JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Sounds good, will let you know when I get that far.
JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
- Thread starter JohnnyTightlips
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- 56k warning gen juan zzb
5doorsoffury
Greenie N00B Member
Are you going to asseamble the short block or are you going to let a machiene shop do that part?
Are you worried that you bought pistons before knowing what the blocks bore will be machiened to?
What do you plan on for fueling? Just a pump uograde then tee ut off from the HPFP or are you going full on return setup with a fpr?
Are you worried that you bought pistons before knowing what the blocks bore will be machiened to?
What do you plan on for fueling? Just a pump uograde then tee ut off from the HPFP or are you going full on return setup with a fpr?
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I will be assembling it all , I have watched a ton of videos on it and as long as stuff is in spec it doesn't really look to hard. This is part of the adventure.
I am not worried, the block I bought was a stock motor that spun a rod bearing and the walls all look great. If worse for worse I could sell them and come out even. I plan to have the block bored out to 88 and decked
I have not fully decided on fueling yet. I would either like to go with Aeromotive 325 Stealth in tank and T it to the PI rail. My other option would be to put a 2.5 gallon cell where the battery is and just fill it with straight corn. This would require me to move the battery but that is not a big deal. I would not have to do mixing if I did that which is nice but also a lot more custom work. Either way I will be using PTFE lines as they seem like the best bet for e85 and secure nicely. If I do the in tank pump I will be also doing a flex fuel sensor so I can see what my mix is.
Updates: Took the starter off and found the rod peaking its head out. It took a little chunk out of the starter too.
KiwiFlavor
Greenie N00B Member
Dat rod be like
Thread title is misleading; OP has not yet had to sell his children to fund this project.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
It's a shout out to KJ on the facebooks
any bolt on turbo is poverty turbo according to him lol. Maybe I will change the name a couple more times. 
KJ loves having multiple 
in and around his mouth at all possible times.
in and around his mouth at all possible times.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
KiwiFlavor
Greenie N00B Member
OP is slacking for sure!
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I have some updates but not much. Got the DP disconnected that was a total bitch. Studs and nuts were in there all of 20k miles so I am not sure why they were so hard to get out. A few of them rounded and just turned to garbage, I did not have these issues with the stock studs at 125k so idk.
Stud fun times - Like wtf? They all went in nicely , how they do this?
I also had a Mazda sausage party with @SharksInSpace and @deldran that was fun, we did not work on my car but got some parts swapped so the red one could be sold to @deldran as @SharksInSpace had bought @VoodooJef built pu.
Over thanksgiving I went back to the rents farm and nabbed my FPR off the Laser. It can be rebuilt if I decide to use it on the mazda. Laser was running when parked in 07 but had a bad turbo and I was in college with no monies. It is also such a rusty mess that I will be scrapping the shell and using the motor else where at some point.
I also lost my obd 2 reader so I picked up one for 10 dollars on amazon that seems to work well with tq and actually has decent pid reads for a cheapo one.
I am just about ready to pull the motor but the axles will not leave the hub. I had planned to buy new axles and hub/bearings so at this point I will likely pull them from the trans then buy a press and press them out if the knuckles if I can. I tried heat, hammer, bigger hammer, air hammer, etc etc to no avail. I will be pulling the axles out the trans and pressing them out of the kuckle on a press. At this point fuck it. New knuckles are 120$ if I have to go that crazy.
This is what I plan to get for the knuckles when the time comes. Timken has good reviews and comes with the magnet for abs/speed sensor. I will be getting a Harbor Freight press to do the work. I also plan to get the ebay DTA axles.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272734818918
I have started making a tool to pop the axles out of the trans that @CMajor posted from a youtube vid he found. We will see how it works in a few days if I get around to it. After the axles are out the motor is ready to pull.
Stud fun times - Like wtf? They all went in nicely , how they do this?
I also had a Mazda sausage party with @SharksInSpace and @deldran that was fun, we did not work on my car but got some parts swapped so the red one could be sold to @deldran as @SharksInSpace had bought @VoodooJef built pu.
Over thanksgiving I went back to the rents farm and nabbed my FPR off the Laser. It can be rebuilt if I decide to use it on the mazda. Laser was running when parked in 07 but had a bad turbo and I was in college with no monies. It is also such a rusty mess that I will be scrapping the shell and using the motor else where at some point.
I also lost my obd 2 reader so I picked up one for 10 dollars on amazon that seems to work well with tq and actually has decent pid reads for a cheapo one.
I am just about ready to pull the motor but the axles will not leave the hub. I had planned to buy new axles and hub/bearings so at this point I will likely pull them from the trans then buy a press and press them out if the knuckles if I can. I tried heat, hammer, bigger hammer, air hammer, etc etc to no avail. I will be pulling the axles out the trans and pressing them out of the kuckle on a press. At this point fuck it. New knuckles are 120$ if I have to go that crazy.
This is what I plan to get for the knuckles when the time comes. Timken has good reviews and comes with the magnet for abs/speed sensor. I will be getting a Harbor Freight press to do the work. I also plan to get the ebay DTA axles.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272734818918
I have started making a tool to pop the axles out of the trans that @CMajor posted from a youtube vid he found. We will see how it works in a few days if I get around to it. After the axles are out the motor is ready to pull.
I miss ol' Red. 
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
It's a treat to see her in the parking lot when mine is down, thank you for your sacrifice.I miss ol' Red.
Is there any other way?
KingScumbag
Greenie N00B Member
Looks like things are coming along.
Couple things to note here. Good on you for going strait to 88mm bore size. I don't recommend anyone stay OE size on a used block of any amount of miles.
Onto the head work. I know it's a "poverty build" but I'd highly suggest at least getting new valves before you spend hours and hours self lapping the seats. This will make your order of buckets irrelevant but I have a spreadhseet that floated around for a while that just plugs in clearance and measurements then pops out the bucket size you need whether +/- size. Also if your dead set on doing the valve work yourself I'd recommend at least sending the bare head with the block to the machine shop and let them hot tank it and make sure the seats can still be used.
I've sent 5 or 6 heads now to my machinest and two of them had bad valve seats beyond lapping repair.
Just about every head I've sent with valves other than one with burnt valves has had a few unsalvageable valves mixed in as well.
Just a couple of 2c. I also have 2 spare heads laying around plus all the buckets, springs and retainers. Feel free to hit me up if you need any sizes you dont have.
Couple things to note here. Good on you for going strait to 88mm bore size. I don't recommend anyone stay OE size on a used block of any amount of miles.
Onto the head work. I know it's a "poverty build" but I'd highly suggest at least getting new valves before you spend hours and hours self lapping the seats. This will make your order of buckets irrelevant but I have a spreadhseet that floated around for a while that just plugs in clearance and measurements then pops out the bucket size you need whether +/- size. Also if your dead set on doing the valve work yourself I'd recommend at least sending the bare head with the block to the machine shop and let them hot tank it and make sure the seats can still be used.
I've sent 5 or 6 heads now to my machinest and two of them had bad valve seats beyond lapping repair.
Just about every head I've sent with valves other than one with burnt valves has had a few unsalvageable valves mixed in as well.
Just a couple of 2c. I also have 2 spare heads laying around plus all the buckets, springs and retainers. Feel free to hit me up if you need any sizes you dont have.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Good to know, I will for sure be sending it to get looked over and cleaned. I bought all the tools to port it but we will see if I decide to get crazy as I know stock head flows well for my goals. I am still waiting for the dude to get me the cam caps for the head so we will see if that actually happens. Worse for worse I will use my head and hope that it's in good shape. From what I have seen the valve work is not difficult just time consuming and you need to pay attention. That spreadsheet would be great. I have 2 heads worth of buckets right now but will let you know. I might not even be doing any of this depending on what is going on with Marcs old motor. He was going to sell me a long block but it has bad compression. His builder was going to tear it down as there are only 5k miles on it so he thinks it is a head issue. I am not in a rush so as money comes I just keep chipping away at it. My hope is to get somewhat reliable 500+ whp DD.