[SOLVED] HPFP Issue (in-tank pressure)

I have a similar issue to the OP that I’ve been trying to troubleshoot for the past week, scouring the forums and I really have run out of solid directions to go in.
When I do a cold start up, I have solid 1500psi that slowly drops down during warm-up as it should. if I blip the throttle once coolant gets above 100°F, fuel rail pressure drops down to tank pressure 50-60.
Once this happens, restarting the car brings me right back to tank pressure unless I let it sit for a while.
HPRV was replaced shortly after the built engine block two years ago, along with injector cleaning and bench testing courtesy of injector RX. HPFP internals were also replaced at that time because the autotechs had sent debris downstream and clogged everything (plastic screens were torn).

initially, I started by checking the two fuel pump relays and then moved onto disassembling and inspecting the HPFP. Nothing out of the ordinary there.

I then checked continuity from PCM pins from 2F and 2G to the spill valve on top of the HPFP. And NOTHING! this was tested with both ignition on and off. At this point, I was pretty confident that I had a break somewhere between the Bill valve and the PCM. Last night I ran jumpers between those two expecting promising results, only to find tank pressure right out of the gate on startup. I then reverted back, and I’m back to where I started. At this point, I’m hoping some of you OG guys may be able to help point me into another direction as you have before!!

Thanks so much.

Also, my signature should have most of the current modifications on the car. Let me know if it’s unable to be seen or if more information is needed
just going to put this out there that those on mobile devices typically don't see signatures. I know mine are off and most of my time viewing MSO is on a mobile device.
 
just going to put this out there that those on mobile devices typically don't see signatures. I know mine are off and most of my time viewing MSO is on a mobile device.
OK, thanks for the info on that! I was unaware that there was a difference between mobile devices and PCs

I would definitely try swapping with another spill valve and/or swapping with OEM internals if you can. These will give you solid troubleshooting info!

I have spare pumps at this point, but the parts have proven useful countless times for troubleshooting purposes. You can pick one up on eBay for around $100.
I wouldn’t trust the old autotechs that created over $1500 of parts cost last time between troubleshooting and injector cleaning and replacements, so I’m out of luck there. Also, it doesn’t look like spill valves can be found anywhere other than buying a Complete HPFP, but a complete fuel pump unit can be had on Amazon for $120 which would suffice for testing purposes if it absolutely has to come to that.
Also add to the fact that it’s my daily driver, and my income is at the absolute limit already, so I’m trying to pick everybody’s brains that might have testing ideas that might help me to isolate the problem.

i’m a mechanic by trade for the last 15 years so I have a wide array of tools to help me with this, so i’m hoping to avoid throwing 100’s or $1000’s at it worth of parts again unnecessarily unless it comes to it unavoidably.
The main thing that causes me to believe it’s not the internals, is the fact that the pressure is rock solid until I touch the throttle midway through warm up. that’s not to say it couldn’t be the spill valve though.
Also, I read in another thread (which is where I got the wiring diagram) that you should be able to test continuity from the spill valve connector all the way to 2F and 2G at the PCM plug. if that’s the case, that could be my issue right there if the spill valve is hanging open. and again, running jumper wires straight from connector to connector to bypass that part of the harness give worst results and no real pressure other than what the tank pump sends. But this wiring diagram didn’t show if those two wires travel through a relay or not, which could be skewing my results
 
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OK, thanks for the info on that! I was unaware that there was a difference between mobile devices and PCs


I wouldn’t trust the old autotechs that created over $1500 of parts cost last time between troubleshooting and injector cleaning and replacements, so I’m out of luck there. Also, it doesn’t look like spill valves can be found anywhere other than buying a Complete HPFP, but a complete fuel pump unit can be had on Amazon for $120 which would suffice for testing purposes if it absolutely has to come to that.
Also add to the fact that it’s my daily driver, and my income is at the absolute limit already, so I’m trying to pick everybody’s brains that might have testing ideas that might help me to isolate the problem.

i’m a mechanic by trade for the last 15 years so I have a wide array of tools to help me with this, so i’m hoping to avoid throwing 100’s or $1000’s at it worth of parts again unnecessarily unless it comes to it unavoidably.
The main thing that causes me to believe it’s not the internals, is the fact that the pressure is rock solid until I touch the throttle midway through warm up. that’s not to say it couldn’t be the spill valve though.
Also, I read in another thread (which is where I got the wiring diagram) that you should be able to test continuity from the spill valve connector all the way to 2F and 2G at the PCM plug. if that’s the case, that could be my issue right there if the spill valve is hanging open. and again, running jumper wires straight from connector to connector to bypass that part of the harness give worst results and no real pressure other than what the tank pump sends. But this wiring diagram didn’t show if those two wires travel through a relay or not, which could be skewing my results
have you tried cleaning the hpfp?
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/hpfp-o-ring-rebuild-michael-rey-facebook-kit.8069/

we're seeing another user with the same issue
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/help-with-fuel-pressure-weirdness-and-theory.16849/
 
Yes, I disassembled and cleaned the entire HPFP. My primary goal was to look for evidence of wear and tear or malfunction. None were present whatsoever. I’ve taken it down, cleaned and inspected the pump several times over the years so I’m very familiar with it and there wasn’t a single thing out of the ordinary. I was hoping to find some thing so I would at least have an answer but I struck out.
 
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Finally got some more time tonight after work for some more diagnostics, and I have continuity from both wires on the spill valve plug, to all 11 wires on the plug on the passenger side of the engine, just in front of the valve cover. This includes the part of the harness that goes to all four coil packs. so I now have that portion of the harness removed and I’ll be splitting the split loom apart to inspect everything next (hopefully in the next day or two).
Obviously, there’s no logical explanation for why there should be continuity here because those wires would all be interfering with each other and a ground also goes through that harness.
 
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