Sharks != BigSC fo sure fo sure.
The cheapest I've seen a used 6th port kit was 600? from one of the bookface groups. Pretty sure it included injectors too.
Let's keep this thread on topic.
Necessity to clean intake manifold/valves
- Thread starter DubC
- Start date
Sharks != BigSC fo sure fo sure.
The cheapest I've seen a used 6th port kit was 600? from one of the bookface groups. Pretty sure it included injectors too.
Let's keep this thread on topic.
What if you tried taking a big ol' chill pill, Mr. Angry Attitude Man
I'm assembling PI right now. Got the DM spacer for my existing ST mani setup for $250. Used SS wire tuck harness for $100. Injectors for $130. I have never seen an SS controller going for less than like $200-225. I would not personally cheap out on fittings/hose. I also am wondering how little your setup must be spraying if you are on stock itfp, considering that even 5th/6th port setups include an upgrade on that unit (used 6th port goes for like $600-750 on fb, btw. There's a Kozmic kit for sale right now for $650 shipped).
OP is the one who spurred the discussion by asking about ways to mitigate carbon build-up post valve cleaning, so it's not exactly an unrelated topic...but keep being mad because someone questioned the factual accuracy of what you're saying.
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Listen honey, you need to chill. Keep blowing up on threads like you've been doing and nobody is going to want to interact with you being a meanie. Keep this thread on topic, and if you wanna start an argument, take it to the user dispute thread.
To add to the PI discussion a little bit, my PI setup was well over $1k using new, quality parts. Damond spacer, ID1050x Injectors, all Fragola/Russell fittings, Fragola hose, AEM ITFP, FP gauge, etc. The spacer and SS controller alone cost me almost $600.
Moral or the story is just because someone has a different way of doing something than you, they're not a moron. Take your insults and negativity to another thread if that's what you wanna keep doing. Stop being a cock.
DubC
Greenie N00B Member
Fixed it for you
I really didn’t intend or want my initial question to spark an argument or pissing match.
Looks like I’ll keep my sweet ‘specialized’ tube-in-vac-extension tool for another 20-30k cleaning.
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Fixed it for you
I really didn’t intend or want my initial question to spark an argument or pissing match.
Looks like I’ll keep my sweet ‘specialized’ tube-in-vac-extension tool for another 20-30k cleaning.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's a forum, there's always that one guy.
If you want clean valves to last, EGR delete, OCC, and spray 100% meth. Methanol is the biggest key in keeping em sparkly. Besides that, it just comes with owning direct Injection
Chemical based cleaners will not work .People have tried it to no avail. You'll eventually have to go back in and clean it if you're not taking the mentioned steps. I just don't want you wasting your money on that stuff and be disappointed
I would actually be curious to see results of someone running some of the CCR or similar spray through the system on a regimented schedule after having done a full valve cleaning. It won't do much good at all as far as cleaning off existing baked on build-up, but would it show any efficacy in slowing down how quickly fresh build-up occurs?
I’m surprised people are still walnut blasting their valves. I removed 90% of the gunk in mine by scraping with picks. Maybe my compressor is just garbage? It’s 125lb max that I borrowed from a friend. What I did like about the walnut blasting is that it white lined things that needed to be picked off.
TBH, I wouldn’t recommend doing this job if you’re wanting to grab some performance and instead doing it for the sake of maintenance. At 99k miles, I saw some improvements but not enough to warrant me doing it again or paying someone to do it. If you’re racing your car then yeah, go do it. If just a simple daily, it’s not super important like VVT. While I was there, I also got my injectors cleaned and threw on some Overspeed Motorsports seals. The seals, injector cleaning and AP TIG gasket were what I was really after when I got the chance to do this job.
TBH, I wouldn’t recommend doing this job if you’re wanting to grab some performance and instead doing it for the sake of maintenance. At 99k miles, I saw some improvements but not enough to warrant me doing it again or paying someone to do it. If you’re racing your car then yeah, go do it. If just a simple daily, it’s not super important like VVT. While I was there, I also got my injectors cleaned and threw on some Overspeed Motorsports seals. The seals, injector cleaning and AP TIG gasket were what I was really after when I got the chance to do this job.
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Me? I used fine. I thought everyone used fine?
My gun always stops up and even with an inline filter right before the gun it had condensation coming out. I tried using it to blast my car parts before painting lol
if you are getting moisture out of the line you need to drain the water from the compressor tank.
I have and it just kept happening l. Maybe let it sit empty after draining for a day or two with the valve open?
DubC
Greenie N00B Member
Anytime I’m done with my compressor and drain the air I leave that valve open until I use the compressor again. Just close it before you turn it on. I’ve never had an issue.
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macdiesel
Greenie N00B Member
In the picture the media looks like powder. Looks finer than fine.
Yeah im probably guilty of that considering I don’t empty it every time for sure. I’ll start trying it your way man thanks!!!
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It’s fine. I don’t believe you can get anything smaller than fine. The pics are before and after the cleaning. I didn’t label them as such.
