Driveshaft parts … u-joint?

[jsilva]

Does anyone have recommendations for replacing u-joints on the driveshaft (propeller shaft)? I was told Rockford might have some. I contacted them but haven’t heard back yet.

I’m getting a weird vibration when letting off the accelerator at 15mph and above, like going over rumble strips. I thought it was a rear diff mount bushing (one was toast) so I replaced the bushings and it’s still there. I noticed what looks like potential damage to the u-joint closest to the rear diff, so I figured next step is to try and replace that.

Anyone ever done that?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

This was from a few minutes back...

https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/threads/propeller-shaft-rebuild.15525/

Still wish I had the part numbers.

 

[jsilva]

This was from a few minutes back...

https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/threads/propeller-shaft-rebuild.15525/

Still wish I had the part numbers.

Thanks for that link. I’ll see what I can turn up. I think I only need the rear most u-joint. Can you remember if that one was from the 70’s car or the other?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

I cant give you any reliable info right now about replacement units, it was years ago. I also paid cash so I didnt get a receipt with item list. Sorry.
If you pull the rear joint out, measure the distance from end cap to end cap and the diameter of the end caps. Use these 2 measurements to cross reference a replacement. The rear joint is staked in so you need to find a way to grind/drill/break the small welds on the c-clips.

 

[jsilva]

I cant give you any reliable info right now about replacement units, it was years ago. I also paid cash so I didnt get a receipt with item list. Sorry.
If you pull the rear joint out, measure the distance from end cap to end cap and the diameter of the end caps. Use these 2 measurements to cross reference a replacement. The rear joint is staked in so you need to find a way to grind/drill/break the small welds on the c-clips.

Thanks! I’ll post the details here if I figure it out.

 

[DatsunZ]

I was looking into this too as I finish up my rear subframe/suspension rebuild. From what I can tell the propeller shaft/prop shaft/drive shaft (using all the common terms for searchability by others) is considered non-serviceable because the u-joints are staked in place instead of using external retaining rings such as a C-clip. Removal of the OEM can be done without too much difficulty using either lots of force, or a grinding tool to remove the stakes then welding a slide hammer attachments to the caps to pop each one out. Normally to put in replacements you would need to have them staked again (difficult and requires special tools), or having the holes cut at the right spots for a C-clip (doable DIY but slow, easy to mess up, and certainly requires rebalancing).

That’s where u-joints with an internal C-clip come into play. They make them now in a way where the C-clip is inside the caps and locks in when you press them on. Now I can’t attest to how durable this style is, but it seems like they are used in the OEM world of off-road vehicles like sand rails and dune buggies, so they are a possibility. I think I may undertake this task when I drop my driveshaft for the rear subframe and chassis painting and will certainly update here with anything I discover.

The carrier bearing should be replaced while this is happening because it is can only be removed and replaced when the u-joints are out. I remember coming across an older post mentioning that it was a pretty standard bearing size so that should be as simple as pressing the old out and putting in the new one after you measured it.

 

[Crazycanadian]

I was looking into this too as I finish up my rear subframe/suspension rebuild. From what I can tell the propeller shaft/prop shaft/drive shaft (using all the common terms for searchability by others) is considered non-serviceable because the u-joints are staked in place instead of using external retaining rings such as a C-clip. Removal of the OEM can be done without too much difficulty using either lots of force, or a grinding tool to remove the stakes then welding a slide hammer attachments to the caps to pop each one out. Normally to put in replacements you would need to have them staked again (difficult and requires special tools), or having the holes cut at the right spots for a C-clip (doable DIY but slow, easy to mess up, and certainly requires rebalancing).

That’s where u-joints with an internal C-clip come into play. They make them now in a way where the C-clip is inside the caps and locks in when you press them on. Now I can’t attest to how durable this style is, but it seems like they are used in the OEM world of off-road vehicles like sand rails and dune buggies, so they are a possibility. I think I may undertake this task when I drop my driveshaft for the rear subframe and chassis painting and will certainly update here with anything I discover.

The carrier bearing should be replaced while this is happening because it is can only be removed and replaced when the u-joints are out. I remember coming across an older post mentioning that it was a pretty standard bearing size so that should be as simple as pressing the old out and putting in the new one after you measured it.

Do you have part numbers for the ones that'll fit the Speed 6 drive shaft?

Internal C-clips are common when it comes to other manufactures with serviceable U-joints. There's nothing wrong with them.

 

[DatsunZ]

Do you have part numbers for the ones that'll fit the Speed 6 drive shaft?

Internal C-clips are common when it comes to other manufactures with serviceable U-joints. There's nothing wrong with them.

Not off hand. I haven’t gotten time to measure because I’m still trying to chase down an issue at WOT while getting logs for the tuner that seems to be boost cut.

Based on the other thread linked mentioning a Mazda MPV and 70’s truck (B2000 or B2200 is my guess) I came across this:

https://patsdriveline.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Rockford_Staked-In_Replacement_U-Joints.pdf

Appears the Rockford 430-11 is likely the correct one, but definitely measure each joint first.

Replacement instructions would look almost exactly like this video:


I assumed there would be no real issues with the reliability of the internal clip style, but my concern was our shaft might have not nearly as much surface area in that location like the Subaru flange mentioned in the video.