First time owner G2 speed3

Awafrican said:
Perhaps, but their v2 support is done I believe.
@Pcktrckt I'd recommend updating the firmware on the accesport, then unistal it, check maps on it install stage 0, and see how that goes if it doesn't then it's time to reach out to Cobb to see if they can help. Even stage 0+sf would work for you probably better because of the intake
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I will give this a shot and report back.

As far as etuning, I've read several thread of tuner doesn't reply back or unreachable. Is this still the case?

Tyler Young said:
So I gotta side with Easter Bunny and everyone else on this, definitely go through an etuner. From what I understand about it
A. Dyno shops aren't really in it for the limitations of your build, they just run it rich and push as far as they can
B. Etuners won't charge you per flash but Dyno show charge by the hour
C. You're more likely to find an etuner that will talk with you and maybe help you understand a little better as to what exactly they're doing to your tune.
Is not as expensive as you would think, that's what I would suggest, personally. Cuz from what I can tell, you n I are about in the same boat. Just search my name, I've been having a hell of a time with my '12 ms3 trying to learn how to tune myself.
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Who do you suggest and how would I get in touch with them.
 
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I did updates on my AP. To me, it's reading different than before. The AFR number is most of concern. It's on the rich side and until I get the HPFP internals, it'll be parked.

Thanks for the idea @Awafrican.

So here's a question. When I'm ready to tune, what must I do so that the tuner can get the best information possible? In other thread, it's been mentioned to use same weight, road. Thanks.
 
Awafrican said:
Perhaps, but their v2 support is done I believe.
@Pcktrckt I'd recommend updating the firmware on the accesport, then unistal it, check maps on it install stage 0, and see how that goes if it doesn't then it's time to reach out to Cobb to see if they can help. Even stage 0+sf would work for you probably better because of the intake
Click to expand...

@Awafrican my AP does not have Stage 0+SF. I selected AP stage 0 v400. Not sure where to go from here. From what I can see, I am on the rich side for the most part. Still don't see the 11psi hit from the logs. Not sure if something is really wrong with the AP or not, but so confused. Hope someone can look at the logs and help me out.

Edit : the high boost is recorded as negative 11? is this right?
 
Justin @ Freektune is very consistent from experience I always have a response within 48 hrs (business days not weekend), people are impatient at that's where it happens also peak race season it's slower because he races and gets super busy with all the orders, you message again you got to the bottom of the que. Really getting ahold of freektune or purple drank is a non issue.

Edit: you can get the new maps from Cobb's website and install them into the access port via access port manager it's also the software the lets you update the firmware
 
Awafrican said:
Justin @ Freektune is very consistent from experience I always have a response within 48 hrs (business days not weekend), people are impatient at that's where it happens also peak race season it's slower because he races and gets super busy with all the orders, you message again you got to the bottom of the que. Really getting ahold of freektune or purple drank is a non issue.

Edit: you can get the new maps from Cobb's website and install them into the access port via access port manager it's also the software the lets you update the firmware
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I looked at COBB's site, but I was not able to find a Stage 0+SF map. Also checked the AP, and the only Stage 0 map available to me is Stage 0 v400. I'm just going to leave it as is until I get the HPFP internals. Stay tuned.

@Awafrican is Justin @ freektunes reachable here or is there another way to get in contact?

Easter Bunny said:
How rich? These cars run rich from the factory and afr is not an indication of hpfp performance
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15-16
 
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Easter Bunny said:
15-16 afr is lean.

How are you logging? Look at the tuning section here it goes over how to capture a log to make sure you are doing it correctly
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Logging through my AP.

A bit more info.

I started datalogging approximately monday. Same route I use from work to home roundtrip. Initially, the data didn't show any boost or increase or decrease in AFR. For the most part, there was maybe 14.9-15.5 on AFR. Boost was not recorded for some odd reason. Which of course was concerning because the data told me that it was not logging accurately. At some point during my drive, I got into high boost, which the AFR on the AP read 11, but the datalog didn't support what I saw with my own eyes. Nor did the data show boost. It's possible that this generic COBB map is so generic that it just doesn't post properly? My first crack at AP.

Edit : I have the logs if you are interested in taking a look. Datalog 15 and 16 are from Monday. Datalog 19 is from today. I switched maps to see if the inaccuracies were map specific. The only thing I could see is that the boost is showing negative, when it should be positive?

Awafrican said:
He's on here @Atvfreek but he's not too frequent here anymore, contact information for him and FAQ's of the tuning process can be found here email is probably best.

https://www.freektune.com/pages/faq-s
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I will consider this and self educate myself. The thought has crossed my mind with a dyno tune. Meaning, that when I decide to go with a catless DP, that I'd pay again. But with this option, I am able to do it on the fly until the final tune file is done. Since it's my DD, the goal I have in mind is 325. Whether or not that the mods will support this, is beyond me. Obviously, the CAI and recir 50/50 should allow for more condense air to flow through the turbo inlet. But, its still the plastic one.
 

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Pcktrckt said:
I will give this a shot and report back.

As far as etuning, I've read several thread of tuner doesn't reply back or unreachable. Is this still the case?


Who do you suggest and how would I get in touch with them.
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Well as far as the no answer thing, ya I've heard that as well, unfortunate as it may be sometimes, you gotta understand. These guys are usually working on multiple different tunes in the same day so they might just have been caught up with someone else or maybe some personal issues, idk. But Freek has plenty of good reviews, especially on this forum, Tuned by Nishan is another very reputable name. But the only 1i can personal vouch for is Dolf from Dchoonz Performance Tuning. Dudes helped me out at much more than anybody else in understanding tuning. He works SOLELY with Mazdas, very personable.
 
Tldr; don't be worried about "not hearing from a reputable e tuner that's people being impatient

Like I've said I haven't had any issues with now answer Justin always gets back to you sometimes it just 2-4 days, I've had revisions back in 24 hrs and 48hrs, if I sent it Thursday night probably end of day Tuesday. But I always tried to not sens things over the weekend or just before so that I'm not sitting in que with everyone else doing the same.

As I've already mentioned typically these "I haven't heard from him" are because they s JD Multiple emails and get popped to the bottom of the que automatically. Or they're impatient and can't wait the 2-4 day turn around if its peak season. The guy takes vacation too but he's upfront about all that most people just don't seem to read the faq.
 
Pcktrckt said:
Logging through my AP.

A bit more info.

I started datalogging approximately monday. Same route I use from work to home roundtrip. Initially, the data didn't show any boost or increase or decrease in AFR. For the most part, there was maybe 14.9-15.5 on AFR. Boost was not recorded for some odd reason. Which of course was concerning because the data told me that it was not logging accurately. At some point during my drive, I got into high boost, which the AFR on the AP read 11, but the datalog didn't support what I saw with my own eyes. Nor did the data show boost. It's possible that this generic COBB map is so generic that it just doesn't post properly? My first crack at AP.

Edit : I have the logs if you are interested in taking a look. Datalog 15 and 16 are from Monday. Datalog 19 is from today. I switched maps to see if the inaccuracies were map specific. The only thing I could see is that the boost is showing negative, when it should be positive?



I will consider this and self educate myself. The thought has crossed my mind with a dyno tune. Meaning, that when I decide to go with a catless DP, that I'd pay again. But with this option, I am able to do it on the fly until the final tune file is done. Since it's my DD, the goal I have in mind is 325. Whether or not that the mods will support this, is beyond me. Obviously, the CAI and recir 50/50 should allow for more condense air to flow through the turbo inlet. But, its still the plastic one.
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You have an AP v3 not 2 right? There is a setup option at the top of your screen in each different selection ie guage screen, main screen, performance screen, etc. There is a setup option that allows you to choose what to log during a datalog. Boost might not be selsected. I would double check you're following exactly how to do a datalog after selecting to log these parameters;
AFR
Boost
LTFT
STFT
Knock Retard
WGDC
HPFP actual pressure
Calculated load
That should get you started. Just don't go full throttle under 3k rpms and keep an eye on your afr's and knock during a pull. That is my advice. Once you know for sure you have done this and feel confident that the log eas performed correctly and still didn't log then contact cobb and they will help you figure out why your AP isn't logging correctly. Mine has always worked great so not sure what is going on with yours. Double check all your vacuum lines as well as they can reich havock on how a car performs if it is bad enough.
 
Pcktrckt said:
Thanks for this, but have no clues of tuning period. Just know that my speed3 is my DD and don't need, not afford a 3200 pound paper weight. This could be an option in the future once it's pro tuned.



@StreetSpeed6, thanks for the welcome. Over the summer, I've contemplated on getting a speed3 or 6. I settled on the 3 because I wanted something different. TBH, if I could pull it off, I would have done a boss wagon build on the Mazda 5 that I already have. Sadly, it's not manual.

I've had hatches in the past, but all were 3 door. Picking is my side gig atm and having a hatch allows me to take larger items from the yards home.

Side notes. I've been told that the AP needs the wide band o2 recal every so often. Does this correlate with the AP reading wrong data when datalogging? I've now dumped a day's worth of logs and it will not post rpm above 2k. The car has been put away for the next week.

It's my mona Lisa. Lol.
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As for the wideband o2 question I don't think so but could be wrong. They do go bad time to time but just cleaning your maf really well can sometimes clear up bouncy afr's. You will know if the wideband goes bad because your car will run like a turd if at all and the afr's won't be showing on the AP. It will show the max value of like 29.xx but if you buy a new primary o2 sensor (wideband) then go oem. They are around like $150 if I remember right
 
I can attest to this. Dialing in my MAF and MAP, my shit was throwing all sorta codes cuz mine is a DD as well
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
You have an AP v3 not 2 right? There is a setup option at the top of your screen in each different selection ie guage screen, main screen, performance screen, etc. There is a setup option that allows you to choose what to log during a datalog. Boost might not be selsected. I would double check you're following exactly how to do a datalog after selecting to log these parameters;
AFR
Boost
LTFT
STFT
Knock Retard
WGDC
HPFP actual pressure
Calculated load
That should get you started. Just don't go full throttle under 3k rpms and keep an eye on your afr's and knock during a pull. That is my advice. Once you know for sure you have done this and feel confident that the log eas performed correctly and still didn't log then contact cobb and they will help you figure out why your AP isn't logging correctly. Mine has always worked great so not sure what is going on with yours. Double check all your vacuum lines as well as they can reich havock on how a car performs if it is bad enough.
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Hey @StreetSpeed6. It's funny that you mention this. After making a few postis, @Awafrican suggested to do a firmware update to my AP. Not sure which verison I have, but it's the bigger LCD screen.

Anyways, the OTS maps naming scheme was changed. The original Stage II+91 v234 was no longer available to me. Instead, everything was replaced by v400. Then, @Awafrican suggested to switch to Stage 0. The only Stage 0 I had was v400. I dumped the datalog, and low and behold, it was reading positive boost at the correct RPM, and AFR was not static. The theory that @Awafrican mentioned earlier about a possible bad map reflash is plausible. I don't know for sure. This afternoon, I reflashed to Stage II+91 v400. When looking at the data, its reading as it should, I think?

Contacted Cobb support, and they were helpful to a point. When I mentioned the mods, the CS suggested automatically to a protuner. I doubt they looked at my data to help me out. What a waste of time.

Side notes : What is a good range for AFR stock versus Stage II? I'm going to keep driving, but the HPFP won't arrive for a few weeks. Thinking of going back to Stage 0, but I noticed that any map I run will call out for HPFP and would like to avoid destroying it before I get my parts. Thanks.
 
Pcktrckt said:
Hey @StreetSpeed6. It's funny that you mention this. After making a few postis, @Awafrican suggested to do a firmware update to my AP. Not sure which verison I have, but it's the bigger LCD screen.

Anyways, the OTS maps naming scheme was changed. The original Stage II+91 v234 was no longer available to me. Instead, everything was replaced by v400. Then, @Awafrican suggested to switch to Stage 0. The only Stage 0 I had was v400. I dumped the datalog, and low and behold, it was reading positive boost at the correct RPM, and AFR was not static. The theory that @Awafrican mentioned earlier about a possible bad map reflash is plausible. I don't know for sure. This afternoon, I reflashed to Stage II+91 v400. When looking at the data, its reading as it should, I think?

Contacted Cobb support, and they were helpful to a point. When I mentioned the mods, the CS suggested automatically to a protuner. I doubt they looked at my data to help me out. What a waste of time.

Side notes : What is a good range for AFR stock versus Stage II? I'm going to keep driving, but the HPFP won't arrive for a few weeks. Thinking of going back to Stage 0, but I noticed that any map I run will call out for HPFP and would like to avoid destroying it before I get my parts. Thanks.
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Glad you're getting it lined out. I would just be careful until you get the hpfp internals and not run it really hard and you'll be fine but follow the main rules most of all which are no full throttle before 3k and I honestly wouldn't run it to redline at all until you get the internals except if you want a datalog. Start in 3rd gear on a long, straight, and flat road that is safe and get your car to 3k rpms. Then, right before shoving the throttle down start the datalog and push your foot until it hits the floorboard. Run it up until about 6k or so and let off and then stop the datalog once insuring full control of the car with one hand safely lol Make sure the car is up to full operating temperature of 180 and add actual pedal position to your datalog as well I forgot to add that one. This method of datalog is what we need to see to make sure your car is running ok on this map. Some generally safe basic parameters I know in my limited knowledge are:

AFR - 11.5 to 12 (during full throttle datalog aka WOT) 14.7 afr is targeted while not in boost.

Boost - Should probably be under 18- 18.5psi I would guess

HPFP Pressure - Should never dip below 1700psi during wot datalog

"KR" aka Knock Retard - Should probably be under 2ish at wot

These are just a couple basic things to look at after doing a short successful datalog. Also, you have a V3 accessport if you have the bigger screen which is good since the old V2 isn't even supported now.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Glad you're getting it lined out. I would just be careful until you get the hpfp internals and not run it really hard and you'll be fine but follow the main rules most of all which are no full throttle before 3k and I honestly wouldn't run it to redline at all until you get the internals except if you want a datalog. Start in 3rd gear on a long, straight, and flat road that is safe and get your car to 3k rpms. Then, right before shoving the throttle down start the datalog and push your foot until it hits the floorboard. Run it up until about 6k or so and let off and then stop the datalog once insuring full control of the car with one hand safely lol Make sure the car is up to full operating temperature of 180 and add actual pedal position to your datalog as well I forgot to add that one. This method of datalog is what we need to see to make sure your car is running ok on this map. Some generally safe basic parameters I know in my limited knowledge are:

AFR - 11.5 to 12 (during full throttle datalog aka WOT) 14.7 afr is targeted while not in boost.

Boost - Should probably be under 18- 18.5psi I would guess

HPFP Pressure - Should never dip below 1700psi during wot datalog

"KR" aka Knock Retard - Should probably be under 2ish at wot

These are just a couple basic things to look at after doing a short successful datalog. Also, you have a V3 accessport if you have the bigger screen which is good since the old V2 isn't even supported now.
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Thanks for the information. In the datalog, it shows me time, AFR, battery voltage, boost, HPFP pressure, TPS, KR, RPM, VS, WG, and one other item that I can't think of atm.

I will keep this info in mind. I'm trying to avoid driving it, but it's really only driven around town on my off days. When I do use it, I drive to work and it sits for 12 hours before I jump in and drive home. It really isn't driven hard. I am only doing these pulls to verify the accuracy of my AP to ensure that I get accurate info for the tune.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
As for the wideband o2 question I don't think so but could be wrong. They do go bad time to time but just cleaning your maf really well can sometimes clear up bouncy afr's. You will know if the wideband goes bad because your car will run like a turd if at all and the afr's won't be showing on the AP. It will show the max value of like 29.xx but if you buy a new primary o2 sensor (wideband) then go oem. They are around like $150 if I remember right
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What's the proper procedure to clean the MAF? Do I need to have an object on the gas pedal to open the MAF to spray it?
 
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