I Can Haz Evo???

[Mauro_Penguin]

Yes I've got the S550. I've been looking into the vertical link and lock outs for the rear irs.

crapatalk it sucks for free

Just googled a visual of your IRS, man what a clusterfuck! I didn't realize how big and overdone the LCA is on those cars.

Before pulling the trigger, disconnect your sway bar and rear shock. Use a jack to raise and lower the suspension in the corner and watch the movement of each bushing. It might be worth it to keep some OEM ones. YouTube videos don't always do it justice.

Eccentric lock outs are nice if you get indepent adjustable components, but that can be overkill and kind of a personal preference. I locked out the MS3 rear eccentric and running adjustable camber and toe arms. It takes longer to dial in alignment but it's much more precise if you want it.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Yea lockouts are pretty nice.

Also, be sure that bushings you're replacing aren't already sphericals. Evos have a few bushings from the factory that are already spherical and guys throw in poly without realizing it's a downgrade.
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I recently got some spherical bearings like that for the mustang, same thing as far as the bearing being so tight it could barely move. It will break in and be fine.

Get some rubber seals to keep the grease inside those bearings and further protect them from the elements and road debris.

Is there like a generic seal for different sizes? I'd love to throw some seals in but didn't think they were a thing.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

This is where I've ordered for the MS3.

http://sealsit.com/product-category/rod-end-boot-rod-end-seal/

They have heim joint boots and slip in seals for bearings like yours.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

This is where I've ordered for the MS3.

http://sealsit.com/product-category/rod-end-boot-rod-end-seal/

They have heim joint boots and slip in seals for bearings like yours.

Thanks, I'll check it out. The genius that I am went back and read the product page for the bearings (because who reads before they order stuff right?) and it seems they are sealed teflon bearings. Maybe I'm just blind or maybe I have a different vision for what a sealed bearing is...

 

[Easter Bunny]

maybe they are "sealed"

 

[AYOUSTIN]

maybe they are "sealed"

They were sealed in a bag when I got them in the mail

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I have never seen a "sealed" or greaseless Teflon bearing that couldn't benefit from grease and a seal or boot. I'm not saying they don't exist, but to me they are about as real as Bigfoot and Unicorns.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

I have never seen a "sealed" or greaseless Teflon bearing that couldn't benefit from grease and a seal or boot. I'm not saying they don't exist, but to me they are about as real as Bigfoot and Unicorns.

I had a small chat with one of the guys on the evo forum about it. He said it'd be fine without seals and his offroad truck doesn't have any seals on his bearings. But on the other hand, they're $15 and not going to hurt anything so I'm probably going to pick up a set anyway lol

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

They won't fail, but without grease and a dustboot they can get surface rust and squeak. I suppose with a loud enough exhaust you won't hear it.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

What exhaust? lol

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Got my LCA bushings and tophats from SSB in the mail today. The quality is top notch and I can't wait to see what kind of difference they make! Monday I'll get the bushings pressed in and rip the front struts out of the car to get them cleaned up and change out the tophats. Also got the materials ordered for the splitter so I should hopefully have all that in the next week or two and can begin making that. Almost done with the design, just figuring out a decent way to save a few pennies on the front mounting cables.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Got all the bearings/bushings installed. Had a bit of a predicament with one of the bores for the front bushing. Whoever put the poly bushings in did a garbage job pressing out the factory bushing in the driver's arm and the bore was waaaay out of round, totally torn up. I smoothed it out with some cartridge rolls and coated the bore and the bearing shell in Loctite 660 which is a retaining compound. Turned out working pretty good so it all ended well in that regard. This weekend I'll get the snap rings for the bottom of the bushings and they'll be 100% done and ready to throw in the car!

I got the bolt spacers for the rear bushings today so I was able to test fit them. I miiight have to massage (read: hammer) the chassis since the LCA is pushed out so far. The bolts are kind of a bitch to get to line up but I'm sure it'll all line up nicely with enough wiggling.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

I had a free couple hours this morning so I got the framework for new trailing arms laid out. Just waiting to get the stock arm in the mail to get measurements and then I can adjust this model. These should give me enough inboard clearance to run up to 315 tires should I decide to go wider after my current slicks bite the dust.

[doublepost=1518140894][/doublepost]And onto V0.2. I'm getting a lot better at making parts modular so making big changes only requires a couple keystrokes.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Got a lil gift from Feline Phallus Motorsports. Now to find a good place to put em.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Got the design finalized for the splitter. Just have a few dimensions to double check and then it's getting cut out this Thursday. I ended up actually starting all over because I wasn't happy with how the curve I was using for the air dam fit up to the car so I measured off my current splitter to get the curve dialed in better. Still at a 5" extension, I might have a spare cut out at 6" or 7" in case 5 doesn't do enough.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Progress hasn't been staggering and the car needs to be together by the end of this week so it's crunch time. Over this weekend I got the wiring in the engine bay done (mostly), and got everything back together mechanically except for throwing the radiator back in and making one catch can line.

The front struts have been pulled out, cleaned up and had the SSB camber plates put on.

I reloomed my wideband harness since it was covered in some tired, cracked plastic tubing. God I love woven looms.

This week I'll need to get the interior back together, get the offset spacers made for the LCA bushings, reassemble the front suspension, get an alignment, put fluids in the car, radiator, catch can line, get my tires mounted and make two more center caps for my wheels and tie up a couple loose wires. After I'm back from my spring break in two weeks the two big fish left for me to kill are getting the new oil pan made as well as the new splitter, and finishing the wiring on the inside of the car.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Im kinda surprised that at this point you don't do your own alignments. Compared to everything else that you have done it would be easy.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Im kinda surprised that at this point you don't do your own alignments. Compared to everything else that you have done it would be easy.

My old roommate had some toe plates but he took them with him when he graduated. Eventually I'll get some alignment tools but I've been avoiding buying tools for the past year because I don't know how much room I'm going to have for toys after I've graduated. Also I'm broke.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Setting caster and camber is easy. $30 pyrometer and a lot of patience will get you where you want. Toe needs to be precise. $180 at a tires plus or such can get you a 3 year OR unlimited alignment. You just need to find a shop with competent people, which is sometimes difficult.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Setting caster and camber is easy. $30 pyrometer and a lot of patience will get you where you want. Toe needs to be precise. $180 at a tires plus or such can get you a 3 year OR unlimited alignment. You just need to find a shop with competent people, which is sometimes difficult.

Yea I'm sure I'll get some tools for it eventually. The past few years I've just taken it into the service area we have at school where I can get an alignment done for $10.