Front passenger clunking low speeds

[90fish]

As title describes, I have a clunking noise coming from the front passenger wheel area when braking heavily at lower speeds, and occasionally, switching from reverse to 1st and accelerating. Imagine backing out of a parking spot and driving off. Sometimes it happens when turning the wheel in that same scenario, but less frequently. I have had the front subframe out of the car a while ago, and re torqued the control arm bushings, subframe bushings, and strut tower with no luck. Looking for more suggestions. None of those bolts were lose and after doing that, the noise continued. Is the CV axle nut a possibility? Running Bilstein b14s that have probably 40k miles.

 

[brandonf]

Check the endlinks

 

[90fish]

Ill make sure they are tight. I assume I can just pry on them with a bar as well and check play?

 

[Easter Bunny]

You just described exactly what I was experiencing when I had a worn out sway bar end link. It was very obvious as soon as I fooled with it

 

[Lazza151]

Tie Rod Ends closest to the wheel may also be the culprit. Grip Tie Rods and try to rotate them on their horizontal axis, vehicle must be on Jack stands or similar. There should be no play.

 

[90fish]

Didn't have the car in front of me so I totally blanked. Sway bar end links were replaced, I will see if they came loose or something. Ill try tie rods also! Thanks guys.

 

[90fish]

Bringing this back, it has now developed to both sides. Only braking or accelerating from a complete stop. Popping happens independently of each other, sometimes one will and the other won't or it'll happen at different times. Torqued every suspension and subframe bolt up front to no avail. Going to install new axles next? Happens when turning from a stop as well, or for example, rolling up a driveway from the street. CV axles have been torqued properly! Checked tie rods, they were ok. Same with end links. They are new and have no play.

 

[Easter Bunny]

seriously end links

 

[90fish]

There is no play and they are brand new. Is there something I could be missing with them? On second thought, I don't know that they came pre greased. They have zerks on them... They are aftermarket.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Grease them to make sure then

 

[90fish]

Welp, greased them and that changed nothing. Here is the link to what I bought. They have probably 10k miles on them.

Part - Mevotech

This is the page content

www.mevotech.com

My other idea was it's because they are non adjustable and I am on aftermarket suspension? Doesn't make a ton of sense though since I had no issues on stock sway bars.

 

[90fish]

Turns out LCA bushings on both sides are fuuuuuuuucked lol

 

[Easter Bunny]

got a picture?

 

[90fish]

got a picture?

No, but some coworkers watched me crank the wheel full lock each way and watched the rear bushings buckle and shift along the bolt, even though the bolt is completely tight.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Diamond motorsports has urethane bushings you can press in. I did it to my car it wasn't that bad once I warmed the bushings up and made a huge difference. Depending on your mileage might want to start with brand new control arms from the dealer

 

[90fish]

I was going to go the brand new arms from dealer route since the lower ball join bushings are also worn/cut open. I also don't autocross the car or anything like that, but I definitely want to do some serious handling mods maybe in the spring. For now, ill just go dealer route and think about new bushings later.

 

[Easter Bunny]

uhh if you are ever going to install the bushings you should do it before you put the arms on otherwise you are doing all of the same work twice and running a risk of messing up the ball joints when you remove them. once you buy the bushings its an easy install.

i also believe that if you buy the bushings and arms through @Matt@DamondMotorsports they will put the bushings on for you