CEL b1317, and p2504.

FactServed2nd

FactServed2nd

Gold Member
I am throwing codes on the generation side of my electrical system. I am overcharging when under load and throwing the b1317, and p2504. Other than that the 3" turbo back exhaust and everything has this car sounding fantastic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How many miles on this car? My alternator shit the bed around 125,000. Also if you removed the heat shield from it you'll definitely speed up its death.
 
Sorry about that, little background just had the engine replaced and also replaced the accessories, PS,AC,ALT, Battery I figured why not start all the way fresh. Though the battery replacement came because the shop cracked my battery that was only 1 year old. Replaced it with R51.
 
This morning found my new battery dead so there is a drag on the car. I went and checked all the connections on the alternator and battery. Cleared the codes jumped it and drove it for 7 miles. Came back, turned it off, back on and pulled the same codes though the battery warning light did not come on until the end of the 7 mile trip.
 
Easter Bunny said:
Still this
Click to expand...

Mtnbker3531 said:
Yup low voltage will cause all kinds of havoc with codes!
Click to expand...

Yes the battery and alternator both tested good according to the dealership that just checked it yesterday (Tuesday). I am thinking the brand new battery maybe toast now because the battery was spitting out the vents after the test drives, so I am taking the spare alternator I have and installing it tonight while I trickle charge my battery. I think that the alternator installed has an issue regulating itself, or there is also a possibility that there is a short in the wiring harness. What is stumping me right now is where the drain is. I am thinking about ordering a new harness so I can start fresh and make some looming jigs to make a cleaner wiring solution. I like wiring when I can start the project on my terms.
 
When the engine was replaced did they remove the front crash bar, radiator mounting, and remove motor from front or drop from above? The Sixers wire loom for the alternator goes from left vender all the way over to the right side so alternator is connected. That harness can be pia since the battery acid drips down on to it and eats up the wiring.PXL_20220814_193210047.jpg PXL_20220814_190248868~2.jpg PXL_20220814_191054517.jpg PXL_20220814_190125711.jpg PXL_20220814_190629523.jpg
 
Ok well I found the problem. Bad rectifier or module on the alternator. After removal during testing, it would test fine until a load was applied. The alternator would then try to lock up, bucking against the testing machine. I also found solder in the bottom of the alternator shroud and between the heat sink flutes on the plug module.
 
Glad to hear you found a problem part. Make sure since the fault and evidence of failure means high currents were involved. Things that melt are not a good indicator --- sometimes it's also something else. The fuses in the high current battery wire from the alt +batt connection to fuse box and the wire to attaches to battery post circuit could be suspects. Inspection with eyes, tugging on wires into connectors, feeling the wiring sheath for abnormal defects.
Most important is don't just replace alternator and be done. Unless you double check that charging current is working correctly. Normal type automotive battery fully charged open terminal is 12.6-12.8. When you have a fully charged battery and engine is idle no accessories on, battery voltage should be around 14-14.5 volts. Above this and a known good fully charged battery means the alternator is charging higher then necessary. Above 15 volts at any time is a sign that something else is still causing trouble.
 
Cfoldone said:
Glad to hear you found a problem part. Make sure since the fault and evidence of failure means high currents were involved. Things that melt are not a good indicator --- sometimes it's also something else. The fuses in the high current battery wire from the alt +batt connection to fuse box and the wire to attaches to battery post circuit could be suspects. Inspection with eyes, tugging on wires into connectors, feeling the wiring sheath for abnormal defects.
Most important is don't just replace alternator and be done. Unless you double check that charging current is working correctly. Normal type automotive battery fully charged open terminal is 12.6-12.8. When you have a fully charged battery and engine is idle no accessories on, battery voltage should be around 14-14.5 volts. Above this and a known good fully charged battery means the alternator is charging higher then necessary. Above 15 volts at any time is a sign that something else is still causing trouble.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input and hope you come over to my build thread once I get it going. I have inspected the whole harness and I believe that I thought the harness is showing its age it is in working condition and being kept in Houston seemed to do it favors. I am planning on replacing the harness shortly just to be on the safe side. Then I will be using my wiring harness to start building a wiring loom board for our speeds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top