That's a total sleeper you got there 
I Can Haz Evo???
- Thread starter AYOUSTIN
- Start date
Got the car to blackhawk farms this past Saturday, unfortunately had to cut the day short after 4 sessions. Car kept overheating on every session and after 4 I decided I'd pushed my luck enough. Had a great time learning the course at least.
So the deal is the car is eating coolant under boost, my guess is the head is lifting during that time because it doesn't consume any coolant during normal driving. I've pressure tested the coolant system and it didn't lose pressure. In the next week or two I'll be pulling the head off to replace the head gasket and throw in some head studs, cams, valve springs and valve seals.
What I'm looking at is ARP 2000 headstuds, GSC beehive springs, and either FP4R cams or GSC S2 cams. I also considered the S1 cams as well. I don't want to sacrifice any transient response or mid-range power but I also want to pick up some top end power. If anyone has some input/experience on that it'd be greatly appreciated. Regardless of what cams I get I'll be doing springs as I think it'd be a good idea to change out the stockers with 98k on them.
And lastly, some good news, yesterday I finally got my CAE shifter in the mail! This thing is seriously amazing. Shifting is extremely notchy and crisp. The throws are very short for how high the shifter is and there's zero vagueness about going into gear. I'm a big stickler about having a good feeling shifter and I have zero complaints about this thing, hands down one of my favorite parts I've ever put on a car.
So the deal is the car is eating coolant under boost, my guess is the head is lifting during that time because it doesn't consume any coolant during normal driving. I've pressure tested the coolant system and it didn't lose pressure. In the next week or two I'll be pulling the head off to replace the head gasket and throw in some head studs, cams, valve springs and valve seals.
What I'm looking at is ARP 2000 headstuds, GSC beehive springs, and either FP4R cams or GSC S2 cams. I also considered the S1 cams as well. I don't want to sacrifice any transient response or mid-range power but I also want to pick up some top end power. If anyone has some input/experience on that it'd be greatly appreciated. Regardless of what cams I get I'll be doing springs as I think it'd be a good idea to change out the stockers with 98k on them.
And lastly, some good news, yesterday I finally got my CAE shifter in the mail! This thing is seriously amazing. Shifting is extremely notchy and crisp. The throws are very short for how high the shifter is and there's zero vagueness about going into gear. I'm a big stickler about having a good feeling shifter and I have zero complaints about this thing, hands down one of my favorite parts I've ever put on a car.
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Damn i hate being almost right
in all seriousness, have you even sold your ms6 yet?
It was gone weeks before I bought the evo. This isn't a big issue. The 4g is so much easier to work on than the disi.
Hope it's treating you well dude!
Well the car is a bit torn apart right now. Pulled the engine, trans and tcase out the bottom of the car last saturday to fix/upgrade stuff. Got the engine torn down earlier this week and found the fire ring on the head gasket was fried on cyl 1. Originally the plan was swap out the head gasket and do a clutch but I ended up buying a bit more. So all the parts I've got going in now:
- Comp Clutch stage 4 sprung clutch
- Comp Clutch lightweight flywheel
- Stock head gasket
- ARP headstuds
- AEM 320 lph fuel pump
- STM EGR delete
- Thermostat
- Radium clutch fork stop
- ACT monoloc
- ARP flywheel bolts
- Spoolinup SD harness and IAT
- Tial BOV
- MAP divided O2 housing gasket
- GSC valve seals
- Upper rad hose
- Other misc gaskets
Yesterday I looked at my bores and checked them out with a bore gauge. I was honestly quite surprised, original engine with 100k on it and plenty of track days and not only did most of the cylinder walls still have their cross hatching but out of round and taper were both under .001" almost everywhere.
So after seeing that I decided to order up some Manley pistons (9:1 CR std bore) and H beam rods as well as ACL tri metal bearings to drop in. My power goal isn't crazy high so I don't need the best of the best pistons and rods, they're more for piece of mind than going crazy with power. I'm thinking I should be able to get around 500whp without issue (and that would be plenty for me) but we'll see after I get it on the dyno at work
Lastly, I'm going to have the head decked a thou or two in case there was any small warpage and to ensure the new head gasket seals nicely. Also I'm pricing out materials currently to have one of the fabricators at work make me a titanium exhaust for the track, it's just going to be a short downpipe that comes straight down from the o2 housing and stops at the front axles or so, nothing fancy but should help remove considerable weight over a full exhaust.
I'll try to update with photos soon if I can get them over to my computer without too much fuss.
- Comp Clutch stage 4 sprung clutch
- Comp Clutch lightweight flywheel
- Stock head gasket
- ARP headstuds
- AEM 320 lph fuel pump
- STM EGR delete
- Thermostat
- Radium clutch fork stop
- ACT monoloc
- ARP flywheel bolts
- Spoolinup SD harness and IAT
- Tial BOV
- MAP divided O2 housing gasket
- GSC valve seals
- Upper rad hose
- Other misc gaskets
Yesterday I looked at my bores and checked them out with a bore gauge. I was honestly quite surprised, original engine with 100k on it and plenty of track days and not only did most of the cylinder walls still have their cross hatching but out of round and taper were both under .001" almost everywhere.
So after seeing that I decided to order up some Manley pistons (9:1 CR std bore) and H beam rods as well as ACL tri metal bearings to drop in. My power goal isn't crazy high so I don't need the best of the best pistons and rods, they're more for piece of mind than going crazy with power. I'm thinking I should be able to get around 500whp without issue (and that would be plenty for me) but we'll see after I get it on the dyno at work
Lastly, I'm going to have the head decked a thou or two in case there was any small warpage and to ensure the new head gasket seals nicely. Also I'm pricing out materials currently to have one of the fabricators at work make me a titanium exhaust for the track, it's just going to be a short downpipe that comes straight down from the o2 housing and stops at the front axles or so, nothing fancy but should help remove considerable weight over a full exhaust.
I'll try to update with photos soon if I can get them over to my computer without too much fuss.
Pictures of teardown stuff. Still busy cleaning up the deck on the block and washing parts but things are moving along. Should have pistons, rods, and bearings tomorrow and get the ring end gaps set as well as get the rods and pistons balanced. Shooting to have the bottom end reassembled tuesday and the longblock back together either wednesday or thursday.
So you'll be joining us at enmmw?Pictures of teardown stuff. Still busy cleaning up the deck on the block and washing parts but things are moving along. Should have pistons, rods, and bearings tomorrow and get the ring end gaps set as well as get the rods and pistons balanced. Shooting to have the bottom end reassembled tuesday and the longblock back together either wednesday or thursday.
crapatalk it sucks for free
Possibry. I'm bad at planning so yea...
Well you'll have a place in our co room if you can focus.
crapatalk it sucks for free
Progress is your middle name.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Done yet?
crapatalk it sucks for free
crapatalk it sucks for free
A bit behind schedule but I'd rather take my time than rush it. Pistons and rods are assembled, rings are filed (set top to .020" and second to .024"), deck is cleaned off, bores are honed, valves are cleaned, oil pan and pan rails are cleaned.
I would have the bottom end assembled if my dumbass didn't forget a ring compressor. Once I get the head decked I'll reassemble the valvetrain and get the head ready to drop on.
Need to pick up some other miscellaneous gaskets and new spark plugs. Hoping to get the car fired on sunday but that all depends on me being able to work on it. Assuming that gets done I'll get the engine and clutch broken in and hop on the dyno by the end of the week for a retune.
Not much progress today, had to leave early. Head is milled, it was warped in the same area the gasket blew out. Ended up taking off ~.003" total. I wasn't terribly fond of all the casting flash in the oil drainbacks on the head so I filed those smooth. Going to run the head through the wash tank one more time and possibly the sonic cleaner as well and then get it reassembled and ready to drop on the shortblock.
And more fail, I should have checked the box when I got it earlier this week but I was sent the wrong bearings. Got .025" unders instead of standards so once again the bottom end isn't assembled yet. Going to give a ring to a couple of evo shops in the area in the morn and cross my fingers that one of them has a set in stock...
First picture is the initial pass, ~.001 off. Second picture is final pass after another .002" taken off.
And more fail, I should have checked the box when I got it earlier this week but I was sent the wrong bearings. Got .025" unders instead of standards so once again the bottom end isn't assembled yet. Going to give a ring to a couple of evo shops in the area in the morn and cross my fingers that one of them has a set in stock...
First picture is the initial pass, ~.001 off. Second picture is final pass after another .002" taken off.
I assume you have checked the deck on the block?
Yup. Checked it on lunch before I started assembling the bottom end. Couldn't fit a .003" feeler between the deck and straight edge so all good there.
Stopped off at a dsm/evo shop this morning and got the right rod bearings so I can finish getting the bottom end together today.
[doublepost=1502498355][/doublepost]Didn't stay late today but shortblock is together, just need to slap the pickup and pan on. Going in tomorrow to get the longblock assembled and mated to the trans. Might be able to start vehicle install if there's an open lift.