HPFP NOISE

King Crow

King Crow

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
So I just rebuilt my hpfp with e safe orings and have been driving it no issues at all. Then did a minor low gear pull and immediately lost the high pressure in fuel and it started making a horrendous clacking.
Only info I have on hand is if I unplug the pump. The noise nearly stops completely which leads me to think something electrical failed however I don’t know enough about the parts to know what to chase. Please help lol
 
What is your complete mod list? Just the access port?
 
How many miles are on this car? Have you considered the PRV? Have you taken any logs that show how your fuel pressure is behaving?
 
jsmith said:
What is your complete mod list? Just the access port?
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So in case it’s relevant. I bought this car with a blown engine. I bought a used engine from jdm something or other. Pretty sure it was a cx7 engine. I replaced all the timing stuff transferred the speed3 stuff.
New cts4 turbo.
Catted cobb dp.
Damond intake.
Hpfp internals.
New timing set.
Egr delete Damond.
3.5 bar map.
Recently cleaned and flow tested injectors rebuilt with GB O-ring kit and the over speed seals. Car ran for likely 15k then injectors were cleaned and I’ve drive. About 1k since then then did hpfp ray o rings. Cars tuned by freek e33 and 91.

Upgraded top mount as well. With gfb full vta since Damond doesn’t utilize recirc

Mtnbker3531 said:
How many miles are on this car? Have you considered the PRV? Have you taken any logs that show how your fuel pressure is behaving?
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The issue is at idle it doesn’t go over 250.also doesn’t build when giving gas. Turn the car off it goes straight to 70. Won’t build up. I just replaced the relief and the spill on top neither of them helped.

Cars at like 138k I think? Engine is sold as less than 70k so I’d wager worse case the engines got 85,000ish or less.
 
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King Crow said:
The issue is at idle it doesn’t go over 250.also doesn’t build when giving gas. Turn the car off it goes straight to 70. Won’t build up. I just replaced the relief and the spill on top neither of them helped.
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If you log this and disconnect the spill valve at idle, does the pressure drop to 70 or lower?

Also, when you had the pump apart, did it glide smoothly in the collar? What are you using to lube the pump?
 
Enki said:
If you log this and disconnect the spill valve at idle, does the pressure drop to 70 or lower?

Also, when you had the pump apart, did it glide smoothly in the collar? What are you using to lube the pump?
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So I haven’t logged it but plugged in I get an aweful noise. Pressure gets 190-200. Unplugged goes to 70-90 and sits. Cycle car off drops straight to 70 and does not build. Is it possible stuck injector? Or failed rail pressure sensor ..? Used engine oil to lube the o rings and everything glides in and out. The spill is smooth. The pump into housing is smooth. I took the side thing off idk what it’s called with the little wavy ring. Everything seemed nice and clean.
 
The fact that there's noise (and pressure) when running the PRV connected suggests it's an internals problem. If it were a stuck injector pressure should drop to zero.

What internals are you running and were they purchased new or used?
 
Enki said:
The fact that there's noise (and pressure) when running the PRV connected suggests it's an internals problem. If it were a stuck injector pressure should drop to zero.

What internals are you running and were they purchased new or used?
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Purchased with car. It has the two valve retainers so I know it’s the upgraded internals. Maybe I need to just buy a new set and try that?

I’ll try and post the noise in a video and a log asap
 
Mostly sounds like internals to me. Still though, pics.
 
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King Crow said:
What do you want pics of lol I lost my data log cable so I gotta get one tomorrow. by piston you mean I likely need new internals … f
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Pics of all around the pump area; under it, above it, from the side. Also fixed terminology in prior post.
 
I realized I never posted said pictures but I’ve since installed new cs internals and likely to no one s surprise my issue is not fixed. However it not drives with the same hpfp pressure it had with old internals and I realized the valve on top of the housing it self was the noise if I loosen the big nut it stops the noise entirely. Idk how tight that nut should be but I figured tight enough to snug the actual electrical connector but that just causes the noise to come back.
As for driving (I’m aware this isn’t a good idea but I needed info) if I drive around the car seems to run fine with lowish pressure readings. Idle still remains at under300. If I drive it around and wot or nearly wot to build boost it caps at like 13 and pressure is completely sporadic but never over 1k…. Idk what else to look at. It’s throwing a p0091. I also replaced the entire housing when I swapped internals. Starting to think the ethanol orings were just a giant waste of money …
 
What do you mean by replaced the entire housing when you swapped internals? Like you put a whole new HPFP in or had a spare?

Did you inspect/clean and check the spill valve for proper operation?
 
I had a spare. I bought my car with a blown engine. The used engine came with a pump. So I took all my bits out and put them in the used housing. However I believe the noise is only in the hpfp because the prv isn’t maintain the pressure the pump is trying to make lol. I wasted 400 dollars. Yay!
 
The spill valve (electrical connector on top) must be tight; there are clearances involved in its operation that if too loose, will cause it to not work at all.
 
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