Devil's Own kit keeps killing progressive controller

[iamareios]

First and foremost hello I'm new to this forum and site. I have a 2012 gen PU and i love this freakin thing! I'm sure you know what I mean. Thanks for having me.

Now the reason I started this thread. I have had a Devil's Own Dvc30 stage 2 kit installed for a few months. It worked flawlessly for awhile then suddenly fried my progressive controller with internal map sensor/boost port.
With the recent rain in CA I assumed the kill switch I had wired inline between the + pump and + battery got wet somehow and shorted out my controller. I removed the switch and hooked the pump straight to battery as stated in Devil's Own directions. I went over all my wiring and made sure for no opens or shorts.
The kicker is I just replaced the controller with a known good one off eBay and it ran fine UP until the pump 1st tried running. It then smelled like burnt electronics. What the hell do you think is going on? Bad pump causing too much load? I appreciate any help and suggestions. Thanks in advance.

 

[Raider]

I've heard and seen a lot of the DO stuff failing. Like components burning and shit. Burning smell is not good, and I would investigate that.

 

[nekret]

Not sure what equipment you have handy but if you have a clamp on ammeter you could measure the current the pump is pulling from a 12v battery without a controller. I'll check mine later tonight but I think it should be less than 10amps. Any more and it could fry the controller.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[neganox]

@Adamizme has a bit of experience with failed DO controllers. DO has you wire up that controller kind of weird if I remember correctly.

 

[Redline]

Sounds like time to pick up a new progressive controller. I like the Cooling Mist CMGS controller, which also acts as a boost gauge, if you don't already have one. I'll probably go that direction when I convert to progressive.

 

[iamareios]

This is my second controller I've gone through. And at first the kit worked flawlessly for about a month with the original controller. I even completed my 100% meth/91 tune and dyno'd 397hp, 370tq. Here's how I have it wired just for your insight.

Pump + straight to battery
Pump - to blue wire off controller
Low level sensor to main healight ground and yellow wire off controller.
In cabin fuse box, add a fuse for 12v constant and ignition source for controller.

Originally I had a kill switch inline from pump + and battery +
I removed that thinking it was the problem.

I suspect the pump is drawing a big load. As the replacement controller worked fine after installing up until the pump was commanded to activate. That's my next course of attack. It's a fairly simple circuit. Thanks for your help guys

 

[Redline]

This is my second controller I've gone through. And at first the kit worked flawlessly for about a month with the original controller. I even completed my 100% meth/91 tune and dyno'd 397hp, 370tq. Here's how I have it wired just for your insight.

Pump + straight to battery
Pump - to blue wire off controller
Low level sensor to main healight ground and yellow wire off controller.
In cabin fuse box, add a fuse for 12v constant and ignition source for controller.

Originally I had a kill switch inline from pump + and battery +
I removed that thinking it was the problem.

I suspect the pump is drawing a big load. As the replacement controller worked fine after installing up until the pump was commanded to activate. That's my next course of attack. It's a fairly simple circuit. Thanks for your help guys

This is the modified CM diagram that I used for my wiring. I added a low-level LED, a system-is-flowing LED, and a master kill switch. The switch itself is rated for >16 amps. I use a 15-amp fuse in my add-a-circuit (even though CM only calls for 10-amp), and the pump itself is rated to draw a max of 12 amps (which is stamped on the pump sticker, in addition to its 1.3GPM flow rating). So I basically have 3 amps to work with for my LEDs, etc., which are known to draw hardly any power at all. Zero issues. I would just simply adapt the CMGS controller to my pre-existing wiring and make any needed additions when I convert to progressive:

 

[iamareios]

This is the modified CM diagram that I used for my wiring. I added a low-level LED, a system-is-flowing LED, and a master kill switch. The switch itself is rated for >16 amps. I use a 15-amp fuse in my add-a-circuit (even though CM only calls for 10-amp), and the pump itself is rated to draw a max of 12 amps (which is stamped on the pump sticker, in addition to its 1.3GPM flow rating). So I basically have 3 amps to work with for my LEDs, etc., which are known to draw hardly any power at all. Zero issues. I would just simply adapt the CMGS controller to my pre-existing wiring and make any needed additions when I convert to progressive:
View attachment 5447

Interesting I know the progressive controller on my DO kit sends the ground needed for the pump to activate. I want to stick with a progressive system as to not waste methanol. I would have thought the fuse inline with positive from the pump to the battery would have popped but it hasn't yet. This definitely leads me to believe the pump is seized causing an excess load. Thoughts? I attached photos of my install for reference if anyone wants to know how to mount a 1gal tank in a gen 2

 

[Redline]

Interesting I know the progressive controller on my DO kit sends the ground needed for the pump to activate. I want to stick with a progressive system as to not waste methanol. I would have thought the fuse inline with positive from the pump to the battery would have popped but it hasn't yet. This definitely leads me to believe the pump is seized causing an excess load. Thoughts? I attached photos of my install for reference if anyone wants to know how to mount a 1gal tank in a gen 2

I found out the hard way that if the splash shield is missing underneath the pump, water getting on it can corrode the screws and cause a total pump failure. But when this happened to me, I was popping fuses left and right trying to diagnose the issue. Turns out it was the pump, for me. But electrical issues can causes all sorts of gremlins, that's why they're such a pain to diagnose.

 

[iamareios]

Hmm funny you say that. I didn't have any problems until the recent downpour of storms we had that came through San Diego. My splash shield is present but has little holes in it. I definitely need to remove the bumper and examine things. Thanks for all your help. I'll update you guys on any progress.

 

[Adamizme]

The controller provides a ground for the pump. Make sure it's a good solid ground or you'll keep frying controllers. I went through two controllers before I figured it out and moved my ground to the screw next to the PMM. Each controller took a couple weeks before it fried with the bad ground.

Also, you'll know when your pump is seized. Bypass the controller and give it 12v and a good ground. If it's silent, it's seized. Mine is located in a similar location to yours and I've seized two pumps from water damage.

 

[iamareios]

The controller provides a ground for the pump. Make sure it's a good solid ground or you'll keep frying controllers. I went through two controllers before I figured it out and moved my ground to the screw next to the PMM. Each controller took a couple weeks before it fried with the bad ground.

Also, you'll know when your pump is seized. Bypass the controller and give it 12v and a good ground. If it's silent, it's seized. Mine is located in a similar location to yours and I've seized two pumps from water damage.

Which ground are you suggesting I ensure is good if the controller is the ground for the pump?
The controller ground i have inside the car? The controller ground is sharing the same location as my wideband gauge which works perfectly. My controller is in the car btw. Not the engine bay.

How did you prevent the pump from future water damage?

 

[neganox]

You can get that rubberized condom type thing for the pump. You have to make a hole in the bottom of it to pass wires through, but it's pretty durable.

 

[iamareios]

You can get that rubberized condom type thing for the pump. You have to make a hole in the bottom of it to pass wires through, but it's pretty durable.

this thing I assume? https://prometh.com/products/pump-weather-proofing-cover?variant=13197203459

Also to prevent future damage to controllers I thought of adding a 15a "circuit breaker" such as this in line from the pump to the controller

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[neganox]

Yep. That would be it.

 

[Adamizme]

Which ground are you suggesting I ensure is good if the controller is the ground for the pump?
The controller ground i have inside the car? The controller ground is sharing the same location as my wideband gauge which works perfectly. My controller is in the car btw. Not the engine bay.

How did you prevent the pump from future water damage?

My controller is in the car too. DO controllers are sensitive to moisture and heat. I was trying to use a ground on the body in the car too and it wasn't good enough. I ran the ground back into the engine bay and haven't had a problem since.

My pump didn't have the rubber condom on the first time it seized. It looked like water got in the hole I cut in the end of the condom for the wires the second time it was seized, so I filled that hole with a bunch of hot glue. No issues yet...

 

[iamareios]

My controller is in the car too. DO controllers are sensitive to moisture and heat. I was trying to use a ground on the body in the car too and it wasn't good enough. I ran the ground back into the engine bay and haven't had a problem since.

My pump didn't have the rubber condom on the first time it seized. It looked like water got in the hole I cut in the end of the condom for the wires the second time it was seized, so I filled that hole with a bunch of hot glue. No issues yet...

Awesome info. Much appreciated. I will go this route with my new pump.

After doing some research, it seems this company provides the PCBA for devils own. Both their progressive and map based controllers.
https://www.easyperformance.com/pro...uel-pump-controller-3-bar-internal-map-sensor
it doesn't seem cost effective to order a replacement through them though.

 

[neganox]

DO wont warranty your busted one?

 

[Adamizme]

They covered both of my fried controllers and one seized pump. It's worth trying.

 

[iamareios]

DO wont warranty your busted one?

Both controllers were purchased used. The 1st was with the whole used methanol kit I bought. The 2nd, a known good working controller off ebay. Should I try still haha?