DM PMM Install

I'm thinking just replacing the mounts and keeping them in the car to throw out the window at deserving passersby. I figure they were only designed to infuriate people any way, so why not give them one more shot.

Yeah, the whole "jail" think....
 
The DM mounts are much quieter. I swapped out the JBR70 TMM today with the DM TMM and most of my tranny whine went away. I can now run the AC at a stop light and not be embarrassed. I installed the DM PMM a several months ago replacing the JBR 70 on that side. I'm keeping the JBR 88 RMM for now.
 
I just realized today while accelerating aggressively near an on-ramp that I have zero 2nd-3rd lockout issues anymore! I used to get them with another brand's RMM + PMM. It used to be hard to hit 3rd consistently when accelerating very hard. Missed shifts suck!

Now, being fully Damond mounted, I'm so confident in my shifting that I haven't even thought about lockout for months because it never happens any more. It just dawned on me today :D
 
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I just realized today while accelerating aggressively near on on-ramp that I have zero 2nd-3rd lockout issues anymore! I used to get them with another brand's RMM + TMM. It used to be hard to hit 3rd consistently when accelerating very hard. Missed shifts suck!

Now, being fully Damond mounted, I'm so confident in my shifting that I haven't even thought about lockout for months because it never happens any more. It just dawned on me today :D

FFS'ing 2-3 in a Damond mounted car is perfection.

I had a similar revelation a couple months into going fully Damond mounted...just driving along one day, I was like, "wow, haven't even thought about my engine mounts in a long time" - they disappear easily, do everything well and are reasonably quiet/comfortable to boot. Every speed owner who gets in my car is consistently shocked at how quiet/comfortable it is. Part of it is my exhaust, but part of it is also the mounts. In particular, I've never been in a car with any other TMM that has as little gear whine as this one.
 
I just had to experience that again yesterday, it had been a while but what a sharp reminder. I think I'm gonna get approval for OT for the next several. If that all pans out ill be going all 3 mounts.
 
I've got the CS RMM and love the difference it made to the car but, after all the rave reviews I keep reading, I'ma definitely have to look into DM if/when I change the PMM and TMM.
 
The problem with those soft RMM's like the CS is that they feel great for maybe like 5k miles and then gradually soften up (or disintegrate, if they're those blue ones they used to sell) and ruin the shift feel again. Last time I took my Damond RMM out, it still looked brand new. No obvious bushing wear. PMM's been on the car the longest, it has about 50k miles. Also perfect condition.
 
Is the 80 durometer still considered "soft," by comparison (I thought CS offered a softer one for a while but don't see it on the site, at the moment)? I've got no complaints about mine as of yet and haven't read too much, if any, griping from others about them, either. I know people prefer DM mounts to JBR, for example, but I haven't seen any direct CS to DM comparisons. Maybe if I come into a nice chunk of excess dough I'll just spring for the full DM trilogy.
 
Is the 80 durometer still considered "soft," by comparison (I thought CS offered a softer one for a while but don't see it on the site, at the moment)? I've got no complaints about mine as of yet and haven't read too much, if any, griping from others about them, either. I know people prefer DM mounts to JBR, for example, but I haven't seen any direct CS to DM comparisons. Maybe if I come into a nice chunk of excess dough I'll just spring for the full DM trilogy.
IMHO, mount design can have as significant an impact on immobilizing the engine as durometer. Besides, there's no apples-to-apples comparison of durometers between mounts because it's simply a measure of hardness. Some folks use polyurethane type bushings, and others use "rubbery" material, so that's hard to compare. Additionally, the design of one mount may use a huge bushing that can have a different impact on NVH than another with a very small bushing. And sometimes the loads are distributed across the bushing in a different axis, etc. The only valid comparison you could make, apart from actually trying a different mount, would be if a specific mount had multiple durometer offerings, but with the same design otherwise. So if CS offers the same mount in 70, 80, and 88 durometer, you can be reasonably sure that as the durometer goes up, so do the stiffness and NVH. I will say this: for as great at stopping engine movement the Damond mounts are, they are very low on the NVH scale compared to other mounts of similar performance.

Hope that makes sense...
 
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Thanks! I'll admit I didn't shop around too much when buying my RMM; I'd read a lot of good things about CS and preferred it to JBR (DM was a foreign concept to me at the time), so that's what I went with. Installed it about a year ago, now; not sure how many miles are on it at this point but, like I said, no complaints yet. I do really like the look of DM's mounts, though...
 
When you go BSD you will have to accept more vibration and noise but the DM side mounts are the way to go when doing the sides.
 
I bought the JBR trilogy before I started hearing about DM's. I do have more vibes than stock (which is expected), but overall it isn't horrible to the point where I want to get out of my car and walk instead. Maybe I'm just being nice and thinking "because racecar" each time I feel it and have gotten used to it. I'm not sure, but I gotta admit - these posts are making me very curious.

Oh and this 2nd to 3rd shifting "lock out" you guys describe - I'm assuming that is when you are shifting from 2nd to 3rd and you basically miss the gear even though you done it 100 other times before, but this time when you are going fast/racing/whatever - you miss it and can't get in until you basically "calmly" shift into it.

I have honestly not associated that with having the new trilogy mounts I mentioned above. I just thought it was me since I've only been driving a stick for about 2-3 years. As I think about it - it does seem to have been happening more frequently now that I got the new mounts. NOTE: By frequently I'm not saying all the time, but frequent enough for me to notice and be embarrassed I missed a gear.
 
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I bought the JBR trilogy before I started hearing about DM's. I do have more vibes than stock (which is expected), but overall it isn't horrible to the point where I want to get out of my car and walk instead. Maybe I'm just being nice and thinking "because racecar" each time I feel it and have gotten used to it. I'm not sure, but I gotta admit - these posts are making me very curious.

Oh and this 2nd to 3rd shifting "lock out" you guys describe - I'm assuming that is when you are shifting from 2nd to 3rd and you basically miss the gear even though you done it 100 other times before, but this time when you are going fast/racing/whatever - you miss it and can't get in until you basically "calmly" shift into it.

I have honestly not associated that with having the new trilogy mounts I mentioned above. I just thought it was me since I've only been driving a stick for about 2-3 years. As I think about it - it does seem to have been happening more frequently now that I got the new mounts. NOTE: By frequently I'm not saying all the time, but frequent enough for me to notice and be embarrassed I missed a gear.
*Disclaimer: It is not my desire to vendor bash at all. My only desire is to share my subjective experience with various mounts.

I previously had a JBR 88 RMM and 80 PMM with a stock TMM. With that combination, I can honestly say that I had more NVH than with now having all three Damond mounts. A couple of years back, I rode in a buddy's Speed who was fully JBR mounted with the highest durometer mounts. When we were driving, the NVH was so substantial that I thought his car was broken, particularly with the tranny noise. To be fair, that was my first experience ever in a fully mounted car, so part of my subjective experience impression was based upon only having ridden/drove cars with only a RMM. This made the NVH stand out much more to me. And having driven my fully Damond mounted car for a while now, I'm sure that my impression is much more used to the NVH indicative with aftermarket mounts. Having said this, I am certain that fully mounted JBR setup produces much more NVH than a fully mounted Damond setup.

The 2nd-3rd lockout issue occurred primarily when aggressively accelerating (whether or not FFS) and switching from 2nd to 3rd. I no longer have this issue. I still had it when I had my previous RMM + PMM. I think that perhaps if I had a RMM + TMM combination, it may not have been the case, but that's pure conjecture on my part. You'd be better to ask people who've actually run different combinations with different mounts. All I know is that it's a non-issue now, being fully Damond mounted.
 
*Disclaimer: It is not my desire to vendor bash at all. My only desire is to share my subjective experience with various mounts.

I previously had a JBR 88 RMM and 80 PMM with a stock TMM. With that combination, I can honestly say that I had more NVH than with now having all three Damond mounts. A couple of years back, I rode in a buddy's Speed who was fully JBR mounted with the highest durometer mounts. When we were driving, the NVH was so substantial that I thought his car was broken, particularly with the tranny noise. To be fair, that was my first experience ever in a fully mounted car, so part of my subjective experience impression was based upon only having ridden/drove cars with only a RMM. This made the NVH stand out much more to me. And having driven my fully Damond mounted car for a while now, I'm sure that my impression is much more used to the NVH indicative with aftermarket mounts. Having said this, I am certain that fully mounted JBR setup produces much more NVH than a fully mounted Damond setup.

The 2nd-3rd lockout issue occurred primarily when aggressively accelerating (whether or not FFS) and switching from 2nd to 3rd. I no longer have this issue. I still had it when I had my previous RMM + PMM. I think that perhaps if I had a RMM + TMM combination, it may not have been the case, but that's pure conjecture on my part. You'd be better to ask people who've actually run different combinations with different mounts. All I know is that it's a non-issue now, being fully Damond mounted.

That is when I have the issue as well. When driving aggressive. I get that wonderful issue when it won't go into 3rd. Makes me feel incompetent as heck with my gear shifting. All I can picture is Dom from Fast and Furious ridiculing me ;-)

I've been reading in more than one place that the JBR's cause more vibrations than the Damond.

When I was RMM only it caused more, but wasn't horrible. I'm at the hardest duro that they offer. 80 on RMM, 80 on PMM, 88 TMM.

I've been reading this acronym like crazy and still can't figure it out - NVH?
 
When you go BSD you will have to accept more vibration and noise but the DM side mounts are the way to go when doing the sides.

This is very true. It's not that bad with the Damond mounts. Wouldn't want to image with a competitors mounts


Sent from my iPhone using my stinky little fingers
 
IMHO, mount design can have as significant an impact on immobilizing the engine as durometer. Besides, there's no apples-to-apples comparison of durometers between mounts because it's simply a measure of hardness. Some folks use polyurethane type bushings, and others use "rubbery" material, so that's hard to compare. Additionally, the design of one mount may use a huge bushing that can have a different impact on NVH than another with a very small bushing. And sometimes the loads are distributed across the bushing in a different axis, etc. The only valid comparison you could make, apart from actually trying a different mount, would be if a specific mount had multiple durometer offerings, but with the same design otherwise. So if CS offers the same mount in 70, 80, and 88 durometer, you can be reasonably sure that as the durometer goes up, so do the stiffness and NVH.

Hope that makes sense...

Preach!

I love this thread.
 
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