I will read about it. This is my first direct injection car.
[SOLVED] HPFP not running
- Thread starter Ivanshinoda
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- hpfp low fuel pressure
Can you share you knowledge please?
No it doesn't matter how it's installed. There's plenty of instructions out there for hpfp install and none of them make mention of orientation of the cams
Because no one took off the entire fuel pump.
To install HPFP internals you have to remove the entire HPFP, so all of them did take off the entire fuel pump. It's run off of your cam which obviously can't time for the engine AND the HPFP, since it's just a metal rod with lobes on it.
I don't know, how do I tell if the balance shaft assembly is still on the car? I can just remove the oil pan?. I bought the car at an auction, it has like 6500dlls in performance parts
Actually, when I first drove it, it felt great, but it looked like a diesel truck except for the blue smoke instead of black smoke. Put six quarts and the blue smoke stopped.
Thank you, I felt worried about let the HPFP ''wrong'' installed.
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No, when I got the car the oil mark was beyond ''FULL''. was burning oil due to excessive amount.
Ok, here's the pics I took today
I don't have a securty torx bit so I couldn't remove one of the components of the HPFP
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So, I bought a used HPFP, but my fuel pressure just keeps coming from pump in tank. I connected a second spill valve while the car was running but it doesn't make anything. Checked the voltage from the spill valve conector with the key on car off and it reads 12v, and with the car on it reads 8v, I'm totally lost, continuity to ecu is OK, no short to ground... I'm totally lost, any suggestions?
I found the problem, I checked the spill valve connector voltage and it was 12v off and 8v with car on, but later checked the amps and it were .7ma, to low to activate the spill valve, so I added a 12v cable to the positive spill valve wire and it ran perfect, it build up pressure just normal, but I think 12v is too much for that solenoid.
It must be a ground problem or something like that. I will check the grounds.
RESPONDER
It must be a ground problem or something like that. I will check the grounds.
RESPONDER
QBAelectric
Greenie N00B Member
Ivanshinoda, did you manage to solve the problem? I have such a fault in Mazda 5, I am an electronics engineer, I will try to open the ECU and find the problem, but maybe you have already solved it? There may probably be a burnt mass in the PCM.
Yes I have, it was a bad ECU. found one used from Ebay for 50dlls + 70dlls for the marriage and problem solved.
What I did to determine that it was my ECU causing the problem was with the car running tap a cable from the negative of the OCV cable and the ground it to the chassis and hear a drop on the rpms. You MUST use a multimeter or refer to the repair manual to know which one is positive and negative. In my case my positive is fatter cable than the grond one.
What I did to determine that it was my ECU causing the problem was with the car running tap a cable from the negative of the OCV cable and the ground it to the chassis and hear a drop on the rpms. You MUST use a multimeter or refer to the repair manual to know which one is positive and negative. In my case my positive is fatter cable than the grond one.
Now you have me wanting a spare ECU that's married to my car just for troubleshooting purposes. Was it difficult to get done?
In my case ( I have a mazdaspeed 6) the ECU is below the steering column, not a big deal to remove it but if your ECU is like the mazdaspeed 3 located next to the battery it's a really simple task literally easy as 1 2 3 remove the old one, out the new one and program it. The programming just take like 5 minutes.