HPFP O-Ring Rebuild and Spill Valve- Michael Rey Facebook Kit

JohnnyTightlips

Motorhead
I recently rebuilt my HPFP and instead of putting it all in my engine thread I figured I would make a dedicated post.

UPDATE: Corksport now sells a kit for this as well. They are pretty much the same thing so whatever you can get, get that one. and their GUIDE

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This is actually pretty simple if you take your time and pay attention. Thanks @Bigelow and @Maisonvi for confirming the orientation of a few things I lost track of.

The o-ring kit is just a bag of o-rings and bolts. Not much to it.

Here are all the o-rings you will be replacing. You can really do this is any order but I found it best to start with one part and work my way through. I did take it all apart at once and laid them all out so I could keep track of stuff.

Tools Required.
32mm wrench "or get creative" - Spill Valve
Deep 18mm Socket - HPFP Internals
Security T-25 Torx Bit
3mm Allen head socket - for new bolts
Klean-Strip VM&P Naphtha "for cleaning internals and other parts"
Redline Fuel System Cleaner "for lube, bow chika wow wow"
Petroleum Jelly "Vaseline" to lightly lube the o-rings "I actually used silicone paste but they both work"
maybe more stuff I did not put it back on the car yet

1. Strip the HPFP down, you do not need to take off the bottom threaded pipe. A vice helps but be careful.
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2. Start Replacing O-rings

I simply compared the o-rings in the bags to the ones I was taking out to find the correct ones. It takes a but to find which is which as they are not labeled but it is not too hard and none of them are identical.

Spill Valve
This valve has one o-ring but while you are here you should take it apart and clean it.
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You want to pry the button out , do this slowly with a screw driver and work it on equal sides. Then clean it all with the Naptha and lube with Redline. I lightly lubed the o-rings with silicone lube.

This is how it looks taken apart and how it goes back together. Just press it back together by hand, no need to hulk as it fully seats when screwing it back into the pump.
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You can now re-install the spill valve into the pump

Now replace this one and re-install with new bolts.
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This part is a little trickier only because I forgot how it went back together.
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Once you get it open replace this guy.
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I took all the parts out and cleaned them. If you do this make sure to put it back together correctly.

This is the correct order the top is closest to the HPFP.
Washer with Lip "lip goes away from pump'
Washer
Pancake
Spring
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The other thing to note is that the top goes on a certain wait. The relief in the top goes on this side of the pump.
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Now to do the HPFP inernals. it has 1 o-ring on the outside as seen and one x-ring on the inside which is a little tricky.
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I had to get creative to get the keepers out and in.
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X-ring is inside that main part just below the spring, you will need to slide the spring off to get to it. I had to use a pic to get it out. I then folded the new one on it'self a little bit to fit it in the channel then let it expand into the seat. Don't forget to clean and lube all parts while in there.
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You should now be able to re-install but check it over that it slides nice and nothing is catching or feels off.

The last o-ring should be the one outside the interal pump housing as seen at the bottom of this pic.
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If I missed anything let me know.
 
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Thanks dude. What the guesstimated service interval on the hpfp?


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As needed I would think.

Unless you hit 100k, then why not?

My seals were shot at 66k miles, all original.
 
is there a link to this o-ring kit, or did you just order a bunch off McMaster Carr or something?
 
There’s also a thread here that lists all the necessary o-rings, the sizes, and where to get them yourself. They are unbelievably cheap. Recently did a rebuild for my hpfp...or new orings anyways. 35$ CAD for 10 of each oring required. im sure you boys in the states can get them for even less.
 
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If I just clean and replace the o-rings and not replace internal parts, should this be enough to fix a low rail pressure?
 
If I just clean and replace the o-rings and not replace internal parts, should this be enough to fix a low rail pressure?
What are you talking about the o-rings are the "internal parts" that get replaced.

Low rail pressure could also be caused by a failed PRV, sure if it's a gunked up spill valve or fuel pump this would fix it.

Let's discuss this in your thread https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/hpfp-low-rail-pressure.12423/

so that we can point you in the right direction before you start throwing parts and time at something that may not be the issue. (That being said I did this after 7 years 120k km just to he safe, but that's me).
 
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I had to get creative to get the keepers out and in.

Is there a website or someone on here where I can get just the retainer clip that holds the keepers in. Thank in advance
 
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