DISIFTW 2.0

DISIFTW

DISIFTW

Motorhead
After a 7 year hiatus I’m back to owning another speed! 2008 CWP with 166k and what looks like decent shape. Door moldings are already removed so it’s @Raider approved. She’s currently with @Rokusek up north until I get back from deployment and can get it shipped down to me. Already purchased Damond mounts and a CS exhaust mani paired with a Garrett G30-770. Jordan @ Overspeed is going to be building the motor and it’ll be paired with the Contrive Designs AWD kit. There’s a lot planned for this build and I’ll try to post here and in the how-to section for the changes I make. IMG_0093.jpeg IMG_0091.jpegIMG_0088.jpeg First find, the CS mani WILL work with the newer G series housings from Garrett. The ID of the housing is slightly larger than the CS Tial flange but it will clamp up just fine.IMG_0126.jpeg IMG_0140.jpeg IMG_0141.jpeg IMG_0147.jpeg IMG_0148.jpeg Will update in a couple months once I’m back and have the car.
 
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Update: I returned from deployment mid December and enjoyed some much needed decompression time. Ordered the Motec ECU, turbo, fuel cell, and a few other goodies.

Finally received the car today (23Jan25) after shipping from Roku a couple days ago. I live in a townhouse with a tandem 2 car garage so space is narrow but I’ll make it work. Threw down some plastic to prevent the inevitable leaks from staining the concrete and got the car in and up on Quickjacks. Of course had to do the obligatory hood off and front bumper removed photo before you can actually work on anything. Got most everything electrical and intake disconnected, ready to drain fluids pull axles and front clip, then motor and trans will be out.

Started gutting what was left of the hatch and removing the rear bumper to make cutting the spare tire well easier and because racecar. Discovered my bestie Roku left me a small percentage of all the penises Cullen has eaten over the years in the form of stickers hidden behind the molding and carpet inside, thanks brother!!

** When removing the rear bumper there are 3 - 8mm screws in each rear wheel well, and one at the bottom of each fender liner. Once those are out the smaller plastic liners can be removed the you can start unclipping the bumper. *The taillights have to me removed in order to remove the rear bumper* there’s a screw and plastic body clip behind each taillight. Once those are out the bumper can be removed enough to access the rear license plate lights/harness. That’s just a couple clips and a piece of tape the remove and the bumper is free.

That’s it for now and sorry if the pics are out of order, making this post from my phone and I’ll edit on the computer later if necessary.
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DISIFTW said:
They’ll get posted when I install them, patience my son.

Engine and transmission are out, AC lines removed, power steering lines removed (more plans for that later and the interior is about 98% stripped.
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I see what you did there...
 
Interior is 99% removed, debating on keeping the heater core…thoughts?

Fuel tank dropped, rear subframe is out, spare tire well cut and gone, made an access hole to get the stock fuel filler neck out to install the radium fill port. This part was a PITA! Took me over an hour to drill the holes and get the mounting plate to line up in between the layers of sheet metal but got it finished.

Discovered it has Mazdaspeed camber arms and cat back exhaust. Thinking about keeping the exhaust and adapting it to work with the setup after the AWD stuff is installed. Next project is converting it to an electric power steering pump (I’ll post a how-to) and then roll cage fabrication and install. I’ll be using SCCA and global time attack requirements for that.IMG_0781.jpeg IMG_0782.jpeg IMG_0784.jpeg IMG_0792.jpeg
 

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Enki said:
Keeping the heater core means extra cooling when you need it most.
Edit: Got any pics of the Radium fuel tank setup?
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Only the filler kit showed up, still waiting on the fuel cell and FCST.
It will have a koyorad and the AC condenser is gone so that should help with airflow there. My other consideration is having heat in the car for the occasional times I do drive it on the street.
 
Making some good progress!

I'll be mailing out the tail lamp, raider fab kit and your title this week.
 
Monthly update:
Got the electric power steering pump mounted, fits nicely where the old ps reservoir and windshield washer fluid reservoir were. It’s from a 2011 Mazda 3, but a pu pump will also work. There will be more details when I do the how-to after getting everything done and verify if the Motec can control it or if I need the separate controller.

After a couple emails with the awesome people at Radium, they upgraded me from a 10gal to a 14gal fuel cell for no extra charge because of long lead times on the 10gal. Got it a couple days later and welded the mounts in, so it’s ready for fuel pumps and wiring.

instead of a custom roll cage I discovered AutoPower is located close to me in SoCal so I reached out to them and got a good deal on a 6pt weld in cage with 6 - 1/8” steel base plates. It was ready in about 3 weeks and comes with the main hoop and cross bars tack welded so whoever installs it would need to weld in the base plates, measure/cut/notch the rest of the tubes, and final weld in place. Got the main hoop tacked in and one of the rear braces, cutting and notching with an angle grinder is a bit time consuming but I’m getting there.

Also picked up a set of PowerFlex lower control arm bushings and anti-lift kit during Damond’s last Black Friday sale :) I pulled the LCAs and ended up bending one and breaking the other trying to get the old bushings pressed off…quick $100 to rockauto.com and got a new set of Moog LCAs delivered. Pressed the bushings off and got the new ones installed. It’ll be another 7-10 days before I can mess with the car again due to work commitments, so expect another update in a “two weeks”.
 

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