Having issues with startup

Rogan22

Rogan22

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Hello all, I finally dipped into the world of mods. My car is at 104k so I figured it was time to clean the intake valves and change injectors. While I was doing that I also put on

-Cobb AP/ working on Freektune from Justin
-corksport hpfp internals
-new injectors with corksport seals
-Damond egr delete
-Damond pcv plate and pcv valve
-JBR 3.5 full path intake
-CPE quickspool catted dp
-Mishimoto fmic with CX racing piping kit

after doing all that the car wants to start but won’t keep running. I’ve changed spark plugs as well and made sure they are at .026. I have a new fuel prv on the way hoping that is it but I could really use some help
Thanks in advance
 

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Are you getting any error codes? Check that ground near the hpfp and all your electrical connections. Also ensure your MAF is connected and isn't installed backwards. Another common issue is forgetting to plug the throttle body back in
 
I have my first MAP from Justin at Freektune, I wouldn’t want to mess with anything else knowing their isn’t any OTS tunes for my configuration of parts. I’m not getting any codes sadly would make this easier hah.. I have checked all grounds and made sure all plugs were plugged in including throttle body. Also rechecked all hoses to make sure their are no leaks. During start up the hpfp fuel pressure only hits just over 1000psi which is making me think it’s the PRV not allowing the proper pressure. Thanks for the input so for
 
Rogan22 said:
I have my first MAP from Justin at Freektune, I wouldn’t want to mess with anything else knowing their isn’t any OTS tunes for my configuration of parts. I’m not getting any codes sadly would make this easier hah.. I have checked all grounds and made sure all plugs were plugged in including throttle body. Also rechecked all hoses to make sure their are no leaks. During start up the hpfp fuel pressure only hits just over 1000psi which is making me think it’s the PRV not allowing the proper pressure. Thanks for the input so for
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To be honest with you, the only part you have that's really going to need tuning for is the larger intake. At WOT and stuff you'll need some MAFCAL around the DP/FMIC for the open loop shit, but that's not gonna keep your car from running. Right now your MAFCAL is set up for the original 2.5" intake, so you've added a shitload of air and the car doesn't know what to do with that. If you don't want to flash a tune for the 3.5" intake for some reason, you can put the original intake back on to verify that's the problem.
 
VashEXE said:
To be honest with you, the only part you have that's really going to need tuning for is the larger intake. At WOT and stuff you'll need some MAFCAL around the DP/FMIC for the open loop shit, but that's not gonna keep your car from running. Right now your MAFCAL is set up for the original 2.5" intake, so you've added a shitload of air and the car doesn't know what to do with that. If you don't want to flash a tune for the 3.5" intake for some reason, you can put the original intake back on to verify that's the problem.
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VashEXE said:
To be honest with you, the only part you have that's really going to need tuning for is the larger intake. At WOT and stuff you'll need some MAFCAL around the DP/FMIC for the open loop shit, but that's not gonna keep your car from running. Right now your MAFCAL is set up for the original 2.5" intake, so you've added a shitload of air and the car doesn't know what to do with that. If you don't want to flash a tune for the 3.5" intake for some reason, you can put the original intake back on to verify that's the problem.
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But I have a custom tune for all the new parts I put on including the intake.
 
You didn't say that, so as long as that's the case, you need to get a log of this. It's all going to be guess work, but you almost definitely have a huge vacuum leak then. You changed a ton at once, so you need to start with a boost leak test and go from there probably. Logs would give more pointers though.
 
You can verify vac leak or MAFcal issues by disconnecting the MAF and starting the car. If the car starts, you've (probably) not got a leak between the throttle and head, but if it doesn't start, I'd check for leaks by doing a boost leak test.

If it does start, get a log to post up here, and continue testing.
 
Update-
I went back through (again) and re torqued everything I touched to spec and still nothing. But once I went a little extra on the intake manifold it wanted to start. I was able to get to start up by slightly feathering the throttle until it calmed down and wanted to idle on its own. I got a log of it but I don’t know how to post it here
 
LTFT is >8% out so could be improved but looks OK to me otherwise. Anyone else want to chime in?
 
I doubt the PRV is an issue, you're seeing around 500-600 psi on the HPFP idling. Did you check all your ground connections since you had the intake manifold off? Is the video you attached the longest it will actually run or if you slightly give it gas will it attempt to idle?
 
L337TurboZ said:
I doubt the PRV is an issue, you're seeing around 500-600 psi on the HPFP idling. Did you check all your ground connections since you had the intake manifold off? Is the video you attached the longest it will actually run or if you slightly give it gas will it attempt to idle?
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No it can run as long as I want it to now, the video was one of the first start ups. After checking things over 100 times it wanted to stay running. The log was the smoothest it was last night. It sounded like it was struggling at first
 
Sounds like you had a massive leak somewhere that's better now. Wonder if the vcts actuator sensor bracket got bent / broken little piece that hits that button on the far right of the intake manifold by the circle thing
 
So I was able to take the car out for a little cruise, definitely some kinks to work out. While giving it more than 40% throttle it sounds like a damn bee beating against a window and shudders awful. It threw a code for misfire cylinder 1 so cleared it then said it for cylinder 2. Cleared it again still acting the same but not throwing codes. I have another new set of plugs coming in tomorrow. Maybe 1 or 2 of the new injectors aren’t running right or is that something that can be worked out in the tune?
 
Rogan22 said:
So I was able to take the car out for a little cruise, definitely some kinks to work out. While giving it more than 40% throttle it sounds like a damn bee beating against a window and shudders awful. It threw a code for misfire cylinder 1 so cleared it then said it for cylinder 2. Cleared it again still acting the same but not throwing codes. I have another new set of plugs coming in tomorrow. Maybe 1 or 2 of the new injectors aren’t running right or is that something that can be worked out in the tune?
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This is not gonna be the tune most likely. Check the ground on the HPFP housing and the harness for the coils and injectors. It sounds like something is fucky and you were obviously messing with all that when you swapped the injectors and everything else.
 
VashEXE said:
This is not gonna be the tune most likely. Check the ground on the HPFP housing and the harness for the coils and injectors. It sounds like something is fucky and you were obviously messing with all that when you swapped the injectors and everything else.
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So after checking and re checking everything I went back and put in the old injectors in cylinder 1,2. Those were the ones that were throwing codes first then it continually was saying multiple misfires. After driving it around it was only saying cylinder 3 was misfiring so I’m thinking the (new) injectors aren’t flow synced. Causing all my issues
 
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