.
I noticed on the crankshaft pulley/ harmonic balancer, there was a marking on pulley, that lined up with either the 20th or 21st gear tooth counterclockwise from the tooth gap. I rotated the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the cam sensor lined up with that tooth. After doing this,
It threw code P2088 once. I can smell fuel, and it sounds really close to starting, crank spark, combustion, it’s just not quite there.
Any help would be appreciated.
SOLVED
I accidentally figured it out by doing the following.
I jacked up the front passenger side of the car in hope of accessing the crankshaft pulley. While having only the passenger front jacked up, I figured I would try starting the car one more time. After about 5 seconds I was able to start the vehicle. There was lots of white smoke at first, definitely indicating that I got some of the cleaner into the engine. Most likely due to not having valve 4 at proper TDC. Car is running wayyyy better now, so glad I cleaned the valves. I did end up messing up the vtcs. But I will make a seperate thread for that issue. Thank you to everyone that helped, and if this post could be marked as solved to help people in the future.
Mileage: 100'000 miles
Location: U.S
Concern:
DTC's: None
Modifications Cold Air Intake
ECU/Tuning Software: Cobb Access Port, currently no tune
Tuner: N/A
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs:
Correction:
Okay currently took the time this weekend to clean the valves. I followed the common guide on mazdaspeeds.org and watched the YouTube video by corksport.
I did not use the media blaster and just stuck with using b12 chem tool and long picks. I also redid the power steering system in the vehicle but I do not think this is related to the issue.
Car will crank but will not start. The following is what I have gathered or believe to be true.
I am very confident I did not drop anything into the engine. After removing the intake valve 4 was open and the other three were closed. I cleaned the first three and then manually rotated the crankshaft pully until valve 2 had opened and valve 4 was closed, i then repeated the process. Regardless I am confident that nothing fell past the valves.
There were no major complications when putting everything back together. Visually, I don't see any potential vacuum leaks or weak hose clamps, but I will admit I am not seasoned on this and may be missing something. If there is a potential vacuum leak, how to find it and where are common places that can occur.
Car is currently throwing no codes.
I double- checked the ground wire near the coil packs and ensured it was clean and tightly bolted.
Access port is showing throttle body position with 7-10%.
AP RPM is showing 114, dashboard tachometer is not moving.
Serpentine belt and crankshaft pulley are visibly moving while trying to start the car.
Battery is at 13.7 volts, also tried with other vehicle.
AFR is reading 14.85 and does not fluctuate from that value.
Cam sensor defintely reading the gears, I can hear it whurring when it senses a tooth.
Does the cam sensor have to be properly alligned in order to work? Could this be the issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, hoping to drive to work this weekend.
I haven't troubleshooted plugs, but I can't imagine why they would be acting up, all the coil packs are secure and properly plugged in.
Edit:
Some additional information:
I’ve had the nose end of the car jacked up for a few days.
I noticed on the crankshaft pulley/ harmonic balancer, there was a marking on pulley, that lined up with either the 20th or 21st gear tooth counterclockwise from the tooth gap. I rotated the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the cam sensor lined up with that tooth. After doing this,
It threw code P2088 once. I can smell fuel, and it sounds really close to starting, crank spark, combustion, it’s just not quite there.
Any help would be appreciated.
SOLVED
I accidentally figured it out by doing the following.
I jacked up the front passenger side of the car in hope of accessing the crankshaft pulley. While having only the passenger front jacked up, I figured I would try starting the car one more time. After about 5 seconds I was able to start the vehicle. There was lots of white smoke at first, definitely indicating that I got some of the cleaner into the engine. Most likely due to not having valve 4 at proper TDC. Car is running wayyyy better now, so glad I cleaned the valves. I did end up messing up the vtcs. But I will make a seperate thread for that issue. Thank you to everyone that helped, and if this post could be marked as solved to help people in the future.
Last edited: