My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread
- Thread starter jdr767
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jdr767
Greenie Member
Guess I'm about 1/2 way-ish. I've probably removed more than needed but I also wanted to re-run some cables and give the previously unexposed or inaccessible areas a good cleaning.
Anyway - I'm to the point of removing the pedal assembly - I remember this being a pain in the dick - but I'm in my garage and not on a parking garage roof this time around.
Having a beer and a snack first.
Anyway - I'm to the point of removing the pedal assembly - I remember this being a pain in the dick - but I'm in my garage and not on a parking garage roof this time around.
Having a beer and a snack first.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Got everything out, got the pedal assembly back up inside and the master cyilinder at least in place in the firewall and the assembly. Still need to get it all back "in" but my back hurt I quit. No joke - I'm getting old or way out of shape. Been following this guide to make sure I wasn't missing anything, excellent write up by the way @2012FailWheelDrive.
I'll post up some pics later but I did not notice any cracks or bends anywhere in the unit I took out. Maybe the combination of new assembly and master will make a difference. Not sure what else after that - get somebody to drive it and see what they say?
Speaking of which my buddy just picked an MS6 here in central Tx, 2003 orange. At least he said it was a 'speed - I couldn't tell from the 2 pics.
I'll post up some pics later but I did not notice any cracks or bends anywhere in the unit I took out. Maybe the combination of new assembly and master will make a difference. Not sure what else after that - get somebody to drive it and see what they say?
Speaking of which my buddy just picked an MS6 here in central Tx, 2003 orange. At least he said it was a 'speed - I couldn't tell from the 2 pics.
They didn't make a speed in 03
jdr767
Greenie Member
He's mistaken then - I was a few beers in when he was texting me, knew they had a short run but couldn't remember the years.
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jdr767
Greenie Member
Mechanicals back in and I have bled everything. Started up and rocked her back and forth a bit before taking a break for lunch.
I'm probably gonna run through the bleed process 1 more time, I've been using the pneumatic pump off my compressor which works great but I'll probably finish up by hand - then a test drive.
I'll worry about the interior after I give it a good scrub.
I'm probably gonna run through the bleed process 1 more time, I've been using the pneumatic pump off my compressor which works great but I'll probably finish up by hand - then a test drive.
I'll worry about the interior after I give it a good scrub.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Ended up driving 100mi today. Everything feels good, can't say for sure if better or not. I want to say "Yes" but it could be placebo effect, knowing I changed things.
I need a new battery cable, white one on the main positive terminal - looks like it got crispy somewhere along the road.
I need a new battery cable, white one on the main positive terminal - looks like it got crispy somewhere along the road.
jdr767
Greenie Member
So after driving for a bit I'm still getting weird issues.
Everything is all fine and well until things start getting hot. Twice I've attempted to back into my driveway and found reverse just wasn't there. Double pumps, shifting around the other gears, rolling forward/backward slightly etc and nada. Turn off engine and start in reverse - no problems. Reverse works and I can shift back out - but not back into. After a cooldown - no issues, all gears go in when you want.
I re-bled everything starting the process manually then hooking up the pneumatic pump to my air compressor. My thinking was after driving the fluid adjusted and I was finding air pockets in the system I did not get out previously, hence the bleed. Happened again after the process so maybe not.
I have not adjusted the shifter cables, they are 10 years old. But I don't think that is my issue based on what I'm seeing. Failing slave cylinder? The one that is on there is fairly new - within the last 5 years. Is there anything 'better' than the OEM red/black bellow one?
Everything is all fine and well until things start getting hot. Twice I've attempted to back into my driveway and found reverse just wasn't there. Double pumps, shifting around the other gears, rolling forward/backward slightly etc and nada. Turn off engine and start in reverse - no problems. Reverse works and I can shift back out - but not back into. After a cooldown - no issues, all gears go in when you want.
I re-bled everything starting the process manually then hooking up the pneumatic pump to my air compressor. My thinking was after driving the fluid adjusted and I was finding air pockets in the system I did not get out previously, hence the bleed. Happened again after the process so maybe not.
I have not adjusted the shifter cables, they are 10 years old. But I don't think that is my issue based on what I'm seeing. Failing slave cylinder? The one that is on there is fairly new - within the last 5 years. Is there anything 'better' than the OEM red/black bellow one?
Honestly sounds like classic slave cylinder could be the master since your slave isn't that old
jdr767
Greenie Member
Its not old really but maybe I'm just lucky like that. Master is brand new - came with the clutch pedal. Ordered a new slave and the hardline - I had issues with the nipple on it in the past and went ahead and got another just in case.
I'll try that first since its the last thing I can think of before taking it somewhere.
jdr767
Greenie Member
New stuff came in.
The only rust on my car was on the slave bolts. Both snapped coming off, I used a torque wrench for everything anymore. One has a good chunk visible, the other bolt is a little shorter.
Was planning on grabbing my buddy's welder anyways for the bolt that broke on the motorcycle - guess I'll be getting it sooner rather than later. Just irritated...the only 2 bolts required in the whole operation.
** edit**
Called him up and luckily he's also my boss and it's a read only Friday - I'll probably have to make my GF to work in her car, drive up to his house and then swing by Mazda or Ford and pick up new bolts.
I've never welded anything before in my life. Testing in production is normal right? No - I'll do a couple tests first.
The only rust on my car was on the slave bolts. Both snapped coming off, I used a torque wrench for everything anymore. One has a good chunk visible, the other bolt is a little shorter.
Was planning on grabbing my buddy's welder anyways for the bolt that broke on the motorcycle - guess I'll be getting it sooner rather than later. Just irritated...the only 2 bolts required in the whole operation.
** edit**
Called him up and luckily he's also my boss and it's a read only Friday - I'll probably have to make my GF to work in her car, drive up to his house and then swing by Mazda or Ford and pick up new bolts.
I've never welded anything before in my life. Testing in production is normal right? No - I'll do a couple tests first.
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jdr767
Greenie Member
Here's what I'm working with - it could be a lot worse. Starting to wonder if I didn't use my torque and just cranked the shit out of them last time and called it.
Picked up the welder and all the shit that goes with it. Once it cools off some I'll go out play with some test welds first. I figure if I can get a nut over the broken part - tack the nut to the broken part filling the inside and then back her out after a cool down and PB Blast.
Got 1 bolt for sure from local Mazda - guy went back and pulled a similar bolt - only difference is this one is not threaded the entire length, only the bottom half. There is another Mazda dealer near by I'll hit up tomorrow and see what they have on hand.
Picked up the welder and all the shit that goes with it. Once it cools off some I'll go out play with some test welds first. I figure if I can get a nut over the broken part - tack the nut to the broken part filling the inside and then back her out after a cool down and PB Blast.
Got 1 bolt for sure from local Mazda - guy went back and pulled a similar bolt - only difference is this one is not threaded the entire length, only the bottom half. There is another Mazda dealer near by I'll hit up tomorrow and see what they have on hand.
jdr767
Greenie Member
Tested some welds duplicating what I need to do.
I'm really bad but as long as I don't set myself on fire and can angle the tip where I need it I'll balls up and do it here in a minute. Still need to get that slave out of the way and disconnect my battery+ECU...just in case.
I'm really bad but as long as I don't set myself on fire and can angle the tip where I need it I'll balls up and do it here in a minute. Still need to get that slave out of the way and disconnect my battery+ECU...just in case.
Are you using a small wire? I found that a smaller gauge allows for better penetration into the metal and makes it easier to build up around the stuck bolt in the gap between the nut/bolt
jdr767
Greenie Member
Good thought - no idea. So I'm using what was in the spooler, I believe its .03 and is silver. I have a spool of copper colored .025. Day 3 of teaching myself to weld in production, lol. Much trial and error so far.
I think I did not have the heat high enough in some of my tests and what I did on the one that is still stuck. Everything was spalling out but not really sticking. I increased the power and the welds look like they are meting better. Got another nut on there and letting it cool before I try backing it out again.
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