Maisonvi Crank Pulley Tool

Maisonvi said:
So I just got a message from @DISIFTW with the attached picture of the crank pulley tool. Looks like there is an upper limit to how much force it can take.

This was trying to remove the pulley, so I guess at this point I will have to recommend that you dont use this tool to hold the pulley off. I thought I had done this before but maybe the one I removed wasnt as stuck as his was. We are guessing that there was at least 200 ft*lbs, maybe more put into this, so be careful if you rent one of these and are trying to break the bolt loose.

Ive used this tool for torquing the crank bolt multiple times (75 ft*lbs and then 90 degrees). So I think it should be fine for that still.
Click to expand...
Lesson learned, stand on the breaks in 6th gear and have someone use a 5 foot breaker bar with a long extention to reach the bolt. We combined multiple extensions and the extensions even started to strip a little. Torque lube may have been helpful but I forgot to order it in time. On a positive note, we got the job done and the car is running well

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
brainbot1 said:
Lesson learned, stand on the breaks in 6th gear and have someone use a 5 foot breaker bar with a long extention to reach the bolt. We combined multiple extensions and the extensions even started to strip a little. Torque lube may have been helpful but I forgot to order it in time. On a positive note, we got the job done and the car is running well

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The tool is very helpful for spinning the crank and getting top dead center lined us but should not be used to hold the pulley in place while doing the final 90 degree turn. That's what standing on brakes in 6th is for. The initial torque is enough to set the pulley in place

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
brainbot1 said:
The tool is very helpful for spinning the crank and getting top dead center lined us but should not be used to hold the pulley in place while doing the final 90 degree turn. That's what standing on brakes in 6th is for. The initial torque is enough to set the pulley in place

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This is odd to me, because Ive done the final 90 multiple times with the tool. Granted those have all been on an engine stand not in the car. Ive never done an on car VVT. Im going to try and find the torque needed for that final 90, and what the failure point of the tool is.
 
I think I read somewhere that the final 90 is ~ 175 - 200 ft lbs. The crank bolt may have been unique in that it yielded a lot before the final rotation. we didnt even get the full 90, more like 75. Like i mentioned earlier, we used a roughly 5ft breaker bar at full exertion which I estimate to be at least 300 ft lbs (5ft * 80 lb force * 80% efficiency). I would imagine that the crank pulley tool is absolutely necessary when doing this with the engine outside the car. in hindsight, taking the engine out of the car would have made the whole process much smoother. Some of those front cover bolts are difficult to reach, especially the power steering pump bolts but @DISIFTW is wizard and got it done.
 
We damaged the tool when we tried to take the bolt off on Friday night, its fine for tightening. I think the excessive forced used in trying to remove it by hand vice with an impact is what cause the damage.
 
brainbot1 said:
I think I read somewhere that the final 90 is ~ 175 - 200 ft lbs. The crank bolt may have been unique in that it yielded a lot before the final rotation. we didnt even get the full 90, more like 75. Like i mentioned earlier, we used a roughly 5ft breaker bar at full exertion which I estimate to be at least 300 ft lbs (5ft * 80 lb force * 80% efficiency). I would imagine that the crank pulley tool is absolutely necessary when doing this with the engine outside the car. in hindsight, taking the engine out of the car would have made the whole process much smoother. Some of those front cover bolts are difficult to reach, especially the power steering pump bolts but @DISIFTW is wizard and got it done.
Click to expand...

When you send that one back, I will check it out. I plan to test the other one I have here with me and make sure it can handle the crank bolt 90.
 
I would definitely be interested in this...will be re assembling my motor and car in about a month or two depending on when I can get a replacement head
 
I may be interested in the other one, if in fact you do decide to sell the last ones.
 
I know im late to the party here, but why not design a stop or tool to stop rotation on the flywheel side. Similar to the SST Flywheel/crank stop?

If i had acess to the tooling id make one but i dont. If you mount the engine on the stand as per the manual,.than there is no issues. This is what I use. This is something i found on google, but mine is virtually the same.

I want to make one that has a flange that you can bolt to the crank/flywheel end on all bolt holes and then option for spot the stop the long end.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150415_163914 (1).jpg
    IMG_20150415_163914 (1).jpg
    271.1 KB · Views: 34
KingScumbag said:
I know im late to the party here, but why not design a stop or tool to stop rotation on the flywheel side. Similar to the SST Flywheel/crank stop?

If i had acess to the tooling id make one but i dont. If you mount the engine on the stand as per the manual,.than there is no issues. This is what I use. This is something i found on google, but mine is virtually the same.

I want to make one that has a flange that you can bolt to the crank/flywheel end on all bolt holes and then option for spot the stop the long end.
Click to expand...

Main point of this tool was to be able to use it with the engine in the car (which people can and do) I just happened to have the engine out when I used it. Your method would work as well, and I thought about it, but this way made helping people with VVT swaps possible.
 
Well in that case i have a generic ebay tool I use at work for the Ford 2.3 in the belt loader units. Yet to need it or try it on the mazda or a mazda while still in the vehicle. The last few ive done were during engine assembly. But the pullys are virtually the same. As well as tq procedures. Ill have to bring it home and test it out.

Im sure there are cheaper options then attached picture. But thats what I use at work.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20170324-072417.png
    Screenshot_20170324-072417.png
    498.2 KB · Views: 35
KingScumbag said:
Well in that case i have a generic ebay tool I use at work for the Ford 2.3 in the belt loader units. Yet to need it or try it on the mazda or a mazda while still in the vehicle. The last few ive done were during engine assembly. But the pullys are virtually the same. As well as tq procedures. Ill have to bring it home and test it out.

Im sure there are cheaper options then attached picture. But thats what I use at work.
Click to expand...

Never seen that one before. Looks like it should work just fine though.
 
What would be great for removing the bolt would be a tool that bolts in using the starter mounts and grabs the flywheel teeth to lock the crank in place. A little built in adjustment where it engages the flywheel and it could hold the motor at TDC when tightening the crank bolt as well.
 
Ssinstaller said:
What would be great for removing the bolt would be a tool that bolts in using the starter mounts and grabs the flywheel teeth to lock the crank in place. A little built in adjustment where it engages the flywheel and it could hold the motor at TDC when tightening the crank bolt as well.
Click to expand...

But then you would have to remove the starter, which isnt the most fun job in the world.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top