Here is my write up for how to reseal the oil pan. Removing the transmission is not required. Neither is removing the timing cover. I checked the time in ProDemand and it states flat rate time is 5.6 hours. Realistically it should take about 1-2.
TOOLS NEEDED
1/4" Drive Ratchet
8mm deep well socket
14mm socket
12mm socket
Electric/Air 1/4" Drive Ratchet (speeds up the process)
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar or Crows Foot bar
Pick Tool
Caulk Gun
Razor Blades
Brake Parts Cleaner or Parts Washer
Drain Pan
Rubber Mallet
PARTS NEEDED
Engine Oil
Oil Filter
Oil Resistant RTV (I normally use this but had a spare tube of Three Bond RTV from warranty work)
Start off by lifting the vehicle enough for you to get underneath. Open your hood and remove the oil cap. Set the cap where your hood latch is. I doubt you will forget to refill the oil later on but this is a good thing to do so you don't.
Remove your skid plate (if equipped). I'm lazy and have been dealing with this leak for over a year so don't let yours end up like this
Next drain the engine oil and remove the filter. Allow as much to drain as possible. Once the oil is drained put the drain plug back in but don't tighten it down. If you are running a OVC Pipe with a front mount you will need to remove the piping in front of the intake manifold at this time. If you are TMIC I don't think you need to remove the intercooler. Now unbolt the dipstick tube from the intake manifold. It is a small 8mm bolt just above this harness.
NOTE: You do not need to remove the dipstick tube from the car. Remove the bolt and pull the tube away from the pan. Leave it hanging in the engine bay. See the picture below on removoing the bolts to see where I left it resting against.
Remove the following bolts from the oil pan itself.
13x 10mm bolts. Two are long at the transmission side of the pan.
4x 14mm bolts. Two fact the transmission, Two face the pan. These are the lower bell housing bolts
4x 8mm bolts at the bottom edge of the timing cover
Now you can pry the pan down with all the bolts removed. The locations I used are here. Work it back and forth SLOWLY to make sure you don't crack anything
Once the pan is down begin the process of cleaning it up. Here is mine in the parts washer. As you can see there is a lot of varnish build up and some black gunk at the bottom. There was hardly any sealant on the pan or the block.
Use Razor blades to clean the sealant surfaces on the top of the pan and the timing cover side of the pan. Clean the block surface and timing cover surface as well. The parts washer got it cleaned up nicely. I removed the baffles to clean it out really well. Make sure to reinstall them. In the image below you will see a recessed area at the rear section of the pan on the sealing surface. Clean the old RTV out with a pick.
Now grab the caulk gun and RTV. Run a bead along the front area of the pan where the timing cover meets and along the top. Keep the bead of RTV along the inside of the bolt holes. It doesn't have to be a crazy thick bead or be spread out with your finger. I normally keep the bead as it looks in this image when I bolt the pan up.
Finally we are ready to get the pan reinstalled. I was able to slide mine into position with relatively no resistance. I noted a rubber mallet on the tool list in case you need to tap the pan up. Have at least two of the small 10mm bolts ready to thread in by hand helps. Get the pan pushed against the sealing surface and thread one front and one rear one in all the way.
Tighten them up in a cross pattern such as this
Then tighten the 4 timing cover to pan bolts and the 4 bell housing bolts
Next torque your drain plug to spec 23-30 ft/lbs
Install the dipstick tube back into the pan and tighten its bolt back up.
Fill your oil filter up with some oil and spin it on. Allow the vehicle to sit for 1-2 hours before adding oil so the RTV can cure. A full cure is usually 24 hours but an hour or two and it should be ok to hold oil
Add oil to the car and start it up. Make sure there are no leaks and no abnormal noise. Reinstall the skid plate. Lower the vehicle and you're done! Congrats on your freshly sealed oil pan
TOOLS NEEDED
1/4" Drive Ratchet
8mm deep well socket
14mm socket
12mm socket
Electric/Air 1/4" Drive Ratchet (speeds up the process)
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar or Crows Foot bar
Pick Tool
Caulk Gun
Razor Blades
Brake Parts Cleaner or Parts Washer
Drain Pan
Rubber Mallet
PARTS NEEDED
Engine Oil
Oil Filter
Oil Resistant RTV (I normally use this but had a spare tube of Three Bond RTV from warranty work)
Start off by lifting the vehicle enough for you to get underneath. Open your hood and remove the oil cap. Set the cap where your hood latch is. I doubt you will forget to refill the oil later on but this is a good thing to do so you don't.
Remove your skid plate (if equipped). I'm lazy and have been dealing with this leak for over a year so don't let yours end up like this
Next drain the engine oil and remove the filter. Allow as much to drain as possible. Once the oil is drained put the drain plug back in but don't tighten it down. If you are running a OVC Pipe with a front mount you will need to remove the piping in front of the intake manifold at this time. If you are TMIC I don't think you need to remove the intercooler. Now unbolt the dipstick tube from the intake manifold. It is a small 8mm bolt just above this harness.
NOTE: You do not need to remove the dipstick tube from the car. Remove the bolt and pull the tube away from the pan. Leave it hanging in the engine bay. See the picture below on removoing the bolts to see where I left it resting against.
Remove the following bolts from the oil pan itself.
13x 10mm bolts. Two are long at the transmission side of the pan.
4x 14mm bolts. Two fact the transmission, Two face the pan. These are the lower bell housing bolts
4x 8mm bolts at the bottom edge of the timing cover
Now you can pry the pan down with all the bolts removed. The locations I used are here. Work it back and forth SLOWLY to make sure you don't crack anything
Once the pan is down begin the process of cleaning it up. Here is mine in the parts washer. As you can see there is a lot of varnish build up and some black gunk at the bottom. There was hardly any sealant on the pan or the block.
Use Razor blades to clean the sealant surfaces on the top of the pan and the timing cover side of the pan. Clean the block surface and timing cover surface as well. The parts washer got it cleaned up nicely. I removed the baffles to clean it out really well. Make sure to reinstall them. In the image below you will see a recessed area at the rear section of the pan on the sealing surface. Clean the old RTV out with a pick.
Now grab the caulk gun and RTV. Run a bead along the front area of the pan where the timing cover meets and along the top. Keep the bead of RTV along the inside of the bolt holes. It doesn't have to be a crazy thick bead or be spread out with your finger. I normally keep the bead as it looks in this image when I bolt the pan up.
Finally we are ready to get the pan reinstalled. I was able to slide mine into position with relatively no resistance. I noted a rubber mallet on the tool list in case you need to tap the pan up. Have at least two of the small 10mm bolts ready to thread in by hand helps. Get the pan pushed against the sealing surface and thread one front and one rear one in all the way.
Tighten them up in a cross pattern such as this
Then tighten the 4 timing cover to pan bolts and the 4 bell housing bolts
Next torque your drain plug to spec 23-30 ft/lbs
Install the dipstick tube back into the pan and tighten its bolt back up.
Fill your oil filter up with some oil and spin it on. Allow the vehicle to sit for 1-2 hours before adding oil so the RTV can cure. A full cure is usually 24 hours but an hour or two and it should be ok to hold oil
Add oil to the car and start it up. Make sure there are no leaks and no abnormal noise. Reinstall the skid plate. Lower the vehicle and you're done! Congrats on your freshly sealed oil pan
