My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread
- Thread starter jdr767
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This fucking sucks
jdr767
Greenie Member
Ever seen a grown man cry?
Ordered another master, Oreilly's should have it tomorrow by 8:30. Only thing I can think of is the end of the brake pipe rode up the threads? I dunno.
But yea it fucking sucks.
Try putting the lines onto the master off the car and keep them loose so they can wobble a bit.
It sucks you're having this much trouble. They do make brake fitting taps you could try but if the lines go into the old one then maybe the new one was already damaged before you worked on it.
It sucks you're having this much trouble. They do make brake fitting taps you could try but if the lines go into the old one then maybe the new one was already damaged before you worked on it.
jdr767
Greenie Member
I think I'll try that next. I know they fit at one point because I made sure to test - so it was probably something I did inadvertently at some point. Right now I need to not work on the car for an hour or so, heh.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Good new is the threads are not fucked (yay) and it was still the angle of the pipe preventing the threads from aligning. I did place the old pipe in where it should go just to see what it looked like in comparison - the same sharp "No fucking way that's going in" angle present.
I'll try and get another shot before I attempt this again, after some food.
Gonna have to improvise the bleeding again with the pipes on the master. Using my vice - while "level" - it tips too far forward to fill the reservoir properly.
Dude just bleed the master cylinder on the car. When you start the bleeding process just crack the lines open till they drip. Then close the fittings. Have someone slowly press the pedal down and hold it. Then crack the rear fitting till it spurts air out. Then repeat with the front. After that you should be good to bleed the whole system out.
jdr767
Greenie Member
So no luck with bleeding in car with the pipes on, well the rear one that's been my pain. Loosen loosen loosen no leak then it popped out and I had to pull everything back out again.
Everything is back together, car starts up. I will need to bleed both systems some more - clutch is not stiff enough and brakes...well...they are there at the floor so not enough pressure in the system yet. My GF is home for the day so I'm gonna attempt the bleed on the master again with her pushing the pedal instead of a brace bar, but being mindful of how far out the flare nut backs out.
Break time for a bit.
Everything is back together, car starts up. I will need to bleed both systems some more - clutch is not stiff enough and brakes...well...they are there at the floor so not enough pressure in the system yet. My GF is home for the day so I'm gonna attempt the bleed on the master again with her pushing the pedal instead of a brace bar, but being mindful of how far out the flare nut backs out.
Break time for a bit.
All you need to do is crack the master cylinder lines loose. Usually a half a turn and air can escape past the threads.
Then do the same at the ABS module
Then do the same at the ABS module
jdr767
Greenie Member
Ok got the girlfriend to lend a foot. Worked as intended and as you described. 4 or 5 times on each line just to be sure, both ends.
Bleeding all the calipers again and I'll give it another test.
jdr767
Greenie Member
First test drive was not successful. Made it around the block twice, brakes felt good - clutch needs more pressure.
Third go around and the brake pedal became stiff and felt like it was locked down - let off gas and the car slows. E-Brake on/off car had its brakes locked. Letting everything cool own and I'll look at it all again. May have messed, maybe I didn't tighten one of the caliper bleeder screws tight enough?
Third go around and the brake pedal became stiff and felt like it was locked down - let off gas and the car slows. E-Brake on/off car had its brakes locked. Letting everything cool own and I'll look at it all again. May have messed, maybe I didn't tighten one of the caliper bleeder screws tight enough?
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A stiff pedal won't be caused by a loose bleeder valve. You could have a bound up brake pedal, broken hose to the brake booster, something keeping the master cylinder locked, a stuck caliper.
jdr767
Greenie Member
I'm thinking its a stuck caliper. Running to the store for dinner - car should be cool and dry (holy shit it rained again yay) by then and I'll see what's up.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Put the car up and removed the master from the brake booster - pedal motion returns. So the master is seized up. I've had as much fun as I can handle today. Back out in the morning to see if I can 'un stuck' it. OReilly's has the master as of this afternoon and the GF is taking the day off so I'll go pick that up as a CYA - really need to get driving by Tuesday, have to go inspect new office building out in Irving.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Rained hard all night. I already had concerns with flooding in this room back here (my office). From about 12:00 until 2:30 I was mopping up water and laying down towels to attempt to keep the incoming water under control. 5 gallon bucket of water and all of my towels in the house later I went to bed - nothing can be done during this downpour anyways.
Dog also got the shits last night and we kept having to take him out to not poo. I'm exhausted.
Anyway back to the car.
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Reservoir drained and master removed. Found a length of tubing at AutoZone that should work.
Taking a look at the master the piston did indeed compress when pushed on, so that part works at least stand alone. Even though new I am slightly concerned about the brake booster push rod. It seems to be very loose - side effect of whatever caused the fail yesterday?
Picked up another one, well it is ordered and should be ready by this afternoon. Then I'm gonna do this shit 1 more time before I throw in the towel and get it towed. Apparently this is too much for my small brain to handle.
Dog also got the shits last night and we kept having to take him out to not poo. I'm exhausted.
Anyway back to the car.
-----------------------------------------------------
Reservoir drained and master removed. Found a length of tubing at AutoZone that should work.
Taking a look at the master the piston did indeed compress when pushed on, so that part works at least stand alone. Even though new I am slightly concerned about the brake booster push rod. It seems to be very loose - side effect of whatever caused the fail yesterday?
Picked up another one, well it is ordered and should be ready by this afternoon. Then I'm gonna do this shit 1 more time before I throw in the towel and get it towed. Apparently this is too much for my small brain to handle.
Is the brake booster adjustable? Some brake boosters are able to adjust push rod length and require a certain spec.
If the pushrod is loose and there is no adjustment at the booster then it is possible it is a faulty booster.
Another area to look for adjustment is if there are threads at the brake pedal where it connects to the rear section of the booster pushrod.
If the pushrod is loose and there is no adjustment at the booster then it is possible it is a faulty booster.
Another area to look for adjustment is if there are threads at the brake pedal where it connects to the rear section of the booster pushrod.
jdr767
Greenie Member
I'm not sure and checking on that - I didn't think so when I inspected it before hand I did not notice any sort of adjustment within the unit. I would think if the pushrod was of the wrong length it would not have allowed me to bleed it on the vehicle and drive around for 10 minutes before failing out..
The pushrod feels loose - why I went ahead and ordered another - be able to tell right away - I want to say it was stiffer and did not have as much play.
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