This thread was originally created by @GroceryGtr on MSF back in September 2016.
Updated 6/7/18 - Added info for an aftermarket shim kit one of our enterprising members found at autozone
Ok folks no pics as this is an easy process, but I will break it into a few different sections; symptoms, bearing replacement, full clutch replacement.
Bearing: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cross p/n: Santech MT2021 - Same as MS3 size.
Clutch: $80 - Comes with clutch, magneto, pulley w/ bearing installed, and new washers(important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cross p/n: CoolTech 476CKturbo
Amazon was the best price I could find. The MS6 is the same as the MS3 for the clutch, both are 124mm 6 ribs. Just make sure yours comes with new shims/washers.
Shim Kit: MT0986 “ Santech A/C Comp Clutch Installation Kit“ Available from Autozone for $3 vs. dealer $20. Still requires trial and erro to find the right spacing combo.
Symptoms:
So there are really only 2 reasons to do this repair. Either your car is making a nasty rattle/squeal/metallic clanking(bearing) and/or you've noticed your a/c randomly blows warm(Clutch). If the latter you can verify its the clutch by having someone look at the clutch(triangle with 3 bumps on outside of compressor pulley) and see if it starts spinning when you turn the a/c button on. If it stays still or rotates sporadically/slow then the clutch is the culprit. I'm not getting into what on the clutch fails because it doesn't matter it comes as a complete kit.
Note:
If you are a higher mileage vehicle I would recommend spending the extra $60 and just replace the whole clutch assembly. It saves you having to press out/in the bearing and only adds about 30 minutes to the job. Clutches operate off of friction, so the more miles the more likely it is your clutch surface is worn out.
Bearing Only Replacement:
Once again I'd only do this on low mileage or vehicles that have no issues with warm air and only have a noisey pulley.
Tools:
*Nut driver/screw driver to remove fender liner splash shield. Mine were 10mm.
*Long-handled box wrench or serpentine tensioner tool in whatever size yours is. Mine was aftermarket and used a 13mm. If you are fairly strong you can use a regular length box, but I'm a fan of mechanical leverage to save my strength for hold beer cans.
*12mm socket and flexi 1/4" ratchet. This is for the compressor bolts. You can do it with a box wrench, but its a PITA. Harbor freight sells a flexi ratchet set for $12.
*10mm deep socket for the clutch bolt.
*Impact for said socket OR a clutch tool to hold the clutch inplace while you break the bolt loose with a ratchet. Remember the clutch spins freely. Any man should own at the very least a quality electric impact gun, so maybe now is the time to step up your tool box.
*Snap ring pliers. Pulley snap ring is a spread type so any set should be fine, I use 45 degree ones which made it a breeze.
*Press is the preferred way, but I've done it with a ball joint removal kit in a pinch. Again, I'd recommend just doing the whole clutch if you don't have easy access to a press.
Process:
The MS3 is 100 times quicker because they have a removable splash shield where we have a metal body reinforcement. This allows them to remove the clutch and pulley without having to unbolt the compressor, making the replacement a 20min ordeal. Not the case for MS6ers. I did this on a lift which makes it a lot easier and saved me from having to remove the wheel(I'm lazy), but you can do this on stands.
1. Put the vehicle as high on stands as possible, or a lift if you're a baller.
2. If you are on stands remove the tire as you'll need the extra space to wiggle around on the ground....insert joke here.
3. Remove the fasteners for the underside part of the fender liner and maybe the first 1 or 2 fasteners in the actual fender. You'll be bending the shield back behind the brake caliper so remove as many as makes you comfortable.
4. Use preferred tool from list to remove belt from compressor pulley. You will be pulling down, which rotates the pulley up creating slack.
5. Compressor Bolt time. I strongly suggest a flexi 1/4" ratchet, but feel free to suffer with a box wrench. Passenger-side top you get from above, going under the p/s reservoir. The other 3 bolts you will get from below. All 12mm and come out fairly easy once broken loose. I left the top passenger side on the compressor and removed the other 3 completely. Pull the compressor towards the front of the car, it has a lip on the passenger side bolt holes to assist in holding it in place while bolting. You only need to move it a tad to angle the clutch down and forward about a half inch.
6. 10mm and impact time. Or clutch tool if you are lame. Single bolt in the center of the clutch that is pretty short. Once removed you will pull the triangle piece off of the pulley. It may require a screwdriver to wiggle it off depending on age/rust. Its a long splined shaft. Be VERY careful when removing this. DO NOT lose the 2 shims/washers that will either be in the clutch or still in the pulley side. They are the size of a contact lense and bronze in color. Mine were left in the pulley. Used a magnet to get and keep them from being lost.
7. The pulley is now only held on by a snap ring. Spread it apart and pull it out of the groove. The pulley should just pull off, but if the bearing is super trashed you may need to encourage it with either a screw driver wiggle or worst case a pulley remover. Mine was moderately trashed with 150K and only required a screwdriver to wiggle it off. Patience is key.
8. Press old bearing out and new bearing in.
9. Reassemble remembering to insert the 2 shim back into the splined part of the clutch. They space the clutch out from the friction surface of the pulley. Order is bolt, clutch, shims(2), pulley.
Clutch Replacement:
Tools:
*Above metioned tools and...
*Quality Phillips head screw driver for Magneto screws
*Stubby Phillips for cap retainer/bracket on top of compressor
Process:
Same steps as above up to and including #7 . And then these...
8. Unplug connector on top of compressor. If its still mounted to the bracket push it forward to unseat it from the slide on bracket holder. Not required but makes it easier to get the stubby in there to unscrew the bracket. THe screw is ontop, driver side block side corner. Bracket itself is a L shaped contraption that holds the cap in the compressor(circular metal button).
9. You may need a tiny flathead to get the cap out of the compressor, mine was glued in but not to difficult to remove. Just take yoru time and pry on the edges, you aren't reusing so don't worry about damaging wires.
10. Go back to the wheel well and remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the magneto on. These are torqued so make sure you are square and using a quality screwdriver, otherwise you will most likely strip them and be screwed... get it screwed har har har...
11. Install the new parts in the reverse order.
12. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE NEW SHIMS THAT SHOULD HAVE COME WITH THE KIT. If you do not you will be taking it back apart to either sand down the friction surfaces or go find new shims to correctly space the clutch from the pulley surface. When assembled the pulley should spin freely of the clutch. If it rubs or is hard to turn something is wrong and you most likely did not put 2 NEW shims back in. As a reminder the shims go INSIDE the splined shaft to space the clutch OUT from the pulley the correct distance.
Updated 6/7/18 - Added info for an aftermarket shim kit one of our enterprising members found at autozone
Ok folks no pics as this is an easy process, but I will break it into a few different sections; symptoms, bearing replacement, full clutch replacement.
Bearing: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cross p/n: Santech MT2021 - Same as MS3 size.
Clutch: $80 - Comes with clutch, magneto, pulley w/ bearing installed, and new washers(important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cross p/n: CoolTech 476CKturbo
Amazon was the best price I could find. The MS6 is the same as the MS3 for the clutch, both are 124mm 6 ribs. Just make sure yours comes with new shims/washers.
Shim Kit: MT0986 “ Santech A/C Comp Clutch Installation Kit“ Available from Autozone for $3 vs. dealer $20. Still requires trial and erro to find the right spacing combo.
Symptoms:
So there are really only 2 reasons to do this repair. Either your car is making a nasty rattle/squeal/metallic clanking(bearing) and/or you've noticed your a/c randomly blows warm(Clutch). If the latter you can verify its the clutch by having someone look at the clutch(triangle with 3 bumps on outside of compressor pulley) and see if it starts spinning when you turn the a/c button on. If it stays still or rotates sporadically/slow then the clutch is the culprit. I'm not getting into what on the clutch fails because it doesn't matter it comes as a complete kit.
Note:
If you are a higher mileage vehicle I would recommend spending the extra $60 and just replace the whole clutch assembly. It saves you having to press out/in the bearing and only adds about 30 minutes to the job. Clutches operate off of friction, so the more miles the more likely it is your clutch surface is worn out.
Bearing Only Replacement:
Once again I'd only do this on low mileage or vehicles that have no issues with warm air and only have a noisey pulley.
Tools:
*Nut driver/screw driver to remove fender liner splash shield. Mine were 10mm.
*Long-handled box wrench or serpentine tensioner tool in whatever size yours is. Mine was aftermarket and used a 13mm. If you are fairly strong you can use a regular length box, but I'm a fan of mechanical leverage to save my strength for hold beer cans.
*12mm socket and flexi 1/4" ratchet. This is for the compressor bolts. You can do it with a box wrench, but its a PITA. Harbor freight sells a flexi ratchet set for $12.
*10mm deep socket for the clutch bolt.
*Impact for said socket OR a clutch tool to hold the clutch inplace while you break the bolt loose with a ratchet. Remember the clutch spins freely. Any man should own at the very least a quality electric impact gun, so maybe now is the time to step up your tool box.
*Snap ring pliers. Pulley snap ring is a spread type so any set should be fine, I use 45 degree ones which made it a breeze.
*Press is the preferred way, but I've done it with a ball joint removal kit in a pinch. Again, I'd recommend just doing the whole clutch if you don't have easy access to a press.
Process:
The MS3 is 100 times quicker because they have a removable splash shield where we have a metal body reinforcement. This allows them to remove the clutch and pulley without having to unbolt the compressor, making the replacement a 20min ordeal. Not the case for MS6ers. I did this on a lift which makes it a lot easier and saved me from having to remove the wheel(I'm lazy), but you can do this on stands.
1. Put the vehicle as high on stands as possible, or a lift if you're a baller.
2. If you are on stands remove the tire as you'll need the extra space to wiggle around on the ground....insert joke here.
3. Remove the fasteners for the underside part of the fender liner and maybe the first 1 or 2 fasteners in the actual fender. You'll be bending the shield back behind the brake caliper so remove as many as makes you comfortable.
4. Use preferred tool from list to remove belt from compressor pulley. You will be pulling down, which rotates the pulley up creating slack.
5. Compressor Bolt time. I strongly suggest a flexi 1/4" ratchet, but feel free to suffer with a box wrench. Passenger-side top you get from above, going under the p/s reservoir. The other 3 bolts you will get from below. All 12mm and come out fairly easy once broken loose. I left the top passenger side on the compressor and removed the other 3 completely. Pull the compressor towards the front of the car, it has a lip on the passenger side bolt holes to assist in holding it in place while bolting. You only need to move it a tad to angle the clutch down and forward about a half inch.
6. 10mm and impact time. Or clutch tool if you are lame. Single bolt in the center of the clutch that is pretty short. Once removed you will pull the triangle piece off of the pulley. It may require a screwdriver to wiggle it off depending on age/rust. Its a long splined shaft. Be VERY careful when removing this. DO NOT lose the 2 shims/washers that will either be in the clutch or still in the pulley side. They are the size of a contact lense and bronze in color. Mine were left in the pulley. Used a magnet to get and keep them from being lost.
7. The pulley is now only held on by a snap ring. Spread it apart and pull it out of the groove. The pulley should just pull off, but if the bearing is super trashed you may need to encourage it with either a screw driver wiggle or worst case a pulley remover. Mine was moderately trashed with 150K and only required a screwdriver to wiggle it off. Patience is key.
8. Press old bearing out and new bearing in.
9. Reassemble remembering to insert the 2 shim back into the splined part of the clutch. They space the clutch out from the friction surface of the pulley. Order is bolt, clutch, shims(2), pulley.
Clutch Replacement:
Tools:
*Above metioned tools and...
*Quality Phillips head screw driver for Magneto screws
*Stubby Phillips for cap retainer/bracket on top of compressor
Process:
Same steps as above up to and including #7 . And then these...
8. Unplug connector on top of compressor. If its still mounted to the bracket push it forward to unseat it from the slide on bracket holder. Not required but makes it easier to get the stubby in there to unscrew the bracket. THe screw is ontop, driver side block side corner. Bracket itself is a L shaped contraption that holds the cap in the compressor(circular metal button).
9. You may need a tiny flathead to get the cap out of the compressor, mine was glued in but not to difficult to remove. Just take yoru time and pry on the edges, you aren't reusing so don't worry about damaging wires.
10. Go back to the wheel well and remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the magneto on. These are torqued so make sure you are square and using a quality screwdriver, otherwise you will most likely strip them and be screwed... get it screwed har har har...
11. Install the new parts in the reverse order.
12. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE NEW SHIMS THAT SHOULD HAVE COME WITH THE KIT. If you do not you will be taking it back apart to either sand down the friction surfaces or go find new shims to correctly space the clutch from the pulley surface. When assembled the pulley should spin freely of the clutch. If it rubs or is hard to turn something is wrong and you most likely did not put 2 NEW shims back in. As a reminder the shims go INSIDE the splined shaft to space the clutch OUT from the pulley the correct distance.
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