Chemmedic builds a thing.

Any thoughts on who I should tune with?

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So im going to steel some of @chemmedic s thunder partially because I'm an ass, and partially because we need some help. So friday, car started up wonderfully! no check engine lights, only power steering was leaking, fixed today. Car sat all weekend, today topped up power steering, still not enough fluid left in bottle ugh, will get more tomorrow.

now we've hit 2 issues: 1) cant get into 2,4,6 gear, bled slave. get into 1,3,5 and R perfect, 2,4,6 better but hard / ?am i even in. checked shifter linkage, appears to be hooked up correctly. I suspect we are missing something here, question is what?

so we are able to go for a little drive around the lot, 1st gear with some second when we start hearing a noise, thinking its coming from power steering pump, noise worse while driving def better, almost gone at rest, when engine idles higher we hear it a little more

see attached for shitty vid hopefully you can catch noise.
Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.

Any help / advise would be wonderful. really hoping the noise is just low power steering fluid
 
Chemmedic said:
Want to talk about stealing thunder? This guy hops into the driver seat as soon as it had wheels on it and drives out the front door. Fucken guy popped my cars cherry!
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Yeah, that one I do feel bad about, I owe you a few drinks for that to say the least.
 
Good luck on working out the kinks, looking forward to seeing this beast in person, when ever we get our meet going.
 
Enki said:
Did you guys do anything to the trans/shifter linkage at all?
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Chemmedic said:
No I don't think so, but maybe somehow it got out of alignment with all the work that has been done. I will play with that tomorrow.
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Not intentionally or that we noticed, we can get it into gear, it's just hard and you don't get that nice pop/ click into that you should. Even with the engine off.
 
Nothing rubbing against the shift arms on the transmission? Check for cable bind and all that with someone in the car and someone looking at the trans?
 
Enki said:
Nothing rubbing against the shift arms on the transmission? Check for cable bind and all that with someone in the car and someone looking at the trans?
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There was a little bit of movement in the cable visually but nothing major, no rubbing that could see
 
Can you actuate the shift tree with little effort? Try to narrow down if the issue is the trans or the shifter.
 
Enki said:
Can you actuate the shift tree with little effort? Try to narrow down if the issue is the trans or the shifter.
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Haven't tried with the cables off the shift tree, pulling towards bumper I pressume 1,3,5 is easy, R is pretty good but not as good, pushing back wards is hard, but it'll go in, feels like it's not all the way in, don't get a nice click. Haven't tried with cables off will try tonight
 
Chemmedic said:
All better, greased the shifter cables. PS pump was topped up and that noise went away too. Probably ready for a street test tomorrow.
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Glad you guys figured it out, and it was something simple. let us know how the road test goes.
 
In the process of tuning. Haven't given her boost yet. Pulled a p0012 Camsahft A over retard code. Was doing a no boost 2nd gear pull. Didn't go over 4500rpm. Anyone have any experience with it?
 
Have you tired cleaning the sensor? Not sure how easy it is to get at, but iv seen dirty sensors throw codes before

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Time to resurrect this thread, if anyone is interested.

So to re-cap, drove an old 07 into the ground and decided to do an engine build.

Spent last summer tuning it/and breaking the engine in. No major track days or drag days. Here was the last datalog from last year before I parked the car for the winter.

Image log 3.jpg

Not looking too bad. No way to say with confidence what the correct value is, but I would be surprised if it is off by more than +/- 10%. Seat Dyno says that number feels about right.

Anyways, what I want out of the build after all is reliability and longevity, so figuring out what my output is really isn't my number one priority.

I've also been doing UOA with blackstone. Here were the first two results,

07 MZR-071316 (1 safe).png

07 MZR-161109 (2 safe).png

So not good news, but not panic inducing either. Probably just the turbo wearing in still, or the engine is taking longer to wear in than expected.

Here is where it gets complicated again. So I unfortunately I had to move in the early spring for a temporary job, so I didn't have much time or opportunities to have fun with the vehicle or really iron out what this issue was. What I did do however was pull my oil in the spring, and set aside that sample for testing, knowing that I might have an Aluminum issue. Then I did something stupid, and I lost the sample. Oh well no worries right? It was probably nothing anyways. So I kept driving the car, in particular long commutes on weekends to be with the GF. At this time, car was pulling like stink, putting alot of smiles on the faces of a few people when I had a chance to show off.

Night drive with friends.gif

Note the grip of death from the blond in the back.

Actually, on that drive I hit a pothole, destroyed my right wheel, right suspension, and right CV axle. Too much weight I guess and time for new suspension. But that's another story.

So after getting a temporary fix in place 1300$ later, the next week, on a whim, I had a free afternoon and I went to the autoclub and decided that it was a good time to do a compression test, as I hadn't done one since I got the engine in, and not only should I get a baseline, I really should make sure there are no issues.

Horror of horrors, here were my results;
Cyl 1 - 125 150W
Cyl 2 - 115 130W
Cyl 3 - 120 140W
Cyl 4 - 155 160W

I'll just let that sink in.

Come to think of it, I had to top up my oil.... I mean, I knew I had a slow leak, one of my buried tubes probably just not tight enough, and when I checked the valve cover it needed tightening, not to mention I'm using 5W40 and I know that it seeps through seals in how weather..... then I remembered that Aluminum issue from Blackstone.....

To be continued.....
[doublepost=1501955048][/doublepost]So after one very sleepless night, I went to the local hardware store and bought a new compression tester.

Here were the new results;
Cyl 1 - 185 185W
Cyl 2 - 165 170W
Cyl 3 - 165 170W
Cyl 4 - 185 185W

I also made sure my battery was fresh (I have a golf cart battery after all) as last time I'm pretty sure it was getting weak during testing.

So thank god looks like a bad tester. There is a possibility that the head gasket is leaking a little, as you can see 2 and 3 are both low by about the same amount so the leak could be between them.

Spark plugs are also showing a little on the lean side. Probably due to my tune being more for fall temps and not summer. So I'm still pretty spooked needless so say, so I pretty much put a moratorium on my right foot.

Some more good news, that oil sample I pulled in April has re-appeared, and I have another summer oil change to add to it. Oil leak also seems much slower after tightening the valve cover back down, so that is good.

Well, after two weeks of waiting, here are the two new results from Blackstone,

07 MZR-170430 (3 safe).png 07 MZR-170630 (4 safe).png

Okay. Panic can finally end. Looks like everything is on track after all.

Got some new purchases on the way to celebrate now that I know I don't have a lemon. JBR coilovers and a EONON head unit. Once in it's time for some more data logging (I can't do them ATM due to the bad right front side suspension, I'm getting tons of wheel hop so it's not safe/accurate anyways)
 
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