GCPhotographers Build

I have a oil temperate and pressure sensor contacted my my oil set up (sammich plate). It's been doing be great justice for some time now. It's cool to how to oil temperate sky rockets after a wot log or so then to Coolant temp goes up a little to cool it down.

Are you running an external cooler or just a plate with the sensor bungs? Id be curious to see what the pressure drop is.
 
Got me a workbench from HF just for organizing all the internals I will need. When everything comes in, I will have it all lined out. I will purchase of the lube needed after the machine shop visit. My build time frame will start around November. My salary is not the best. One part at a time.

Side note, I got my parts in from Raider today. Looking forward to putting it together.
 

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Slowly but surely my set up it coming together and the parts are coming in slowly.
 

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Got me this valve keeper remover and install.should be fun.
[doublepost=1488661255][/doublepost]
Got me this valve keeper remover and install.should be fun.
So in less than 20 minutes, I was able to remove the valves and valve springs. This tool is perfect. I have to label the sandwich bags. I pulled with the intake side facing me. Intake valves were carbon jacked but the exhaust side was awesome. Looks like a valve cleaning was never done.

I'm still debating if I should stay with oem set up or port the valves and go with Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves +1mm Head Size/OEM Style Face with OEM springs (maybe 70lbs),
Supertech Exhaust Valves Inconel Std Size on Supertech Valvetrain Kit that comes with springs, guides, and valve seals....or just stay with the OEM set up for the head.
 

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70 lb springs may be a little high for what your goals are. The added wear on your cams might be unnecessary unless you are going for super high boost (+40psi) and/or revving over 8k rpm. I have 55 lb springs in mine which should be fine for 30psi and 7500rpm since comparable engines that rev to 8k have 55 lb springs stock.
 
Just got the injectors back from InjectorRx. I like the data that they give showing the inspection they did. They upgraded the brackets to stainless steel
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70 lb springs may be a little high for what your goals are. The added wear on your cams might be unnecessary unless you are going for super high boost (+40psi) and/or revving over 8k rpm. I have 55 lb springs in mine which should be fine for 30psi and 7500rpm since comparable engines that rev to 8k have 55 lb springs stock.
Thanks for the knowledge. I will go with 55
[doublepost=1488677149][/doublepost]Did you upgrade to brass guides?
 

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Just got the injectors back from InjectorRx. I like the data that they give showing the inspection they did. They upgraded the brackets to stainless steel
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Thanks for the knowledge. I will go with 55
[doublepost=1488677149][/doublepost]Did you upgrade to brass guides?

Yes i have bronze guides but the service interval is shorter so just be aware if its going to be your daily.
 
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Doesn't everyone stick with stock valve guides, or a standard upgrade that's been proven? I haven't read up on this topic very much...
 
I guess I will stay OEM.

In this valve stem (http://edgeautosport.com/supertech-...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/), Edge said: This valve will fit the Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazdaspeed 6 models ONLY when used with the upgraded Supertech valve guides and seals. If you are looking to replace the valves only and reuse the factory guides and seals, please search part number MAEVI-2301D-6mm (exhaust) and MAIVN-2301D-6mm (intake).

For the +1mm (http://edgeautosport.com/supertech-...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/), Edge said the same even for the
Supertech Intake Valves Nitride Std Size/Flat.
 
I am getting different takes on keyway. Is it necessary and/or worth it? Is it just driver error? I saw the G series was mazda so called improved and keyway is stock for it. I've heard many 800+ whp cars without it and then I many with 500 or 600 with failure.
 
I am getting different takes on keyway. Is it necessary and/or worth it? Is it just driver error? I saw the G series was mazda so called improved and keyway is stock for it. I've heard many 800+ whp cars without it and then I many with 500 or 600 with failure.
FWIH, it's nice peace of mind/insurance, particularly if the friction washers aren't done right. But there are many high whp cars doing fine without the keyway/pinned cams.
 
So I will be back from Syria in about 3 weeks. When I stopped in Iraq, I was able to get a little free time online and purchased another long block for about $500. After the photos, all it needs is sleeves....at the same time, I'm not sure what I will do with it. I might just do a stock rebuild and sell it to get back some money from all these expenses. Also last week, I purchased a built Pu with electrical issues for an unbeatable, Nator, military, and friendship deal. Hopefully the electrical issue doesn't cost me much. For the meantime while working on the main build, I might take that built engine out and put it into my pu...get Hypnotic to tuned it. From the build specs and previous owner, it's 650 capable.
 
It's been a while since I posted. I am still looking at doing this but it will take come time as I am investing in my business for marketing reasons for car parts. Right now, I have a 2011 in my garage I want to put together as well before the build...swap the 65- motor to my 2012 pu and run that for now and sell the 2011. @NewAgeAutoParts have been going in getting all the essentials at a good ratehttps://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?members/newageautoparts.2056/
 
It's been a while since I been on here but work got the best of me with this new schedule but I should be able to get everything balanced in a month. If anyone knows where I can get a Kozmic Motorsports dump tube from because I am going to get a Hyper-Gate45 for my set.... it would be helpful
 
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