Mazda and Ford Crankshaft

Ok, let's agree it is.

We are still looking for viable Ford keyed crank part numbers. Anyone?
 
Thanks for that man, did you happen to weigh them? Curious just how much weight is shaved off with the ecoboost crank.
 
That's huge, even though that weight is close to the rotating axis, it's similar to shaving of 5lb from a flywheel. Great stuff.
 
BAT-man said:
Ok, let's agree it is.

We are still looking for viable Ford keyed crank part numbers. Anyone?
Click to expand...
No part number for keyed crank for both Mazda and Ford Crank...

they never came keyed in the factory and has to be custom machined by a shop, which you would give the shop your crank oil pump gear sprocket, crank timing chain sprocket and crank pulley.

Sp63, Massive speed, overspeed does this service. Probably some local shop as well
 
No shit? There were rumors of keyed cranks... huh... That's too bad. Well, @Jimme T, what's the lightened crank part number above then, as a replacement I'd go with that, it's prolly way cheaper.
 
BAT-man said:
No shit? There were rumors of keyed cranks... huh... That's too bad. Well, @Jimme T, what's the lightened crank part number above then, as a replacement I'd go with that, it's prolly way cheaper.
Click to expand...

It's not a benefit of it being lighter or not, it's a comparable to stock crank that's half the cost...
 
Last edited:
This entire thread is making my head spin. There is no OEM keyed crank you can buy and I am tired of seeing updates from @BAT-man that are useless. If you @BAT-man want to find a lighter crank start looking but it will likely be in vain as if some magical lighter crank existed wouldn't people have already been talking about it? Instead of Disliking peoples comments why don't you do a modicum of your own research? I see you on here all the time talking wild theories but never actually doing anything about it. DO something productive.
 
JT, with all due respect, do you bother reading? We are now PAST the whole OEM keyed crank, whether Mazda or not. It appears that it was possibly just a rumor. We are now at a point where we KNOW a lighter version of a NON-keyed crank exists, which is cheaper, both of those qualities have been established before udntknw's post, and I have already asked for the latter's part number, which is why i disliked it. It was duplicative of what was already said and implied that we haven't acknowledged those facts.

There is a person in this thread (@Jimme T ) who used the latter - a lightened, cheaper crank. It would be nice to have them provide the part number. Aside from someone buying multiple cranks and test-fitting them to an engine, there is no real way to know which one he used. You, @JohnnyTightlips are welcome to DO that and put your money where your mouth is.
Since I, personally have searched for it without success, and would like to avoid buying random cranks, as any reasonable person would, it would be cool if Jimme noted the part number of this nicer for everyone's benefit.

I guess someone disliking people's comments is a pet peeve of yours? Sounds like a you problem. You are not the end-all-be-all of this platform. Being helpful is not a hall pass to being a dick.
 
BAT-man said:
JT, with all due respect, do you bother reading? We are now PAST the whole OEM keyed crank, whether Mazda or not. It appears that it was possibly just a rumor. We are now at a point where we KNOW a lighter version of a NON-keyed crank exists, which is cheaper, both of those qualities have been established before udntknw's post, and I have already asked for the latter's part number, which is why i disliked it. It was duplicative of what was already said and implied that we haven't acknowledged those facts.

There is a person in this thread (@Jimme T ) who used the latter - a lightened, cheaper crank. It would be nice to have them provide the part number. Aside from someone buying multiple cranks and test-fitting them to an engine, there is no real way to know which one he used. You, @JohnnyTightlips are welcome to DO that and put your money where your mouth is.
Since I, personally have searched for it without success, and would like to avoid buying random cranks, as any reasonable person would, it would be cool if Jimme noted the part number of this nicer for everyone's benefit.

I guess someone disliking people's comments is a pet peeve of yours? Sounds like a you problem. You are not the end-all-be-all of this platform. Being helpful is not a hall pass to being a dick.
Click to expand...
I did read the entire post, and he "weighed them" as best he could which seemed questionably accurate at best but it was the grain of information you needed to continue this thread and get into some weeds which you constantly do. I guess I better do all the research for you since clearly I have done nothing for this forum... and you are always so helpful and generous with your on point knowledge...... This is like Reline all over again.
 
@neganox posted a crank part number that's possibly the one @Jimme T used - EJ7Z-6303-B (currently replaced by udpated part LB5Z-6303-B)
Jimme, can you please confirm so we're all on the same page?
 
Last edited:
Hey sorry fellas but I never meant for my post to be taken as build info and it was to be taken with a grain of salt. That’s why I didn’t post detailed info on the difference in the actual weight. I DO NOT have the proper OR the correct way of weighing the crankshafts. I simply set the cranks on a scale that weighs people. The scale weighs in pounds not grains, grams or even ounces. I done it 3 times each. It was more for my own curiosity because there was such an obvious difference. If my post was misleading about the crank weight difference I apologize because that wasn’t my intention. I was just posting the info I had
Unfortunately I don’t have the part number available. Most of my pictures and info was lost when I switched my phone. Everything was documented and pictures were taken with it. I was hoping I had posted it in my build thread but I did not. I can tell you that when I ordered the crank I ordered it for a focus RS. Sorry I don’t have more info on that.
I’m old school and this is the first car engine newer than 1970’s I had built for performance. I was very hung up on the whole friction washer thing and wanted my crank keyed too. I’m not going to mention his name but a very reputable engine builder for our platform told me I was worrying about it for nothing. He asked how much power I was shooting for. I told him 600-650 and he said if I do the factory procedure correctly then there was no need for keying it. I looked at it 2 ways. 1. He builds these everyday in every configuration so he knows what works and what doesn’t. 2. I’m trying to give this man my money to do a service that I can’t. If he is telling me not to waste it then there is a reason. So far he has been correct on all the information he has given me and I haven’t had any issues with the motor.
Not sure if any of this is helpful but it’s all I’ve got.
 
Much appreciate the comment @Jimme T, it does help a lot. It's unfortunate but it may be that there is a smaller difference than you measured in the crank weight, but still, it's cheaper and 0.8lb is less weight to spin, per the below (courtesy of JT, who decided to be nice, btw):
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=8098667&postcount=29
Entire thread: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=608343

UPDATE: There is a good possibility that this keyed Ford Racing crank (part M-6303-23EB), a direct replacement for the 2.3 ecoboost mustang and RS cranks (part LB5Z-6303-B), will fit. At $388 (only $100 more than the ecoboost) it's a pretty good alternative. Thanks to @Sho for pointing that one out.
https://www.discountbandit.com/ford-performance-parts-m-6303-23eb-crankshaft.html?gs=1
 
Last edited:
Lol well it looks like his method of weighing is about as scientific as mine with his “very accurate” home scale. I’m not a gambling man but if I was I would put all my money on my cranks weight difference being more than .8 pounds. I weighed the same way he did and I also stood on the scale and had my brother hand me the cranks one at a time and check the weight with me holding the crank and not holding it. I done that without stepping off the scale in between holding them to make sure when handing them back to him the scale returned to the same previous weight. I’m sorry but I find my way much more scientific lol.
I will be ordering another eco boost crank soon for the engine build going in to my speed 3. When I take the rotating assembly to have it balanced I will have him weigh them both
 
How well are these balanced from the factory? I picked up a new 2.3EB crank and from what I've read, as long as they're balanced and zeroed as well as the flywheel it's all good, should I send it as is or take it and have it done somewhere?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top