O2 sensor codes

Mazdasweed34

Mazdasweed34

Greenie N00B Member
Year/Make/Model: 2009 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
Mileage: 87,000
Location: Colorado
Concern: Check engine light, nothing seems to be affected to the car while driving from what i can tell. Gas mileage is lower than normal.
DTC's: P0134 O2 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor 1, P2246 O2 reference voltage circuit high bank 1 sensor 1, P0032 HO2S Heater control circuit high bank 1 sensor 1
Modifications
JBR cold air intake, HPFP, front mount interior cooler, catless down pipe turbo back exhaust (seems to be custom bought it on the car), bc racing coil overs, diamond motor sports motor mounts
ECU/Tuning Software: It has a tune that was from the previous owner that was left on it but i just got a Cobb and am going to get it tuned again soon.
Tuner: not sure
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern?yes
Recent Repairs: O2 sensor on bank 1 sensor 1
Correction:

Hey I need some help with a couple check engine codes that I currently have on my 2009 Mazdaspeed 3 with 87,000 miles. About a week ago my check engine light came on and had the codes P0134, P2246, P0032. I cleared them and they came back. From my research I thought it may be a bad O2 sensor so I got a replacement (NTK). After I installed it and reset the codes they came back once again.

Not sure really where to go from here. I have looked at the fuses they all seem to be in order. I have also looked at the connections and cables they seem to be fine but not for sure. Also i have heard to use a multi meter to look at the volts and the continuity but I am not sure how to go about that.

If anyone has ideas that would be great or a way to go about diagnosing it. I have a OBD reader that can read live data not sure if that would be helpful or not. Thanks
 
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Awafrican said:
I believe you're correct, NTK is oem which is what OP used
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It says on edge auto sport that they are an OE replacement. So doesn’t that mean it should work? Or do I need to get the actual OEM labeled sensor?.

Also something else that happened this morning is that my battery was drained and I had to jump it so I asume something is drawing power somewhere. No sure where how to check where from though?
 
Mazdasweed34 said:
It says on edge auto sport that they are an OE replacement. So doesn’t that mean it should work? Or do I need to get the actual OEM labeled sensor?.

Also something else that happened this morning is that my battery was drained and I had to jump it so I asume something is drawing power somewhere. No sure where how to check where from though?
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some good info on how to diagnose electrical here https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-thread.12295/
 
I can confirm NTK is the OEM manufacturer and they work as expected. Both of my O2s have been replaced with NTK units.
 
Awafrican said:
some good info on how to diagnose electrical here https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-thread.12295/
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Took it too Mazda dealer yesterday and they did not really find much one reason being it has too many modifications for them to do much for me, not to surprised.

Figured out that the no starts were just because coincidentally my battery went bad. So got that replaced.

Decided to do a compression test today with the results being:
Cylinder one 115
Cylinder 2 118
Cylinder 3 120
Cylinder 4 120
They are all roughly the same but ik that they are supposed to be around 180 so not sure why i have low comprehension. I did use a autozone compression tester and the engine wasn’t fully at operating temp not sure if those 2 things could be affecting it.

But I am wondering if these things could be showing up because it needs a new tune. I bought the car with a tune on it but access port because the person before that keept it. So now I have a new access port and would like to get it retuned, it asks if I want to delete the old one which I am fine with. But I know when you install a new access port it downloads the factory tune as well. If I install my new access port does that mean I will have no OEM tune to revert back to?
 
So your compression numbers are NOT good at all. I believe the factory service manual specs 130 psi as the lowest acceptable value. That being said your results are well below that which is indicative of your motor being toast.

I would get a known good compression test and get a leakdown test done before you spend another dime on this car. A new tune will NOT fix this!

Unless you are prepared to spend $10k when it's all said and done. I'm speaking from experience I did everything backwards!
 
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Mtnbker3531 said:
So your compression numbers are NOT good at all. I believe the factory service manual specs 130 psi as the lowest acceptable value. That being said your results are well below that which is indictive of your motor being toast.

I would get a known good compression test and get a leakdown test done before you spend another dime on this car. A new tune will NOT fix this!

Unless you are prepared to spend $10k when it's all said and done. I'm speaking from experience I did everything backwards!
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Ok, you think it would be best to have a shop do it? Or should I try to preform these tests my slef?
 
Depends what a shop will charge and if you have one you trust.

A decent leak down testor will cost at least $100 if not more. Also a leak down test can be tricky and if everything isn't sitting just right you can get some inaccurate results.

As far as compression the one you have may be fine I'd just be curious to see what another gauge tells you. The leakdown test will give you a better picture of what you are dealing with than just a compression test.

How much oil does it use?
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
Depends what a shop will charge and if you have one you trust.

A decent leak down testor will cost at least $100 if not more. Also a leak down test can be tricky and if everything isn't sitting just right you can get some inaccurate results.

As far as compression the one you have may be fine I'd just be curious to see what another gauge tells you. The leakdown test will give you a better picture of what you are dealing with than just a compression test.

How much oil does it use?
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I would say like after like 2,000 miles it was at half way between the dots on the dip stick.

you think it could my valves because i am assuming they have not been cleaned and it is at 87,000
 
To echo what Awa said, I highly doubt it's dirty valves causing your poor compression results. It's either an inaccurate compression tester or you have some serious wear issues with that motor.

As we both mentioned you NEED to get an accurate leakdown test performed to determine the health of the engine and what the potential issues are.

I have a feeling whoever owned this car before you didn't take care of it as well as they should have and now you are finding out the hard way.
 
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