Cranks but no start. No Spark

Rotarynerd

Rotarynerd

Greenie N00B Member
Hello all,
I'm hoping someone can help me.
Problem: No spark, no codes (more details below)

I just recently put a used motor in my gen 1 speed 3.
I've been trying to trace a no start problem and cannot figure it out.
When I first started the car up, I was showing a P0091 code (fuel pressure regulator control circuit low voltage). The locking tab on the harness connector going to the HPFP was broken but it still sealed so figure it was okay. Followed the workshop manual diagnostics and made sure I didn't have a short or open circuit. I'm getting battery voltage when using a volt meter on the pins on the harness (KOEO) Manually powered the HPFP and you can hear it functioning. Freaked out because after all those steps, it tells you to replace PCM.
After recomposing my self, I decided to use gator clips and a probe to jump the harness pins to the pins on the HPFP. P0091 code went away instantly sweet!
HPFP internals are Corksport and when I inspected before installing onto the used motor, everything look brand new.

But, still no start. Then I pulled out my spark tester and lo and behold, no spark.
SO, I double checked my CKP. Put into TDC and on the 20th tooth.
I know for a fact that when I did the timing, I used the peg and plate supplied by Edgeautosports (which only fits one way, when cyl 1 is at TDC. I also made sure to use the crank alignment bolt and not just eyeball it as well.
I replaced the CPS with another spare I had laying around off a running car, still no start. (same with CKP)
I'm assuming I'm getting fuel as I smell it around the car when trying to start.
All fuses are good in the engine bay.

Some other info when I was looking at gauges through my Cobb AP when diagnosing the P0091 issue:
I see HPFP pressure reaching 1000psi
HPFP sense voltage was 0

I have a few questions.
1.) What else on these cars prevents spark that I can check?

2.) Am I getting a false positive on the HPFP by jumping the wires with alligator clips or am I safe to assume its the semi broken connector? I know the manual says its Continuously Monitored but doesn't mention it being a CAN BUS wire so it should be okay right?

3.) The motor I put into the speed 3 was off of a cx7. From what I could find, sensors and stuff should all be the same. Just the tune and a turbo specific to the cx7. Is that true or am I having sensor compatibility issues somewhere?
4.) The car came with a CST4, corksport 3.5 bar and full bolt ons, actually tuned by stratified or freektune, (can't remember and Cobb AP is with the car). Am I better to try to start the car with the stock tune first or continue with the tune that's on it? I haven't bothered with the stock map just because of all the parts on it.

Thank you in advance!
 
Rotarynerd said:
Hello all,
I'm hoping someone can help me.
Problem: No spark, no codes (more details below)

I just recently put a used motor in my gen 1 speed 3.
I've been trying to trace a no start problem and cannot figure it out.
When I first started the car up, I was showing a P0091 code (fuel pressure regulator control circuit low voltage). The locking tab on the harness connector going to the HPFP was broken but it still sealed so figure it was okay. Followed the workshop manual diagnostics and made sure I didn't have a short or open circuit. I'm getting battery voltage when using a volt meter on the pins on the harness (KOEO) Manually powered the HPFP and you can hear it functioning. Freaked out because after all those steps, it tells you to replace PCM.
After recomposing my self, I decided to use gator clips and a probe to jump the harness pins to the pins on the HPFP. P0091 code went away instantly sweet!
HPFP internals are Corksport and when I inspected before installing onto the used motor, everything look brand new.

But, still no start. Then I pulled out my spark tester and lo and behold, no spark.
SO, I double checked my CKP. Put into TDC and on the 20th tooth.
I know for a fact that when I did the timing, I used the peg and plate supplied by Edgeautosports (which only fits one way, when cyl 1 is at TDC. I also made sure to use the crank alignment bolt and not just eyeball it as well.
I replaced the CPS with another spare I had laying around off a running car, still no start. (same with CKP)
I'm assuming I'm getting fuel as I smell it around the car when trying to start.
All fuses are good in the engine bay.

Some other info when I was looking at gauges through my Cobb AP when diagnosing the P0091 issue:
I see HPFP pressure reaching 1000psi
HPFP sense voltage was 0

I have a few questions.
1.) What else on these cars prevents spark that I can check?

2.) Am I getting a false positive on the HPFP by jumping the wires with alligator clips or am I safe to assume its the semi broken connector? I know the manual says its Continuously Monitored but doesn't mention it being a CAN BUS wire so it should be okay right?

3.) The motor I put into the speed 3 was off of a cx7. From what I could find, sensors and stuff should all be the same. Just the tune and a turbo specific to the cx7. Is that true or am I having sensor compatibility issues somewhere?
4.) The car came with a CST4, corksport 3.5 bar and full bolt ons, actually tuned by stratified or freektune, (can't remember and Cobb AP is with the car). Am I better to try to start the car with the stock tune first or continue with the tune that's on it? I haven't bothered with the stock map just because of all the parts on it.

Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...

Good diagnostics on your part. Did the no start occur AFTER you started messing around with the HPFP?

1. There are several places but first answer this:
a. Does the engine have a healthy crank? If so is it a constant crank or can you hear it stumble/try to start?
b. I do not know what spark tester you used, but are all 4 cylinders showing no spark?
2. If you can smell the fuel and confirmed no spark, I would forget about the fuel system for now.
3. CX7 engine should be okay
4. For diagnostic purposes you can try flashing a different map, just make sure you aren't going to drive it around with an incompatible map.
 
The_big_dill said:
Good diagnostics on your part. Did the no start occur AFTER you started messing around with the HPFP?

1. There are several places but first answer this:
a. Does the engine have a healthy crank? If so is it a constant crank or can you hear it stumble/try to start?
b. I do not know what spark tester you used, but are all 4 cylinders showing no spark?
2. If you can smell the fuel and confirmed no spark, I would forget about the fuel system for now.
3. CX7 engine should be okay
4. For diagnostic purposes you can try flashing a different map, just make sure you aren't going to drive it around with an incompatible map.
Click to expand...

Luckily I've done my fair share of vehicles and know the basics!
The no start issue started at the very beginning after the swap.
I bought the car a few months ago not running. asked the guy what was wrong with it (barely spoke english) and he brought me some main bearings! lolol. Right before I started to tear into it, I tried starting it and it started but barely ran.

1.) When cranking it turns over well. I hear compression but not once did I feel like I heard it even trying to hit.

2.) I tested all 4 coil packs and they all had no spark. the spark tester I used is a tool aid. have always used these in the past with no issues.

4.) I take back my comment about not bothering with the stock map. I forgot I did unmarry the car and trying to start. Still nothing.

I saw someone with similar issues with a P0091. It ended up being a PCM for him. He was still able to marry/unmarry the Cobb AP but apparently the part of the circuit that controls HPFP failed. But I have 12V to the pins so voltage can't be low so I'm hoping the jumpers I rigged up is functioning correctly and its not PCM.

That and the car started right before pulling.. I can't imagine the PCM being bad..
If it is what kind of butt r@ping am I going to see to copy my info over to a donor PCM? And if I did that will my tunes still work?

Man.. I'm overwhelmed lol
 
Rotarynerd said:
Luckily I've done my fair share of vehicles and know the basics!
The no start issue started at the very beginning after the swap.
I bought the car a few months ago not running. asked the guy what was wrong with it (barely spoke english) and he brought me some main bearings! lolol. Right before I started to tear into it, I tried starting it and it started but barely ran.

1.) When cranking it turns over well. I hear compression but not once did I feel like I heard it even trying to hit.

2.) I tested all 4 coil packs and they all had no spark. the spark tester I used is a tool aid. have always used these in the past with no issues.

4.) I take back my comment about not bothering with the stock map. I forgot I did unmarry the car and trying to start. Still nothing.

I saw someone with similar issues with a P0091. It ended up being a PCM for him. He was still able to marry/unmarry the Cobb AP but apparently the part of the circuit that controls HPFP failed. But I have 12V to the pins so voltage can't be low so I'm hoping the jumpers I rigged up is functioning correctly and its not PCM.

That and the car started right before pulling.. I can't imagine the PCM being bad..
If it is what kind of butt r@ping am I going to see to copy my info over to a donor PCM? And if I did that will my tunes still work?

Man.. I'm overwhelmed lol
Click to expand...

Since you have no spark in any of the plugs, it narrows down the possibilities a lot.

Here are a few places you can check for failures relating to ignition:

1. Check fuse F67 in the PJB (its under the glove box and kinda fun to get to). I have seen those blow due to a short at the main wiring harness connection to the ignition coil harness.

upload_2020-11-12_20-43-34.png

2. Ignition coil ground near the HPFP. Circled in red in the following picture. Very common problem, and easy to forget during a rebuild. just run a wire from that ground straight to the negative terminal of the battery to confirm that is not the problem.
upload_2020-11-12_20-48-28.png

3. The large connectors near the ground i mentioned about: Confirm there are no damaged wires. I have seen those wires rub against bare metal and short.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
 
You my friend, may be a savior.
I definitely do not remember putting a ground there. I will have to find that ground and bolt it up and see if it fixes it!

The fuse under the dash, would that cause my radio not to work alongside it too? I noticed the radio and info LCD wasn't working when I was trying to start the car. Issue may be there as well.
Edit: I didn't even notice it said ignition, nevermind!

I will go over everything either tomorrow or Saturday and report back!
Thank you so much for your time!

Oh and one more thing, do you happen to have a reference to where all the grounds should be?
I would love to check over them but I didn't see any good references for all the grounds.
I never even though about the ignition coil ground :facepalm:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi. Just want to add my thanx for you awesome guys. Battling for 2weeks to get my Speed3 running again. I came accross youre post and GENUIS I tell you " the_big_dill" I moved that earth to another bolt head, because wire broke. Not realising it's not earthed because of a gasket .
Many,many thanx from South Africa.
 
Good morning guys. I'm having the same problem with my 12 mazdaspeed 3. I replaced the engine and now it cranks but won't start. I checked all my grounds and they are all connected. Any help would.be appreciated
 
Finally hell ya your a life saver i went over everything like 2 -3 times and didn't figure it out till now that DAM GROUND HPFP
The_big_dill said:
Since you have no spark in any of the plugs, it narrows down the possibilities a lot.

Here are a few places you can check for failures relating to ignition:

1. Check fuse F67 in the PJB (its under the glove box and kinda fun to get to). I have seen those blow due to a short at the main wiring harness connection to the ignition coil harness.

View attachment 16393

2. Ignition coil ground near the HPFP. Circled in red in the following picture. Very common problem, and easy to forget during a rebuild. just run a wire from that ground straight to the negative terminal of the battery to confirm that is not the problem.
View attachment 16394

3. The large connectors near the ground i mentioned about: Confirm there are no damaged wires. I have seen those wires rub against bare metal and short.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
Click to expand...
 
The_big_dill said:
Since you have no spark in any of the plugs, it narrows down the possibilities a lot.

Here are a few places you can check for failures relating to ignition:

1. Check fuse F67 in the PJB (its under the glove box and kinda fun to get to). I have seen those blow due to a short at the main wiring harness connection to the ignition coil harness.

View attachment 16393

2. Ignition coil ground near the HPFP. Circled in red in the following picture. Very common problem, and easy to forget during a rebuild. just run a wire from that ground straight to the negative terminal of the battery to confirm that is not the problem.
View attachment 16394

3. The large connectors near the ground i mentioned about: Confirm there are no damaged wires. I have seen those wires rub against bare metal and short.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thank you!!! Had this issue after changing spark plugs and couldn't figure out why the car wasnt starting. Looks like this ground connector was a bit loose and corroded but cleaning and reconnecting solved my issue.
 
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